ZDDP levels on all API oils have slowly been reduced over the years and to put back what has been taken out I recommend GM E.O.S avalible at you local GM dealer. It is not thick like a lot of oil ads out there and a little goes a long way, one ounce per quart is all you need. Here is a VOA. Dan http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=11;t=000243#000000
Using Synthetic oil. Any additives needed?
- Thread starter Leo
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I feel that if one uses good synthetic oil, no additives are needed.
However, I bought some NAPA syn on sale for $2 qt. and its add pack is rather weak, so I got some of the Valvoline Syn additive on closeout that I'll add to the NAPA (valvoline). I think it'll be ok for 6 mos. or 6k.
Have any of U heard of or used.
Tufoil?
www.tufoil.com
Had a fella come to my office, today trying to sell me a few bottles.
Tufoil?
www.tufoil.com
Had a fella come to my office, today trying to sell me a few bottles.
Just run a name brand synthetic...leave the "snake oil" for cars that are, uh, driven by snakes...
darrell
sin city
darrell
sin city
Sure its good stuff...i dont argue that...but you dont need it if you are running a name brand synthetic oil....
My dad, and probably yours too, ran dino oil and, in all probability, a fram oil filter...and they got over 100,000 miles from their vehicles...as time has went by engines are putting out more and more power and oil has made huge jumps in performance....we arent using the oil our dads used...nor are we driving the engines of our fathers....huge strides have been made...but at what point does the improvements matter...
Few people "push" their oil to the limits...its much like two hitters bangin out a home run...one goes WAY over the fence, 475 feet! The other barely clears the 408 foot fence by going 410 feet. It doesn't matter...both accomplish the same thing...both are free tickets around the bases...
Same thing with oil...yeah, add the brand XWTB SynPower Super Duper...YES, ITS GOOD STUFF....but its like adding the distance to the shorter of the two home runs...yes, it goes farther, but in all reality, it doesnt matter...both get the job done.
The difference is cost...the additive cost money. If money isnt important to you or you have so much of it, its of no consequences, fine, spend away....but for all intents and purposes, the guy just buying name brand synthetic is getting more than enough protection cheaper than you are...
Again...Just IMHO, YMMV...and obviously yours does...
darrell
sin city
I'd recommend an SAE xw-30 or 5w-40/10w-40 formulation that meets VW 502.00 and/or VW 503.00 for gas engines and ACEA B4/B5 and/or VW 506.00 for TDI diesel engines.
Meeting the B4/B5 or VW 506.00 specifications requires significantly better detergency than simply meeting the generic ACEA A3 spec - this helps maintain engine cleanliness over long service intervals.
Meeting the "LongLife" (30,000 km/2 yr service interval), VW 503.00 specs requires a significantly more robust formulation than simply meeting ACEA A3....
I agree 100% with Ken2 about the wisdom of using oil additives....I don't use them or recommend them to my customers. It simply "muddies the waters" and makes it impossible to determine how the host oil is performing.
I do highly recommend the ester based, "AutoRX" as a safe and very effective engine flush (based strictly on testing in my personal vehicles over the past several years).
Tooslick
Meeting the B4/B5 or VW 506.00 specifications requires significantly better detergency than simply meeting the generic ACEA A3 spec - this helps maintain engine cleanliness over long service intervals.
Meeting the "LongLife" (30,000 km/2 yr service interval), VW 503.00 specs requires a significantly more robust formulation than simply meeting ACEA A3....
I agree 100% with Ken2 about the wisdom of using oil additives....I don't use them or recommend them to my customers. It simply "muddies the waters" and makes it impossible to determine how the host oil is performing.
I do highly recommend the ester based, "AutoRX" as a safe and very effective engine flush (based strictly on testing in my personal vehicles over the past several years).
Tooslick
Me too, but this site is addictive.
One of the best reasons to use Synpower Oil Treatment is if your engine prefers a somewhat thicker oil than the standard 10w30, but you don't really want to go to 10w40. Of course you could just mix in a quart of 10w40 with the rest 10w30, but in some cases that is impossible (Pennzoil Platinum for example unless you can get their Euro version which has a 40 weight).
But the Synpower stuff could be used to boost the additives in these new SM oils where some things are weakened, like zddp.
But the Synpower stuff could be used to boost the additives in these new SM oils where some things are weakened, like zddp.
Why not just run a heavy 30 weight, like GC...? What makes you think the zddp level is low? How much is enough...and what do you base that figure on?
Just curious,
darrell
sin city
Most of Euro 5W40s are A3/B3/B4, I don't know any 10W40 that meets VW 503.00 or 506.00 in the common euro brands.
How can a B5 oil be also B4 ?
B5 require 2,9 to 3,5cSt viscosity at 150°C, B4 requires at least 3,5cSt at 150°C
A3/B3 oils can be MB 229.3 and BMW LL (as well as VW 502.00 and 505.00) compliant.
Yes, the GC would work, or Citgo Ultralife is thicker too. I noted "some things are weakened, like zddp." The zddp levels are definitely lowered ("weakened"?) compared to previous S- designations. I probably should have stated that likely other additives are being increased to compensate, like the 300 ppm moly in the SM Maxlife.
What’s the difference between LC and SynPower? They both claim to have anti-oxidants and detergents.
I’d argue that a good quality oil has enough of both already. The makers of the additives will no doubt say that they do not.
The vast majority of cars go 100,000+ without this stuff. Hondas, Toyotas, etc, can go 200,000 with nothing but regular oil changes.
The makers of LC say you can extend oil changes to 10,000 miles with their product, thus saving money. Some manufacturers specify intervals of 15,000 (even with dino oil) without these additives, so you would save money by NOT buying it. M1 EP advertises 15,000 miles without these additives as well. Even most dino oil can go 10,000 miles if not “severe conditions” although I would never do it. It just looks so black by then I have to get rid of it!
I’d argue that a good quality oil has enough of both already. The makers of the additives will no doubt say that they do not.
The vast majority of cars go 100,000+ without this stuff. Hondas, Toyotas, etc, can go 200,000 with nothing but regular oil changes.
The makers of LC say you can extend oil changes to 10,000 miles with their product, thus saving money. Some manufacturers specify intervals of 15,000 (even with dino oil) without these additives, so you would save money by NOT buying it. M1 EP advertises 15,000 miles without these additives as well. Even most dino oil can go 10,000 miles if not “severe conditions” although I would never do it. It just looks so black by then I have to get rid of it!
I don't know how well most dino oil would do at 15,000 miles. Please post sources, most manufactorers that recomend 10,000 mile or more OCIs have a more strict oil requirement.
LC will make the oil last longer, not to a specified interval.
-T
I agree with kang, in that, it's cheaper NOT to use the additives. Motors run 200,000 frequently now...with no "lubrication" issues.
I think we tend to fall for the marketing hype and our "butt dyno". We want to do what is "best" for our engine...and we just "know" it has to help...but, imho, oils have what we "need" in them now...sure, you can add things..but are you really gaining anything? Much like the home run that is hit 485 feet...and the next guy hits one 401 feet, barely clearing the fence...is one HR better than the other? Sure one went farther, but both accomplished what was wanted.
Leave the snake oil, for well, vehicles driven by snakes...
just imho, ymmv
darrell
sin city
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Quote:
Leave the snake oil, for well, vehicles driven by snakes...
===============================================
There is snake oil...... then there's LC and Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment.
Leave the snake oil, for well, vehicles driven by snakes...
===============================================
There is snake oil...... then there's LC and Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment.
I can tell you this, I can feel the difference with Synpower. No quesiton. Now is that good or bad or evidence either way? No, but I can tell a difference. My engine likes it.
Perhaps my wifes MiniVan with her driving can do 10K miles with oil but not my car with me driving and definitly not with DINO.
My Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W-30 is worn out after 4K miles. I switched to Penz 5W-40 Euro and added Synpower.
Perhaps my wifes MiniVan with her driving can do 10K miles with oil but not my car with me driving and definitly not with DINO.
My Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W-30 is worn out after 4K miles. I switched to Penz 5W-40 Euro and added Synpower.
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