Got it Friday. Dealer stressed the oil must be change every 3 months or 3k miles to maintain the the 7 year engine waranty.( I tow a trailor on regular basis, plus lots of 10 mile or less trips) I have used Mobil 1 for years but if i do the 3000 miles change is it worth it? Or back to dino oil?
2005 Dodge dakota 4.7 L??
- Thread starter ted s
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It seems like a shame to use Mobil 1 and have to change it every 3,000 miles or 3 months. There are many quality dino oils such as Havoline, Chevron, Motorcraft/Conoco, etc. that should easily provide you all the protection you need, even with towing, during the 3/3,000 OCI. Save your money for some UOA's with the dino when you reach 10,000 miles or more. Is that 3/3,000 OCI requirement in the owner's manual or is the dealer just trying to drum up oil change business
?
Whimsey
Whimsey
What does your actual paperwork say? I don't think what the dealer says verbally is really binding. Chrysler is trying to to do the CYA thing with this engine.
I'd probably run Mobil 1 anyway and just bite the bullet for now. I think over time, they may relax this nonsense.
Send D/C a mean e-mail and see what they say for your situation. I think they had some issues with this engine in hot climates and extended dino drains. I'd whack D/C for a reasonable answer in writing.
I'd probably run Mobil 1 anyway and just bite the bullet for now. I think over time, they may relax this nonsense.
Send D/C a mean e-mail and see what they say for your situation. I think they had some issues with this engine in hot climates and extended dino drains. I'd whack D/C for a reasonable answer in writing.
I would guess that towing would be construed by the owner's manual as "severe" service and the 3 mo./3,000 mile OCI would be applicable. Better to be safe than screwed while the motor's on Chrysler's nickel.
The 3K-3month recommended OCI is probably assuming the lowest common denominator dino oil. But since they don't make allowances for a syn that could go further-longer, and you want to keep the warranty in force, I'd use something that meets the Ford WSS-M2C929-A/WSS-M2C930-A spec like Motorcraft 5w20/5w30 which you can find at Walmart for $1.42/qt.
My parents have a 2004 Jeep 4.7L with the same warranty and the dealer recommended 3,000 mile changes to avoid warranty issues. I use Pennzoil 5W-30 and a Napa filter and keep all receipts.
Forget about everyones dino recommendations, everyones so eager to please.
With all respects, your not going to have an engine oil related failure, and if you have a tranny failure, or an altenator failure within your warr period, i dont think anyone from dodge is going to test your oil. So practice your extended drains!!
Dont make a big deal out of nothing.
With all respects, your not going to have an engine oil related failure, and if you have a tranny failure, or an altenator failure within your warr period, i dont think anyone from dodge is going to test your oil. So practice your extended drains!!
Dont make a big deal out of nothing.
I have a 4.7 in my ram 1500 and love it. Ran Valvoline all my life but switched to M1 5/30 just to see if I can get to the 7500 miles service "normal". If you do 3k use a good dino of choice. As long as you use a SL/SM GF-4 rated dino you can't go wrong. If you use M1 try 5/6k chagnes and be happy. It's a strong little motor.
Since you have indicated that you fall under the 3K /3 mo. interval, a good dino like Motorcraft or Havoline will serve you very well. A synthetic will not give you much more perfromance than dino in that short of an interval, certainly not worth the much higher price.
Keep the receipt's. We all know a warrenty is based on what the owners manual and or warrenty supplemental says. I would like to know why some dealers become anal about warrenty work sometimes. I mean, do they loose out sometimes or what?
I would pick up some Lube Control to use with it. I would use a quality GF4 10W30. After it has been in the engine for 1500 miles they would never be able to tell if it started life as a 5W30 or 10W30!
If you decide to go with 5W30 still use a good GF4 oil. I would mix up some of Malkule's Brew wich ios a blend of Schaffers 132 and Lube Control. The 132 will thicken the oil up and the lube control will keep the engine clean! This combination is much cheaper then you synthetic oil change would be and will go a long way to extending the engines life.
The 4.7 is an excellent engine! I owned a 2001 SLT+ QC 4x4 Dak and loved it!
If you decide to go with 5W30 still use a good GF4 oil. I would mix up some of Malkule's Brew wich ios a blend of Schaffers 132 and Lube Control. The 132 will thicken the oil up and the lube control will keep the engine clean! This combination is much cheaper then you synthetic oil change would be and will go a long way to extending the engines life.
The 4.7 is an excellent engine! I owned a 2001 SLT+ QC 4x4 Dak and loved it!
I am on my second Durango. The first was a 2K 4.7 4x4. I had 130K on it and it ran like new. ALL M1 5 or 10 w30 done at 5000 miles religiously. On my 2003 4.7 I am following the same schedule. My manual says 7500 mile oil changes. I will keep it at 5000 to be safe. The oil still looks good after 5000 but I have the extended warranty so I will keep it there.
manicrodder
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I just traded my Neon on a Pt cruiser. The manual on the Neon and on the PT Both say 3000 miles/3 months for "B" schedule. The "A" schedule is 6000/6 months for the Neon and the standard PT. I bet yours says the same. "A" schedule for my PT is 5000/6 months because it is a turbo. My advice is use synthetic and change according to the "A" schedule as I do. Don't give it another thought unless you car pool with someone from the dealership.
What is going to happen to an engine if you use extended drains that is going to cause the engine to fail in 70,000 miles? If the engine fails under warranty, its because it was built with defective parts, eh? And they can then deny your warrant because you used Mobile1 for 6000 miles? As a father of two friends of mine used to say, in a very unique accent, "horse ****"...and it wasn't horse hair, horse tail, or horse hoof...
my sugestion is exactly what manicrodder said. use the A schedule AND synthetic.
that's exactly what I have been doing on my '99 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 L since I purchased new in 3/99.
my drive to work is 1.5 miles, but who's to say whether schedule A or B is operative, but you, the owner.
you're not going to have anything but a clean crankcase with the Mobil 1
being nuts about car oil/changes, I'm now considering moving to a larger filter for my Jeep, as it appears the Motorcraft FL1A is a perfect fit, but larger- appears it will take me from 6 qts to 6 1/2, but would not be a problem as I change the oil myself on all our family vehicles, m/c, lawn motors, blower, etc.
that's exactly what I have been doing on my '99 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 L since I purchased new in 3/99.
my drive to work is 1.5 miles, but who's to say whether schedule A or B is operative, but you, the owner.
you're not going to have anything but a clean crankcase with the Mobil 1
being nuts about car oil/changes, I'm now considering moving to a larger filter for my Jeep, as it appears the Motorcraft FL1A is a perfect fit, but larger- appears it will take me from 6 qts to 6 1/2, but would not be a problem as I change the oil myself on all our family vehicles, m/c, lawn motors, blower, etc.
the dealer stressed the 3mo/3000 mile changes. he probably wouldnt have said this unless he was going to make a big deal about it in the future.
my warranty is the 8/80. i follow schedule 'b' since most of the driving is stop and go in the city. (also schedule 'a' doesnt seem to change other fluids, like differential and i just like to be consistent). and yes, i am changing the M1 every 3,000 miles. its only about $100/yr more.
my warranty is the 8/80. i follow schedule 'b' since most of the driving is stop and go in the city. (also schedule 'a' doesnt seem to change other fluids, like differential and i just like to be consistent). and yes, i am changing the M1 every 3,000 miles. its only about $100/yr more.
For some piece of mind all of the new Daimler Chrysler engines are validated for 150,000 miles. So they have actualy tested them thorougly to make sure that 70% of the 4.7 and 3.7 will make it to 150,000 miles with out oil consuption issues or performance issues. Now I know that the engine was origanaly spec.'ed for 10W30 as the norm. Before release they reclearanced the oil pump for 5W30. They did not reclearance anything else. I found that my old standby of 15W50 in the warm months and 10W30 in the cold months worked out fine in mine. My Dodge Dealership recomended and sold M1 15W50 and 10W30. They always recomended 15W50 to all the owners of truucks in the warm months.
If you should decide to do the 3000 mile oil change I would not worry about it. A good GF4 oil and LC can take care of just about anything.
P.S. The way I got around the 5W30 for record keeping was as follows. I would buy a case of 5W30 preferably marked with the stores price sticker on it or with the shipping/tracking sticker on it for that store. Then I would return it without the reciept for instore credit. Once I had the instore credit I would buy a case of whatever I really wanted! I hade a reciept that showed 5W30 for my records and I had 15W50 in the engine!
If you should decide to do the 3000 mile oil change I would not worry about it. A good GF4 oil and LC can take care of just about anything.
P.S. The way I got around the 5W30 for record keeping was as follows. I would buy a case of 5W30 preferably marked with the stores price sticker on it or with the shipping/tracking sticker on it for that store. Then I would return it without the reciept for instore credit. Once I had the instore credit I would buy a case of whatever I really wanted! I hade a reciept that showed 5W30 for my records and I had 15W50 in the engine!
JB, that is one slick move.
I just put 0w-40 M1 in my 03 Durango and it runs great. Smooth idle and under power. I think this is going to be my new oil of choice. I have done and will always do 5000 mile OCI's. I won't do anymore 3000 mile changes, especially with my synth's.
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