The engine is an LA 318 with a roller Cam and throttle body injection in a Dodge B250 Fullsize Van with a 3.55 rear and an A500 Overdrive/lockup transmission. OCI's have been yearly or a maximum of 5 k miles, usually less.
Engine Rebuilt, questionably, 34k miles ago.
New Pistons are stamped 040.
Smooth running. Getting maximum expected MPG. Passing Ca Smog tests with room to spare.
Been running M1 10w 40 for the last 4+ years and 16 k miles The M1 silenced 1 to 5 seconds of lifter ticking on start up. VWB and Castrol GTX 10w 40 previous to this. No sludge or varnish issues, at least under the valve covers.
Been using Purolator Classic 30001 filters since first OCI after rebuild. This is an oversized filter compared to what all the parts books list. I do have some some strong magnets I use on it. They seem to collect a lot of ferrous material.
Mostly short trips where the temp gauge does not even reach maximum normal. Usually before parking overnight, it will get to full temp(coolant temp wise) for at least 5 minutes.
I determine full expected engine temperature by seeing the lowest Idle speed oil PSI rather than the coolant temp gauge. 20 to 22 psi is all I can expect at idle, while around town driving. If the oil gets this hot, it does not stay hot for too long.
Occasional longer highway drives account for maybe a maximum 30% of the mileage. Far too much time is spent idling at traffic lights.
Minimum 38 Degrees F, Maximum 90 degrees F Ambient temps. Coastal San Diego.
Current Oil pressures via an Equus mechanical gauge with M1 10 40 HM with 2800 miles on it. The oil is still amber colored.
Cold Idle in (P)ark: 68 PSI oil pressure at 800 rpm. OIL psi never ever reads above this.
Hot Idle in (D)rive: around town driving: 550 rpm-23 psi
Hot Idle right after longer highway drive: 550 rpm-16 psi. Mechanical gauge bounces +/- 2 psi until next red light, then 18 to 20 psi climbing to 23psi depending on ambient temps.
65 mph, level road, ~2100 rpm: 54 PSI +/- 3 psi depending on ambient temp
Max PSI hot, any rpm when accelerating, over 1200 rpm: 63 psi.
Max PSI cold, any rpm: 68 psi.
I am assuming that the oil pump relief valve is set at 68 psi, and that when warm drops to 63 psi. In the 49 weeks since the Last Oil change and 2800 miles, I have added 1/3 quart M1 TDT 5w40.
I've only been visiting BITOG for over a year, but I am thinking since the oil pump bypass PSI is reached at such a relatively low rpm when hot, that my 10w-40 grades of choice, since the rebuild, up to this point, might possibly, be too thick.
Opinions?
I cannot complain about M1's performance in my engine to this point, but I am still a little 'offput' by their insulting Q&A a couple months ago, and am thinking of trying something different.
I do get some valvetrain (spinning camshaft) type noise when I let off the gas but I am apparently the only one who can hear it.
T6 5w 40 has been floating around the background saying "try me!" and then the TDT 5w 40 is trying to say pay 2x as much for me.
I'm not gonna pay boutique oil prices, But with my short trips, I'll pay up to 35$ for 5 quarts for some combination of group 3/4/5 that makes me all warm and fuzzy, and keeps my lifters quiet on start up.
I already have another p/classic 30001 ready for install.
Other possibly relevant information:
I replaced the Camshaft and lifters myself 14k miles after the rebuild, apparently the rebuilders just put new lifters on the old roller cam.
I also replaced the timing chain with a Cloyes while I had it open:
They also used steel freeze plugs, some of which I have already had to replace, so I do question what other corners they cut.
During this OCI, I might decide to leave California, and Tow a sub 2500 lb trailer across the country.
Any recommendations on the oil weight, and brands, that will make both me, and my engine, all warm and fuzzy inside?
Engine Rebuilt, questionably, 34k miles ago.
New Pistons are stamped 040.
Smooth running. Getting maximum expected MPG. Passing Ca Smog tests with room to spare.
Been running M1 10w 40 for the last 4+ years and 16 k miles The M1 silenced 1 to 5 seconds of lifter ticking on start up. VWB and Castrol GTX 10w 40 previous to this. No sludge or varnish issues, at least under the valve covers.
Been using Purolator Classic 30001 filters since first OCI after rebuild. This is an oversized filter compared to what all the parts books list. I do have some some strong magnets I use on it. They seem to collect a lot of ferrous material.
Mostly short trips where the temp gauge does not even reach maximum normal. Usually before parking overnight, it will get to full temp(coolant temp wise) for at least 5 minutes.
I determine full expected engine temperature by seeing the lowest Idle speed oil PSI rather than the coolant temp gauge. 20 to 22 psi is all I can expect at idle, while around town driving. If the oil gets this hot, it does not stay hot for too long.
Occasional longer highway drives account for maybe a maximum 30% of the mileage. Far too much time is spent idling at traffic lights.
Minimum 38 Degrees F, Maximum 90 degrees F Ambient temps. Coastal San Diego.
Current Oil pressures via an Equus mechanical gauge with M1 10 40 HM with 2800 miles on it. The oil is still amber colored.
Cold Idle in (P)ark: 68 PSI oil pressure at 800 rpm. OIL psi never ever reads above this.
Hot Idle in (D)rive: around town driving: 550 rpm-23 psi
Hot Idle right after longer highway drive: 550 rpm-16 psi. Mechanical gauge bounces +/- 2 psi until next red light, then 18 to 20 psi climbing to 23psi depending on ambient temps.
65 mph, level road, ~2100 rpm: 54 PSI +/- 3 psi depending on ambient temp
Max PSI hot, any rpm when accelerating, over 1200 rpm: 63 psi.
Max PSI cold, any rpm: 68 psi.
I am assuming that the oil pump relief valve is set at 68 psi, and that when warm drops to 63 psi. In the 49 weeks since the Last Oil change and 2800 miles, I have added 1/3 quart M1 TDT 5w40.
I've only been visiting BITOG for over a year, but I am thinking since the oil pump bypass PSI is reached at such a relatively low rpm when hot, that my 10w-40 grades of choice, since the rebuild, up to this point, might possibly, be too thick.
Opinions?
I cannot complain about M1's performance in my engine to this point, but I am still a little 'offput' by their insulting Q&A a couple months ago, and am thinking of trying something different.
I do get some valvetrain (spinning camshaft) type noise when I let off the gas but I am apparently the only one who can hear it.
T6 5w 40 has been floating around the background saying "try me!" and then the TDT 5w 40 is trying to say pay 2x as much for me.
I'm not gonna pay boutique oil prices, But with my short trips, I'll pay up to 35$ for 5 quarts for some combination of group 3/4/5 that makes me all warm and fuzzy, and keeps my lifters quiet on start up.
I already have another p/classic 30001 ready for install.
Other possibly relevant information:
I replaced the Camshaft and lifters myself 14k miles after the rebuild, apparently the rebuilders just put new lifters on the old roller cam.
I also replaced the timing chain with a Cloyes while I had it open:
They also used steel freeze plugs, some of which I have already had to replace, so I do question what other corners they cut.
During this OCI, I might decide to leave California, and Tow a sub 2500 lb trailer across the country.
Any recommendations on the oil weight, and brands, that will make both me, and my engine, all warm and fuzzy inside?