Windstar Compression Test

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Originally Posted By: BubbaFL
Originally Posted By: tig1
The only thing I can think of that bent that rod was that #6 hydrauliced from the fluid. I would replace the rod(check the piston for damage) and bearings. If you were close by I would weld repare the heads and have them machined for a song of the price of new heads. I have seen this head problem many times. Coolant gets under the head gasket and pits the alum. Actually an easy fix.


The new heads (from AAP) only cost about $25 more than having the existing heads machined locally.

Amazing that this thing was actually running without knocking right up until I pulled the engine.

Guess it's time to learn how to rebuild the bottom end now.


It wouldn't knock until it was injecting large amounts. My 2v blew a spark plug on the #8 because water doesn't compress but will raise octane. My 2v ran great,awesome power,then one day whammo.
The v8 mod engines have this potential issue and I've seen it in the 4.6 2v, 4.6 4v and now a sixxer.
I'd rather rebuild myself if time wasn't a factor and another car used for a few days.
 
New main and rod bearings, new rings, two new heads, new water pump, one new connecting rod and piston, and replaced every gasket on the engine.

Just about ready to go!

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Time to pick the first fill!

Filter will be a Motorcraft FL400S, unless I have something cheaper laying around. Will run 10 or 20 miles, dump the pan and refill for a normal 3k OCI.

So, what should the first and second fill be?

Choices are:

Advance Auto Parts store brand conventional
NAPA conventional
NAPA synthetic
Maxlife
Synpower
M1
PYB
Formula Shell
Havoline conventional
Motorcraft Syn Blend

All in 5W-30
 
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