GON
$100 Site Donor 2024
A few notes from replacement of the number 2 cylinder ignition coil on a 2015 f350 super duty with a 6.2l gas engine.
Symptom, check engine light on steady, obd shows a misfire but unable to identify which cylinder. If check engine light was flashing, obd would likely have zeroed in on which cylinder.
Diagnosis without knowing which cylinder should be done with a cold engine, and IN THE DARK. Have the hood open, have someone start the engine, and look for a visible tiny spark coming from a coil..that is your failing coil. In my case, once the engine slightly warmed up, the failing coil no longer showed a visible external spark.
Replacement of the coil is fairly easy. On this Ford, the connector to the coil was frozen. Don't force it, I suspect the connector will break easy, and then you will have a additional situation to address. I sprayed dexoit all over the connector, and that broke the red tab free to slide out, and then compress the connector for removal.
Number two coil required slight removal of the intake manifold to remove the coil. No big deal, simply loosen two clamps and the three air filter housing clamps and the manifold gets out of the way enough to remove the coil.
Denso is the Oem for the coil. Picture below clearly shows the burning of the Ford part numbers. These coils from Ford are 80+ USD wholesale, $150+ USD dealer. Buy the denso and save a few dollars for the exact product.
Finally, a lot of locations to use silicon paste on this job. From the coil trunk to the electrical connector release mechanism. I even used the paste on the 8mm lock down bolt, as I could not find my never seize. Of note the eight mm lock down bolt was frustrated during removal from corrosion. I suspect water from the engine hits the top of this.coil in some manner, slowly letting moisture to enter the coil area on this cylinder.
Job took about 30 minutes, less the working in the dark diagnosis, and checking the issue was resolved with the scanner.
Symptom, check engine light on steady, obd shows a misfire but unable to identify which cylinder. If check engine light was flashing, obd would likely have zeroed in on which cylinder.
Diagnosis without knowing which cylinder should be done with a cold engine, and IN THE DARK. Have the hood open, have someone start the engine, and look for a visible tiny spark coming from a coil..that is your failing coil. In my case, once the engine slightly warmed up, the failing coil no longer showed a visible external spark.
Replacement of the coil is fairly easy. On this Ford, the connector to the coil was frozen. Don't force it, I suspect the connector will break easy, and then you will have a additional situation to address. I sprayed dexoit all over the connector, and that broke the red tab free to slide out, and then compress the connector for removal.
Number two coil required slight removal of the intake manifold to remove the coil. No big deal, simply loosen two clamps and the three air filter housing clamps and the manifold gets out of the way enough to remove the coil.
Denso is the Oem for the coil. Picture below clearly shows the burning of the Ford part numbers. These coils from Ford are 80+ USD wholesale, $150+ USD dealer. Buy the denso and save a few dollars for the exact product.
Finally, a lot of locations to use silicon paste on this job. From the coil trunk to the electrical connector release mechanism. I even used the paste on the 8mm lock down bolt, as I could not find my never seize. Of note the eight mm lock down bolt was frustrated during removal from corrosion. I suspect water from the engine hits the top of this.coil in some manner, slowly letting moisture to enter the coil area on this cylinder.
Job took about 30 minutes, less the working in the dark diagnosis, and checking the issue was resolved with the scanner.
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