wife drove 08 Sienna with low oil for 2 days, with loud tapping

SAE30 is 35% higher in viscousity over SAE20. I don't think the difference is trivial
I made that switch - does not show up on my digital gauge - that’s the point of the relationship between parameters that generate system pressure … 1 step up in grade ain’t one …
 
My daughter ran her 2016 Hyundai SantaFe 3.3 V-6 virtually out of oil. She said it made racket for a week. This included interstate driving :oops: .
So I changed what little was there. Used QSUD 5-30 and a can of Liqui Moly additive. Have added that LiquiMoly every oil change since. That was almost two years ago. Now pushing 140K. Run regularly on the Interstate.
So far so good.
Use LiquiMoly every OC.
Which liqui moly additive?
 
I made that switch - does not show up on my digital gauge - that’s the point of the relationship between parameters that generate system pressure … 1 step up in grade ain’t one …
I do agree now that my "20 oil cleansing" idea was just my another 2nd order parameter analysis paralysis moment. However regarding your observation, nothing contrasicts to my 20W = more flow theory. Above certain RPM, pressure is regulated by the relief valve (thus no change in pressure reading). However higher viscousty oil relieves more oil volume back to the pan at the equal pressure.
 
I do agree now that my "20 oil cleansing" idea was just my another 2nd order parameter analysis paralysis moment. However regarding your observation, nothing contrasicts to my 20W = more flow theory. Above certain RPM, pressure is regulated by the relief valve (thus no change in pressure reading). However higher viscousty oil relieves more oil volume back to the pan at the equal pressure.
Maybe a hair more - but with lower MOFT and HTHS that’s not necessarily doing a better job …
 
yep, I was at a buddies house when one of his wife's friend showed up in her Honda minivan, smoke rolling out from under the hood... her comment before she asked my buddy to look at it was " the red light was on but I was able to drive it here"
OMG
 
One girl I knew had a Dodge mini van. She pulled up and while talking to me I noticed the oil light was on. I brought it to her attention and she told me that yeah she knew. Whenever the light comes on she would put some oil in it.
 
One girl I knew had a Dodge mini van. She pulled up and while talking to me I noticed the oil light was on. I brought it to her attention and she told me that yeah she knew. Whenever the light comes on she would put some oil in it.

I know a couple guys that do the same thing... they know that the first time they turn a corner and the oil light comes on its time to add a couple quarts.
 
Now back to the BITOG topic. What oil I should buy??
(1) ST all mileage 5W-30 (10W??) jugs
(2) havoline high mileage blend box 5W30
(3) M1 high mileage 12qt box

Any recommendation for this potentially worn out engine?
Havoline.
Started using on wife's Kia which typically uses a quart every 1000-1500 miles. 500 miles into most recent oil change with no oil loss.
Coincidence? Maybe...but I'll take it
 
So then what good is the low oil pressure detection system, especially when it's that low?
Better than nothing? I agree, it should be higher, but it can't be higher than whatever is spec'd for the least amount of pressure the engine will make, at end of service life. Which may well be just a few psi? at idle, no load, that may be enough.

I'm still surprised that Toyota-Honda-Subaru did not add some way to check oil (other than a dipstick, which requires the nut behind the wheel to do something). Other makes have it. And these brands have taken hard knocks in recent years over excessive consumption. Guessing they have a reason--and I probably would not agree with it, whatever it was.
 
Havoline.
Started using on wife's Kia which typically uses a quart every 1000-1500 miles. 500 miles into most recent oil change with no oil loss.
Coincidence? Maybe...but I'll take it
My 17 Hyundai was using a quart every 1200 miles. Switched to Havoline 10-30 High Mileage and oil dipstick has not moved in 600 miles.
 
Better than nothing? I agree, it should be higher, but it can't be higher than whatever is spec'd for the least amount of pressure the engine will make, at end of service life. Which may well be just a few psi? at idle, no load, that may be enough.

I'm still surprised that Toyota-Honda-Subaru did not add some way to check oil (other than a dipstick, which requires the nut behind the wheel to do something). Other makes have it. And these brands have taken hard knocks in recent years over excessive consumption. Guessing they have a reason--and I probably would not agree with it, whatever it was.
My Subaru now has a low oil level light, and also the low oil pressure light... Every few months I ask my wife what each light means and what's the procedure for each.
The Subaru uses about half a quart in 6-7k miles so its not an issue, but if she gets a little to ambitious off roading and manages to hole the oil pan, she'll stop before new engine time... hopefully!
 
You were lucky!

My daughter punched a hole in the oil pan of her 01 Beetle. She drove it until hearing a noise and seeing smoke out of the rear, which was about 10 minutes.

I patched the oil pan with JB weld and poured in the 15w-40 I had just dumped out of my Jeep YJ and drove the car around. The oil light would come on after 15 minutes of running.

The rod bearings had been wiped out. I replaced them and ended up selling the car a year later when electrical gremlins took it out. I wish I had junked it, but it was 2021 at the peak of used car pricing stupidity.
 
95% of people don't know what to do, or care when a light on the dash comes on. My wife drove for a week with the oil light on. She didn't know what it was but figured it would blink or beep if it was bad so she kept driving..... (n)
 
95% of people don't know what to do, or care when a light on the dash comes on. My wife drove for a week with the oil light on. She didn't know what it was but figured it would blink or beep if it was bad so she kept driving..... (n)
Beeping doesn't work either, friend of ours bought a car, didn't know why it was beeping at her... right before she backed into a car.
 
I was in the Safari driving down I-580 in Livermore when the van started beeping something obnoxious. "What the heck is that??"

Quick scan of the gauges showed no odd readings or malfunctions.

I was doing the old dude thing and driving with the turn signal on. I never knew the van had such a warning.
 
My Subaru now has a low oil level light, and also the low oil pressure light... Every few months I ask my wife what each light means and what's the procedure for each.
The Subaru uses about half a quart in 6-7k miles so its not an issue, but if she gets a little to ambitious off roading and manages to hole the oil pan, she'll stop before new engine time... hopefully!
My 05 Silverado has the low oil level warning and a real oil pressure gauge, or used to. Since the last couple months it tells me it's low on oil at every startup (even though it's full) and the oil pressure is pegged at 135psi. I've got a new sender to go in hopefully before it gets to the point of reading 0psi which will cause it to ding at me while I'm driving.
 
My 05 Silverado has the low oil level warning and a real oil pressure gauge, or used to. Since the last couple months it tells me it's low on oil at every startup (even though it's full) and the oil pressure is pegged at 135psi. I've got a new sender to go in hopefully before it gets to the point of reading 0psi which will cause it to ding at me while I'm driving.
Hopefully it's not the cluster itself, I have the one out of my 04 Sierra for repair at the moment for the language scrolling issue and have already replaced the stepper motors as well.
 
Hopefully it's not the cluster itself, I have the one out of my 04 Sierra for repair at the moment for the language scrolling issue and have already replaced the stepper motors as well.
It's need a cluster but that's a separate issue. Only gauges still working are fuel and oil pressure, but oil pressure is at max because the sender recently failed. Torque pro reads as 134.9psi all the time. And the low oil warning is likely the level sensor although I can't confirm that. I would have had it fixed already but I need it every day for work and have to take a picture of my mileage daily for my reimbursement. It's just about to turn over to 400,000kms also and I don't want to change it to a cluster with different odometer and hours on it.
 
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