whats the best product to keep gas fresh?
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Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: Chris142
tru fuel
In you're having such difficulty with "can gas", the best alternative I can offer is 100LL @ KAPV -- $5.45 self-service. With the exception of lead on the valves of low compression engines, it's perfectly acceptable.
wont leaded gas plug up the carb approved catalytic converters in my ca only ope equipment?
Originally Posted By: Chris142
tru fuel
In you're having such difficulty with "can gas", the best alternative I can offer is 100LL @ KAPV -- $5.45 self-service. With the exception of lead on the valves of low compression engines, it's perfectly acceptable.
wont leaded gas plug up the carb approved catalytic converters in my ca only ope equipment?
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: Chris142
tru fuel
In you're having such difficulty with "can gas", the best alternative I can offer is 100LL @ KAPV -- $5.45 self-service. With the exception of lead on the valves of low compression engines, it's perfectly acceptable.
wont leaded gas plug up the carb approved catalytic converters in my ca only ope equipment?
If you have cats on your OPE then yes it will clog them. I've never heard of cats on OPE. I guess CA is REALLY strict on all emission sources.
Whimsey
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: Chris142
tru fuel
In you're having such difficulty with "can gas", the best alternative I can offer is 100LL @ KAPV -- $5.45 self-service. With the exception of lead on the valves of low compression engines, it's perfectly acceptable.
wont leaded gas plug up the carb approved catalytic converters in my ca only ope equipment?
If you have cats on your OPE then yes it will clog them. I've never heard of cats on OPE. I guess CA is REALLY strict on all emission sources.
Whimsey
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: Chris142
tru fuel
In you're having such difficulty with "can gas", the best alternative I can offer is 100LL @ KAPV -- $5.45 self-service. With the exception of lead on the valves of low compression engines, it's perfectly acceptable.
ABSOLUTELY!
100LL Avgas never goes bad. And it's often reasonably priced. I use the stuff all the time.
Originally Posted By: Chris142
tru fuel
In you're having such difficulty with "can gas", the best alternative I can offer is 100LL @ KAPV -- $5.45 self-service. With the exception of lead on the valves of low compression engines, it's perfectly acceptable.
ABSOLUTELY!
100LL Avgas never goes bad. And it's often reasonably priced. I use the stuff all the time.
Originally Posted By: Chris142
wont leaded gas plug up the carb approved catalytic converters in my ca only ope equipment? [/quote]
I have some "cat" equipped machinery. The 100LL will coat the cat, but it will not clog the cat. Interestingly, 100LL is now (quite often but not always) 100VLL, (very low lead)
I have a genset with a cat and the cat clearly still functions (turns red under load) with 100LL. Smells clean too.
wont leaded gas plug up the carb approved catalytic converters in my ca only ope equipment? [/quote]
I have some "cat" equipped machinery. The 100LL will coat the cat, but it will not clog the cat. Interestingly, 100LL is now (quite often but not always) 100VLL, (very low lead)
I have a genset with a cat and the cat clearly still functions (turns red under load) with 100LL. Smells clean too.
I've used FP60, 1 oz to 5 gal, and I'm still able to use 1 year old stored gas without any problems in my OPE. Though after a year I generally dump it into my truck to play it safe. Our gas here in NJ is all E10. My gas is stored in those red plastic "safety" gas cans.
Whimsey
Whimsey
To be honest, you are expecting too much out of your gas. Rotate it through your cars gas tank after 60-90 days. Fuel is STALE at 90 days.
Star-tron fuel stabilizer is the real deal. A double dose of Stabil also works good.
Star-tron fuel stabilizer is the real deal. A double dose of Stabil also works good.
Originally Posted By: SwedishRider
I use and really like No-Spill gas cans. I have the 1.25 gal, 2.5 gal, and 5 gal cans. All of them work great!
+1
I use and really like No-Spill gas cans. I have the 1.25 gal, 2.5 gal, and 5 gal cans. All of them work great!
+1
I've used Sta-bil and had ok luck. I never tried to get 2 years out of it, so I can't say it's real long term viability.
This past summer I started using a new Fuel conditionaer andstabilizer from Briggs & Stratton and so far it works great. It's only been a few months, but everything starts right up when I try it, so we'll see.
This past summer I started using a new Fuel conditionaer andstabilizer from Briggs & Stratton and so far it works great. It's only been a few months, but everything starts right up when I try it, so we'll see.
Originally Posted By: TLAR640
Originally Posted By: SwedishRider
I use and really like No-Spill gas cans. I have the 1.25 gal, 2.5 gal, and 5 gal cans. All of them work great!
+1
+2.
Those cans are the best, no twist or other weird stuff.
I have 2 1.25 gallon ones. 1 for my 2 stroke mix and the other for my OPE. I don't need a bigger jug as I like going through it and always having a fresh supply instead of buying 5 gallons at a time. I do does each jug with some Stabil and haven't had a problem. I've heard star-tron works better and will be using that next time.
Originally Posted By: SwedishRider
I use and really like No-Spill gas cans. I have the 1.25 gal, 2.5 gal, and 5 gal cans. All of them work great!
+1
+2.
Those cans are the best, no twist or other weird stuff.
I have 2 1.25 gallon ones. 1 for my 2 stroke mix and the other for my OPE. I don't need a bigger jug as I like going through it and always having a fresh supply instead of buying 5 gallons at a time. I do does each jug with some Stabil and haven't had a problem. I've heard star-tron works better and will be using that next time.
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
To be honest, you are expecting too much out of your gas. Rotate it through your cars gas tank after 60-90 days. Fuel is STALE at 90 days.
Star-tron fuel stabilizer is the real deal. A double dose of Stabil also works good.
^^^^This...Or just figure how much you'll need for a month and buy that amount. I usually buy a gallons worth at a time.
To be honest, you are expecting too much out of your gas. Rotate it through your cars gas tank after 60-90 days. Fuel is STALE at 90 days.
Star-tron fuel stabilizer is the real deal. A double dose of Stabil also works good.
^^^^This...Or just figure how much you'll need for a month and buy that amount. I usually buy a gallons worth at a time.
I've tried Star-Tron, StaBil and MMO. None of them do much for fuel life here in the heat. Sorry, but better fuel is the only answer I've found.
3 things to observe RE: fuel storage.
1) thermal fluctuations in storage area: gas doesn't like high temperature (accelerates it's decomposition). It's best to keep stored gas in cool, dry, low temp fluctuation area.
2) modern ethanol-enriched gas does not like to have water in it right from the beginning. Some gas stations may have water in their tank and/or other moisture-related issues...see if you can buy gas from a station that is known (identified) to have very little water in the gas, preferably nil.
3) rotate the stored gas on a regular basis. In Nor Cal, I'd rotate the gas every 30 days (doped with stabilisers) and then go from there.
Sorry, gasoline is no longer what it used to be (I agree) in terms of overall stability. The only way to overcome this is to set a rotation regimen and perform such task every 30 days or so (more frequently if 1), 2) are problems).
I just bought a supposedly strong fuel stabiliser by B&S , and will start trying it starting this mowing year... (and pressure washer as summer comes along)
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/shop/why-genuine-parts/fuel-treatment
Q.
1) thermal fluctuations in storage area: gas doesn't like high temperature (accelerates it's decomposition). It's best to keep stored gas in cool, dry, low temp fluctuation area.
2) modern ethanol-enriched gas does not like to have water in it right from the beginning. Some gas stations may have water in their tank and/or other moisture-related issues...see if you can buy gas from a station that is known (identified) to have very little water in the gas, preferably nil.
3) rotate the stored gas on a regular basis. In Nor Cal, I'd rotate the gas every 30 days (doped with stabilisers) and then go from there.
Sorry, gasoline is no longer what it used to be (I agree) in terms of overall stability. The only way to overcome this is to set a rotation regimen and perform such task every 30 days or so (more frequently if 1), 2) are problems).
I just bought a supposedly strong fuel stabiliser by B&S , and will start trying it starting this mowing year... (and pressure washer as summer comes along)
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/shop/why-genuine-parts/fuel-treatment
Q.
Or just purchase Avgas 100LL, or VP-C9 and let it sit (sealed of course) 10 years without worry.
Cujet>>> can you advise where to purchase the LL100 in your area?
I have a house in Jensen and not having to fight the battle in OPE when we come down would be worth the short trip
Steve
I have a house in Jensen and not having to fight the battle in OPE when we come down would be worth the short trip
Steve
Originally Posted By: Woody71
I use only Shell gas from a station with heavy traffic. Add SeaFoam to all my OPE fuel storage containers during fill up. Store all my OPE wet and haven't had any fuel/carb related problems.
I follow the same process, SeaFoam has worked great for me!
I use only Shell gas from a station with heavy traffic. Add SeaFoam to all my OPE fuel storage containers during fill up. Store all my OPE wet and haven't had any fuel/carb related problems.
I follow the same process, SeaFoam has worked great for me!
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