What's the best Fre Flowing DRY flat filter

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I have an 08 Ram Hemi 5.7L and a 92 Bronco 4.9L that I am interested in getting better filtration and more air flow with. Both vehicles have essentially factory CAI's installed so I want a better filet for their boxes. I have an AirAid CAI for the Hemi and just recently reinstalled the factory intake and noticed no difference between power and fuel economy. I really could care less about the loud noise from the CAI. I like quiet power.

Anyway, I currently have a K&N filter in my stock Hemi but was wondering about the other dry free flowing filters.

Which ones flow best?
Which ones Filter Best?
Who has the best compromise between filter/flow
I'm looking for a reusable dry filter.

Thank you for your input. I appreciate it.
 
Pretty much the stock filter is all you need and is hard to beat. The K@N is a racing type filter not usually the best for long engine life .
 
I read here a member tried several filters in a GM passenger vehicle because silicone read high in his UOA's. He found the STP air filter was the only one that worked in his application, so STP is the only brand I buy.
 
The most important thing to look for is that the filter seals to the housing well. If it doesn't form a good seal it isn't doing its job.

I'd use either OEM or Purolator (not the PureOne air filters, as they are lightly oiled).
 
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I have an AirAid CAI for the Hemi and just recently reinstalled the factory intake and noticed no difference between power and fuel economy.
No surprise there.
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He found the STP air filter was the only one that worked in his application, so STP is the only brand I buy.
And, of course, the STP air filter is just some company's standard filter in an STP box...the real question is which company and which line of filters.
 
I've usually been happy with Fram air filters. In the applications I've used before, the seals were nice and thick and usually work well. I think the OEM filter on my former Mopars was Fram, based on seal color and filter construction.

On my Honda and Toyota cars, I use the OEM filter, usually made by Denso. They're available from the dealership for a reasonable price and the quality and construction is a known quantity.
 
So I should just stick with the plain paper filters from the local parts store? I would have thought there' was some benefit of using a free flow type filter.
 
John, the only way you will gain any power from a free flow filter in the OE plumbing on a stock engine is if the original filter has inadequate flow. That seldom happens these days, outside of dirty filters, as most have more than enough. The overage is to account for restriction as the filter gets dirty.

Examples: I flow benched a factory Motorcraft air filter for my F150 two years ago. In the original air box, over several tests on a SuperFlow SF600 flow bench, it averaged 621.58 cfm... and it was a used filter with about 21K on it. A new, cleanable AEM Dryflow replacement element (a drop in like you are looking for) averaged 592.36 cfm but is reported to have 99.4+ percent efficient media(AEM makes no bones about this, BTW). We don't have the actual MC efficiency but most OEMs are in the 97-98+ percent area. And they are generally getting better with each passing year.

The big question, however, is how much air does the engine need? I know my 5.4L will want 420 cfm at 5500 rpm @ a calculated 80 percent volumetric efficiency. If I am generous and give it 85 percent VE, airflow goes up to 446 cfm. When was the last time my engine saw 5500 rpm? Never. Even though I have dyno'ed the truck extensively, and am running a custom tune, I keep the upper rpm limit at 5300. I never even see that rpm in my driving around as I am scratching to get every mpg. Max power is rated by Ford at 5000 rpm and the engine is pretty well done then. At 5000, the engine needs 405.8 cfm @ 85 % VE.

So, I have 621 cfm available from the stock, dirty filter. I need 405 to reach maximum power. How is more potential flow going to help? I have 53 percent more flow than I need.

You can increase power by changing the plumbing. That's highly variable because some aftermarket systems are better than others. You can tune them to achieve more power all thru the rpm range but the results are usually small with a stock engine. The plumbing changes are more a need when you increase power and airflow needs thru other tuning and need an intake system than can keep up. You might see a power increase by adding a freer flowing filter into the stock housing at that point.

Again, I can only refer back to my own tests. The full system on my truck, with all it's snorkels and silencers attached, flowed 621 cfm I made some mods to the stock system (the famous Gotts mod for F150s) and got it up to 637 cfm.
For comparison, a AEM Brute Force CAI system, which replaces all the OE stuff from the throttle body out, for the truck flowed 733.30 cfm. It knocked 6 degrees off the IAT and about 2/10s off 0-60 time. I couldn't see anything on the dyno (six runs) outside a margin for error, but it was trended upwards. The F-150s are hard to dyno and chassis dynos are notoriously hard to read small increases anyway. To get 2/10s on 0-60, there had to be something.

I got a little long-winded here but if you are looking for power, you won't find it (or much of it) by decreasing your filtering efficiency. Most OE or replacement filters deliver more than enough air, with a substantial reserve. Install a filter restriction gauge (Filter Minder) if you truck doesn't already have one, and replace the fitler when restriction reaches the OE specified limit or when the restriction increases 2.5 kPa (0.75" mercury) over the stock clean filter reading.
 
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Thanks Jim for that info. I really appreciate that. I want ot keep my engine clean and I've been leary of the Oiled/Free flow filters even though I got one for my Ram in an effort to squeeze out a few more miles per tank.

I've read a lot of things in a lot of places and there's just as much pro as there is con. My biggest concerns were that the freer flowing filter would allow more dirt into my engine and I've read that the oils from the filter tend to end up on teh throttle body.

Putting it the way you did has me thinking I'm better off to just go back to how I used to do it for years and change the paper filter every other oil change. They aren't that expensive and 6000 miles really isn't enough to that much time for regular road driving to get it that dirty.
 
John, one more thing you should look at in the link below. Read it carefully. The point is that you can let the filter get pretty dirty before youNEED to change it. In fact, filter efficiency improves slightly as it gets dirty. That's why I advised installing a Filter Minder, or some other filter restriction gauge, and change the filter when it indicates enough restriction is taking place.

Air Filters & Fuel Economy
 
Thanks. That was very informative. I guess what I really need to be looking for is what filter provides the best filtering for my engines and not so much how much air it let's pass.

I'm going to keep that link handy for all those threads I read from others asking about the best CAI and high performance intakes and such. I sort of half way bought into the CAI idea when I bought my Ram. I first bought a K&N filter for it and then upgraded to a full AirAid CAI system and never saw any real economy increase. Even for daily driver performance, the increase was not significant enough to make it worthwhile. I recently reinstalled the factory intake because I really didn't like listening to the loud intake when accelerating.
 
You and me, brother. Same story exactly. THe noise got to be unbearable. The better CAIs do deliver some power... but how often are you at 5000 rpm day to day?
Getting accurate filtration tests done is expensive, plus none of the companies manufacturing OE replacement filters want to look bad, so you seldom see their info published. If you want to see some filter tests done 6 years or so ago Google "Spicer Air Filter Test." There were links to it here years back too, as well as conversations (some heated) with Mr. Spicer. The links may have changed but I recently found it by Googling.
 
Originally Posted By: zex4g63
I've got an amsoil eaa in two of my vehicles and I'm actually impressed with them.


I too am impressed with the Amsoil EaA.
 
Both the AEM dryflow and Amsoil cone filters returned perfect silicon values from all my UOAs. So did the OEM filters.
 
the fact that the Pontiac was able to achieve 17+ mpg on the cruising circuit is noteworthy.
Also noteworthy is the Pontiac overheated during one of the tests, and with the 455-4 was approximately equal in acceleration to a 2003 Camry 4 cyl. My we've come a long way
 
I like OE Toyota filters, but I don't have a toyota now, so ...

The Nissan OE filters are pretty heavily oiled, too heavily for my taste.

The intake design of some of the nissans force a lot of moisture (rain) into the air filter, and when I run dry paper filters they get wet and wrinkle up. I also assume that when they are wet they probably don't flow too well.

So I have been using the pureone filters as a happy medium, seem to be lightly oiled and water spray runs off them.
 
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