What to do with this backwire connection?

[y_p_w]

I had a different topic on my GFCI journey, but ended up ordering several of these GFCI receptacles. One of them has replaced an indoor GFCI receptacle used outdoors, but most will go indoors. However, I intend on using the backwire connections rather than looping around the screw. It seems pretty secure. Apparently the backwire clamp can also work with stranded wire, but that’s not really an issue for me.

They seem to be designed for insertion above or below the screw. There’s lots of Romex lying around and I’ve been testing all sorts of ways to do this, along with maybe up stripping out the individual wires if I need to extend any short wire. I was thinking of just inserting a piece of wire in the otherwise unused slot so that the pressure on the plate is even. I tried populating one slot and then tightening it, and the screw seems to tilt in one direction, where the plate is somewhat askew.

This is what it looks like with the little bit of 14 gauge solid wire to even out the pressure. I don’t plan on using the load terminals (except maybe for this one fix where the dead GFCI has a load). But when tightened without any wire, it seems to warp the pressure plate down the center.

I suppose I’m overthinking this, but I was concerned when the screw seemed to tilt like it might cross-thread. Cross-threading was my main concern.

 

[jhellwig]

It is fine. Done hundreds of them like that. The backstab without the screw is the one not to do.

 

[y_p_w]

I previously mentioned the clips on these things to shield the terminals. Not sure how common these are now.

 

[y_p_w]

It is fine. Done hundreds of them like that. The backstab without the screw is the one not to do.

Yeah, I spent some time redoing several backstabbed outlets with loops around the screw. The tension on the leaf spring/barb was clearly lower after nearly 30 years. The outlets (residential grade Leviton Decora) were otherwise in good shape with good plug retention.

My understanding is that when the spring tension is reduced, the contact becomes poor and the resistance can go up. Maybe not where a fire starts, but where it gets really hot and maybe chars/melts a bit. Apparently these guys came across some receptacles that were backstab only.

What is Backstabbing a Receptacle or Switch and why is it important to hire an electrician that does not use this method of wiring?

Have you ever experienced a burning smell or the smell of plastic melting coming from an outlet or receptacle in your home or business? This is a cause for concern because electric and fire can be related.

lappelectric.com

 

[jhellwig]

There used to be switches like that also. Would have been fine if they pig tailed to each receptacle but that wasn't the point of them. Pennies in the fuse box and space heaters burn them up.

 

[y_p_w]

There used to be switches like that also. Would have been fine if they pig tailed to each receptacle but that wasn't the point of them. Pennies in the fuse box and space heaters burn them up.

Fluorescent tombstones have no other option other than insert into a leaf spring. They don’t even have a release.

 

[jhellwig]

Low current application. Some do have a release. Some old ones had screw terminals also.

 

[y_p_w]

Low current application. Some do have a release. Some old ones had screw terminals also.

I’ve had some with a cardboard backing and I could release by prying the cardboard. However, I got some tombstones with an LED tube and those are all plastic bodies. I’ve tried wiggling the cable out. I think electricians usually just assume the tombstones and wires get tossed if they need to be replaced and use wire nuts (or WAGO I suppose) and new wire.

Or maybe with ballasts (with captive wires) there was typically enough wire to just cut and then extend the wiring with connectors if there wasn’t enough length.

I’m at Harbor Freight and they’ve got these weird splice connectors that say they don’t require stripping insulation. Doesn’t sound like a good idea.

 

[jhellwig]

Twist as you pull and they will come out. If the new ballast is for T12 lamps you have to cut the wires and nut them together because they are not legal for new fixtures so the wires are short enough they will not reach the tombstones. I never removed the wires from tombstones unless the tombstone was bad when replacing ballasts. Quicker and less work to nut them. If Wagos were available when I was doing it back then I would have used them. All I use now is Wagos unless there is an instance where you can't. I have even had to daisy chain them. Never had an issue with them. They are made way better than the outlets were.

The connectors you are talking about are commonly referred to as scotch locks. They work well for hooking up strings of end to end fluorescent fixtures in a long run. Not good for much else and definitely not good in a wet environment.

 

[Hall]

I suppose I’m overthinking this, but I was concerned when the screw seemed to tilt like it might cross-thread. Cross-threading was my main concern.

The clamp is a soft metal so it will bend before it applies enough force that it torques the screw enough to cross-thread. It's fine, like jhellwig said already.

 

[y_p_w]

Twist as you pull and they will come out. If the new ballast is for T12 lamps you have to cut the wires and nut them together because they are not legal for new fixtures so the wires are short enough they will not reach the tombstones. I never removed the wires from tombstones unless the tombstone was bad when replacing ballasts. Quicker and less work to nut them. If Wagos were available when I was doing it back then I would have used them. All I use now is Wagos unless there is an instance where you can't. I have even had to daisy chain them. Never had an issue with them. They are made way better than the outlets were.

The connectors you are talking about are commonly referred to as scotch locks. They work well for hooking up strings of end to end fluorescent fixtures in a long run. Not good for much else and definitely not good in a wet environment.

They were these. I’d never seen them before. I’ve always used wire nuts.

Quick Splice Set 14/18 Gauge, 50 Piece

Amazing deals on this 50Pc Quick Splice Set 14/18 Gauge at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

At HD they’ve got everything - wire nuts, WAGO, and push-in connectors. The latter seems like a good idea other than I’m not sure the tension will last long term (same issue with backstabs) and no release mechanism.

It’s been maybe 15 years since I’ve installed a ballast, and I used wire nuts to connect to the existing tombstones. However, I converted to direct wire LEDs and either took out or left the ballast in place unconnected. I did break a tombstone and also wanted to properly rewire the tombstones color coded for hot and neutral as compared to with a ballast. I reused what I could, but still had to wiggle out the old wires except for a new tombstone.

 

[supton]

At HD they’ve got everything - wire nuts, WAGO, and push-in connectors. The latter seems like a good idea other than I’m not sure the tension will last long term (same issue with backstabs) and no release mechanism.

I think you just twist the wire as you pull on it... never tried, have avoided when I can (might have used on some LED shop lighting, on that, it's all low current, so not really worried).

 

[y_p_w]

I think you just twist the wire as you pull on it... never tried, have avoided when I can (might have used on some LED shop lighting, on that, it's all low current, so not really worried).

I was thinking Ideal In-Sure.

In-Sure® Push-In Wire Connector, Model 33 3-Port Orange

In-Sure® Push-In Wire Connector, Model 33 3-Port Org

www.idealind.com

They do have their own version of a lever lock connector.

I don’t get the pricing though. On Amazon, they’re $6.98 for a bag of 10, but $25.98 for a bag of 500.

 

[y_p_w]

So I’ve been redoing stuff and dealt with one outlet where the length of existing wire barely extended out of the gang box. If a bit of wire broke off it would barely be enough to wire an outlet. It seemed reasonable to extend it with about six inches of wire for hot and neutral, where I have at least 100’ of Romex to take apart.

I still have my little project with a rental house, and I’m thinking there’s a distinct possibility that there’s going to be stubby lengths of wire coming out of the boxes,

 

[Hall]

It seemed reasonable to extend it with about six inches of wire for hot and neutral

You're allowed to do that

 

[y_p_w]

I found this abomination in their kitchen and replaced it with a residential grade outlet. It was populated with both top and bottom connected, so I rewired with a wire nut hooking those wires together to a short length to the replacement outlet.

The only thing it powers is the range hood, so I’m thinking it was installed maybe 20 years ago by the installer.

 

[Hall]

and replaced it with a residential grade outlet

You probably mean "commercial grade". A $1 residential grade would be fine for that application though. No one plugs and unplugs a range hood to wear out the plug. I replaced all of our kitchen counter outlets with commercial grade because most of them will have a toaster or mixer or air fryer or instant-pot or something plugged in and unplugged on a daily basis. Also put them in a few that we use to plug in a vacuum frequently while the one behind the TV, for instance, just has a regular outlet.

 

[SHOZ]

Almost all screws get loose over time with heat cycles. Big issue in large industrial control panels.

 

[y_p_w]

Almost all screws get loose over time with heat cycles. Big issue in large industrial control panels.

Would it make sense to periodically retorque screws?

 

[SHOZ]

Would it make sense to periodically retorque screws?

Yes we use to do that on the yearly shut downs. Not necessarily all the outlets and switches in a house but the main circuit breakers. Or you have an outlets that carries a large load. You can almost always get another ugga on the screw.