I look for Quality & efficiency at a good price.
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What do you look for in an oil filter?
- Thread starter DirtRacer53
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Which is why I grab a purolator usually, you just cant beat 99.9% at 20 microns and $5 a can with out a rebate...
It has to be orange in color and say FRAM on the side.
Originally Posted By: Brenden
Which is why I grab a purolator usually, you just cant beat 99.9% at 20 microns and $5 a can with out a rebate...
Exactly. The best filtering at the best price. Good for the manufacturers OCI.
Bosch Premium is the same except nitrile gasket not silicone.
Which is why I grab a purolator usually, you just cant beat 99.9% at 20 microns and $5 a can with out a rebate...
Exactly. The best filtering at the best price. Good for the manufacturers OCI.
Bosch Premium is the same except nitrile gasket not silicone.
If it says FRAM it has to be Gold in color. I want synthetic media for extended intervals.
Used oil?
What do you mean?
Ahh..right.
Originally Posted By: MarkStock
"What do you look for IN an oil filter?"
Used oil
The center tube
Mini KevGuy
That it's a FRAM OCOD in disguise
etc etc
^^^^
^^^^
"What do you look for IN an oil filter?"
Used oil
The center tube
Mini KevGuy
That it's a FRAM OCOD in disguise
etc etc
^^^^
Originally Posted By: Brenden
Which is why I grab a purolator usually, you just cant beat 99.9% at 20 microns and $5 a can with out a rebate...
OH dear, thats not really true, as the advertising folks only quote the final filtration efficiency just before the filter blocks. You need to know the initial filtration efficiency, which might be around 96.9%, as thats the real killer when the oil filter is new.
If you are a real smart Alec then get to know the boys in the Iffy lube shop and buy a used manufacturers oil filter that some dipstick dumped for a made in China or Mexico orange can of death because of a 3K OCI sticker stuck under his nose. Drain it overnight and wipe instant gasket on the seal before fitting as a precaution.
Dirty filters are much better than new ones right up until they block. I don't chance it with oil filters as the locals do very long OCI's, BUT I never fit a new air filter as they are a nightmare in performance terms.
Always keep a cabin air filter clean or it reduces air flow for demisting unless you get hay fever, but change engine and fuel filters on condition only.
Remember the green filter users motto, "If it ain't real black, put it back!", BUT don't exceed the manufacturers recommended oil filter change interval if you have a horrible screw on type that can't be inspected.
Which is why I grab a purolator usually, you just cant beat 99.9% at 20 microns and $5 a can with out a rebate...
OH dear, thats not really true, as the advertising folks only quote the final filtration efficiency just before the filter blocks. You need to know the initial filtration efficiency, which might be around 96.9%, as thats the real killer when the oil filter is new.
If you are a real smart Alec then get to know the boys in the Iffy lube shop and buy a used manufacturers oil filter that some dipstick dumped for a made in China or Mexico orange can of death because of a 3K OCI sticker stuck under his nose. Drain it overnight and wipe instant gasket on the seal before fitting as a precaution.
Dirty filters are much better than new ones right up until they block. I don't chance it with oil filters as the locals do very long OCI's, BUT I never fit a new air filter as they are a nightmare in performance terms.
Always keep a cabin air filter clean or it reduces air flow for demisting unless you get hay fever, but change engine and fuel filters on condition only.
Remember the green filter users motto, "If it ain't real black, put it back!", BUT don't exceed the manufacturers recommended oil filter change interval if you have a horrible screw on type that can't be inspected.
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Price. The Cruze gets OEM Delco/Hengst filters since they're the best fit for the application, and those can be had for $5-6 depending on where one purchases it from. Other places charge $15 for the exact same filter. It's a cartridge for a popular car, it shouldn't be $15 like Advance and AutoZone charge for it.
Mobil 1 or Bosch D+.
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Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: Brenden
Which is why I grab a purolator usually, you just cant beat 99.9% at 20 microns and $5 a can with out a rebate...
OH dear, thats not really true, as the advertising folks only quote the final filtration efficiency just before the filter blocks. You need to know the initial filtration efficiency, which might be around 96.9%, as thats the real killer when the oil filter is new.
If you are a real smart Alec then get to know the boys in the Iffy lube shop and buy a used manufacturers oil filter that some dipstick dumped for a made in China or Mexico orange can of death because of a 3K OCI sticker stuck under his nose. Drain it overnight and wipe instant gasket on the seal before fitting as a precaution.
Dirty filters are much better than new ones right up until they block. I don't chance it with oil filters as the locals do very long OCI's, BUT I never fit a new air filter as they are a nightmare in performance terms.
Always keep a cabin air filter clean or it reduces air flow for demisting unless you get hay fever, but change engine and fuel filters on condition only.
Remember the green filter users motto, "If it ain't real black, put it back!", BUT don't exceed the manufacturers recommended oil filter change interval if you have a horrible screw on type that can't be inspected.
1. Link to that info please.
2. Lol, a new one may let slightly more dirt in, but it won't have a detrimental effect on engine life; the only thing you will notice is the mpg increase from a fresh filter if the old one is bad.
Originally Posted By: Brenden
Which is why I grab a purolator usually, you just cant beat 99.9% at 20 microns and $5 a can with out a rebate...
OH dear, thats not really true, as the advertising folks only quote the final filtration efficiency just before the filter blocks. You need to know the initial filtration efficiency, which might be around 96.9%, as thats the real killer when the oil filter is new.
If you are a real smart Alec then get to know the boys in the Iffy lube shop and buy a used manufacturers oil filter that some dipstick dumped for a made in China or Mexico orange can of death because of a 3K OCI sticker stuck under his nose. Drain it overnight and wipe instant gasket on the seal before fitting as a precaution.
Dirty filters are much better than new ones right up until they block. I don't chance it with oil filters as the locals do very long OCI's, BUT I never fit a new air filter as they are a nightmare in performance terms.
Always keep a cabin air filter clean or it reduces air flow for demisting unless you get hay fever, but change engine and fuel filters on condition only.
Remember the green filter users motto, "If it ain't real black, put it back!", BUT don't exceed the manufacturers recommended oil filter change interval if you have a horrible screw on type that can't be inspected.
1. Link to that info please.
2. Lol, a new one may let slightly more dirt in, but it won't have a detrimental effect on engine life; the only thing you will notice is the mpg increase from a fresh filter if the old one is bad.
Originally Posted By: Brenden
...; the only thing you will notice is the mpg increase from a fresh filter if the old one is bad.
Really?
Modern automotive engines (for the past 20+ years) meter the air entering the engine (think MAF and MAP sensors) so a fresh free flowing air filter will allow more air at wide open throttle, but I don't see how it would increase mpg.
...; the only thing you will notice is the mpg increase from a fresh filter if the old one is bad.
Really?
Modern automotive engines (for the past 20+ years) meter the air entering the engine (think MAF and MAP sensors) so a fresh free flowing air filter will allow more air at wide open throttle, but I don't see how it would increase mpg.
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I have always noticed a smoother running car and a couple MPG from air filter changes, but the only car I had with a MAF was my 99 grand am.
And on this motor I am running a 3 bar GM MAP sensor for my future turbo.
I have never had anyone I told to change the air filter after 15k+ tell me it didn't do anything, it was a waste.
And on this motor I am running a 3 bar GM MAP sensor for my future turbo.
I have never had anyone I told to change the air filter after 15k+ tell me it didn't do anything, it was a waste.
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Originally Posted By: Brenden
I have never had anyone I told to change the air filter after 15k+ tell me it didn't do anything, it was a waste.
Well, they probably don't want to disappoint you!
I have never had anyone I told to change the air filter after 15k+ tell me it didn't do anything, it was a waste.
Well, they probably don't want to disappoint you!
Originally Posted By: KevGuy
It has to be orange in color and say FRAM on the side.
Proving once again that a typical Fram OCOD user purchases his filter because of what's on the OUTSIDE of the filter and an informed BITOGer buys his oil filter because of what is INSIDE the filter.
It has to be orange in color and say FRAM on the side.
Proving once again that a typical Fram OCOD user purchases his filter because of what's on the OUTSIDE of the filter and an informed BITOGer buys his oil filter because of what is INSIDE the filter.
Originally Posted By: Kruse
Originally Posted By: KevGuy
It has to be orange in color and say FRAM on the side.
Proving once again that a typical Fram OCOD user purchases his filter because of what's on the OUTSIDE of the filter and an informed BITOGer buys his oil filter because of what is INSIDE the filter.
^^^ +1 ^^^
Originally Posted By: KevGuy
It has to be orange in color and say FRAM on the side.
Proving once again that a typical Fram OCOD user purchases his filter because of what's on the OUTSIDE of the filter and an informed BITOGer buys his oil filter because of what is INSIDE the filter.
^^^ +1 ^^^
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