Water heater upper element not turning on, is this normal?

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May 4, 2008
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I have been recently chasing an increasing utility bill over the last 3 months, to the tune of an extra $100. My gut said the water heater, and this was replaced about 6 years ago and is currently a Bradford White 50 gal.

Long-winded but trying to answer all questions...

I figured it's time to drain it again anyway so living on a well I try to do this every 3 years. There was a decent amount of sediment in the bottom, nothing crazy, maybe enough to fill a plastic shopping bag. I cleaned it all out and while I was at it, I replaced the elements since the lower one was already removed, only a few pieces were stuck to the element..they both did ohm out just fine but why not.

I didn't touch the thermostat and monitored my utility usage for the upcoming days and it stayed the same as before I swapped the elements.

My understanding is if the upper thermostat is bad, then the heater won't heat at all, including the lower element. The temp settings have been the same as when I installed the heater, when my utility bills were low. The upper element is set just slightly higher then the bottom, maybe a needle width higher on the dial.

I used my Fluke meter to log a 24 hour session with the leads clipped to the upper element, after 24 hours I had no activity on the upper element. The next session I checked the upper thermostat and turned it up and heard the loud "click" at the VERY HOT setting, then turned it back down and it "clicked" again at the HOT setting which is where it was set.

I did the same for the lower and the lower seemed to click on and off at a lower setting, about mid way between HOT and VERY HOT and turned back on below the HOT setting.

I ran another 24 hour logging session and again, no activity on the upper element. Granted this was after 2 showers and a load of laundry, safe bet the heater was depleted of more than half it's capacity.

Maybe this is normal, not sure, the upper thermostat seems to ohm out correctly, less than .3 ohms on both sides of the reset button, and when the thermostat turns back off will read low ohms and "OL" when off.

I will log another session on the lower element today but curious if this sounds normal. I understand quick usage of hot water won't trip the upper element but more than half the tank I assume it would....2 kids, laundry at night, then 2 showers in the AM...lol. no chance it didn't run down.

This was the last session for the upper element:


Upper element log 1.jpg
 
I would guess the upper element is the backup when temp drops too low in the tank. What are the water temps coming out? Watts in equal btus.

Reflective bubble wrap is a great and cheap way to cut your water heater bills substantially. And water softeners will stop the sentiment build up.
 
The top shouldnt come on unless you severely deplete the hot water.

I found a link

either way it costs the same to heat the water so I think you are chasing the wrong squirrel in your hunt for energy use.

how much has the electric went up vs last year?

I was thinking the same, needs to be severely depleted.

When I changed my HVAC to a variable speed and my water heater the same month, my utility bills were around $140-150 for a 2200' home, after Covid they were near $180 with mmore working from home. Now I'm at $270-320....which is nuts. Happened over last 2 months, rates are the same.
 
I was thinking the same, needs to be severely depleted.

When I changed my HVAC to a variable speed and my water heater the same month, my utility bills were around $140-150 for a 2200' home, after Covid they were near $180 with mmore working from home. Now I'm at $270-320....which is nuts. Happened over last 2 months, rates are the same.
so last summer they were 150 cheaper?
what was your actual usage. not $$$ comparison

ie you went from 1400kwh to 2200kwh etc.
 
so last summer they were 150 cheaper?
what was your actual usage. not $$$ comparison

ie you went from 1400kwh to 2200kwh etc.

Roughly that's correct. Off the top of my head, 1300-1400 kwh avg, 1500-1600 high average to 2100 or a little more.

1 mini fridge, 1 freezer, and a few LCD monitors won't bridge that gap.
 
I would shut everything off everything and I mean everything and see if your electric meter is turning.
 
I would shut everything off everything and I mean everything and see if your electric meter is turning.
Yeah, that's what needs to happen.

The poco has changed the meter head twice in the last 4 years, this last 2 have no dials or tenths for the digital readout. I used to be able to see exactly where my usage was with the dials, but even a tenths place would help.

I get a few kw here and there, but not this much lol.
 
Top element in a water heater doesn't come on unless the top half of the tank gets low enough in temperature. The bottom element does most of the work.
 
Water leaks especially hot water will waste energy. Monitor the well pump make sure it does not run when no one is using water. A leak in the foot valve or the pipe going down the well will cause the pump to run repeatedly as water leaks back into the well, thus no visible water leak. The outlet pipe from the top of the water heater should be cool when no one is using hot water.

Digital electric meters almost always have a series of dots at the bottom of the screen that move to simulate a mechanical disk turning. When no electricity is being used the dots should stay stationary.
 
Make sure the line attached to the safety valve on the water heater is cold. A leaking safety valve can be a very expensive leak.
 
On my well system I realized that as the pressure drops in the on/off cycle the hot water will flow back into the cold water line. Then into my water softener which is next in line. Years ago I had a check valve on the cold water in. But this would spit the excess pressure out the pressure relief valve when the tank heated up. So I got an expansion tank that sits on top of the cold water inlet and insulated that.
 
I wish you luck in determining the energy consuming gremlin.

At my FL house, the plumbing is under the slab. One day, I noticed the floor was hot in the middle of the house. Sure enough, the hot water pipe was leaking almost dead center under the house. While I could have fixed it by sleeving the 3/4 inch pipe with 1/2 inch PEX, I chose instead to have the plumbers run a section of 3/4 PEX in the attic. As my master shower has 6 shower heads. I want the flow rate.

In any case, I am fairly sure the elec bill is lower now.

Looking back, we've had power outages galore here. So I was not particularly up to speed on the "Neutral" problems we had. As you might have guesses, the Neutral was actually "open" and the pipes were being used as a ground. Very likely leading up to the hole in the copper pipe, directly under the house.
 
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