Vibration between 45-60 mph while accelerating

[Chris140]

I drive a 2008 FWD CRV and I have been dealing with a vibration that is present when going above 45 mph and goes away once I hit 60 mph. So far I have:

-Replaced and balanced tires
-Had an alignment performed
-Changed front struts
-Changed outer tie rod ends and lower ball joints
-Changed sway bar link ends and sway bar bushings
-Drained and refilled ATF 3 times

None of this has changed the vibration that is present between 45 and 60 mph (thought my ride quality has went up a ton, so I guess the parts needed to be changed anyways). The vibration is only present at those speeds and only when I am accelerating the car, the second I let off the gas the shaking goes away. This makes me think the likely problem is the cv axles or the motor mounts. My main question is, wouldn’t both the cv axles and motor mounts cause shaking at different speeds and not just a set range? Even when I go into high rpms at slower or faster speeds, my car runs smooth and no shaking is present. Is it possible the inner cv axles get to some sort of resonance that causes the shake at those speeds? Beyond the motor mounts and cv axles I’m at a loss of what it can be. My car has around 110k miles on it so maybe it is best that I just change both the axles and all the motor mounts, but my biggest concern is the horror stories I hear about non-oem axles causing just as much vibration as bad axles.

 

[MParr]

Have you checked the engine mounts and axles?

 

[Graham Piccinini]

On all (or most) Hondas the motor mounts go first, and in short time kill the CV axles. My bet is on this exact scenario, based on many Hondas I owned in the past, and currently own a 2009 Pilot. Short term fix is new CV axles. Aftermarket is a hit or miss, most often a miss. Long term fix is new OEM CV axles and new motor mounts. (Aftermarket is ok as far as motor mounts.)

 

[CharBaby]

All the above & Road Force Balance the tires

 

[Chris140]

Have you checked the engine mounts and axles?

I visually inspected both. No rips to the boots on the cv axles or grease anywhere. The rubber on the motor mounts look good. I will do a test of the motor mounts when I have someone who can watch the engine while I give it some power. For the axles, I’m not too sure how easy it is for someone with no experience to really determine how much play is too much so I’m not sure if it’s something I can really determine myself.

 

[Soft Cars]

Going away when you hit 60 sounds like a rotational issue like CV axles or tires and wheels.

Check out this story:

 

[Chris140]

On all (or most) Hondas the motor mounts go first, and in short time kill the CV axles. My bet is on this exact scenario, based on many Hondas I owned in the past, and currently own a 2009 Pilot. Short term fix is new CV axles. Aftermarket is a hit or miss, most often a miss. Long term fix is new OEM CV axles and new motor mounts. (Aftermarket is ok as far as motor mounts.)

I did notice visible shaking from my transmission when I crawled under my car and it was in park. I will try to get someone to help me determine if the mounts need to be changed and hope that fixes the problem.

 

[Chris140]

Going away when you hit 60 sounds like a rotational issue like CV axles or tires and wheels.

This is what I was leaning towards but am really hoping it isn’t the case seeing as oem axles are 300 dollars each. If what Graham said is true, it seems worth it to change the mounts first to see if it fixes the issues and if not, at least the new axles won’t be destroyed from my engine having bad mounts.

 

[Graham Piccinini]

I did notice visible shaking from my transmission when I crawled under my car and it was in park. I will try to get someone to help me determine if the mounts need to be changed and hope that fixes the problem.

I've replaced mounts before that looked ok installed, but only once removed the true condition showed itself. Also had those that looked as good as new, but time and miles take their toll. New mounts fix that side of the issue, but CV axles is definitely an annoying one to do, especially when you gotta do it multiple times, as aftermarket CV axles suck...

 

[Chris140]

The main thing that is confusing me is, why would my car only vibrate in that speed range if it’s the cv axle or motor mounts? Shouldn’t the amount of torque being produced be more of an indicator of the axles or mounts going bad? I kept thinking it was a balance issue due to the range, but it doesn’t happen when I’m coasting at those speeds only when I am accelerating.

 

[Graham Piccinini]

This is what I was leaning towards but am really hoping it isn’t the case seeing as oem axles are 300 dollars each. If what Graham said is true, it seems worth it to change the mounts first to see if it fixes the issues and if not, at least the new axles won’t be destroyed from my engine having bad mounts.

Replacing mounts alone likely won't fix it, if axles are already shot enough to give vibration.

 

[Soft Cars]

The main thing that is confusing me is, why would my car only vibrate in that speed range if it’s the cv axle or motor mounts? Shouldn’t the amount of torque being produced be more of an indicator of the axles or mounts going bad? I kept thinking it was a balance issue due to the range, but it doesn’t happen when I’m coasting at those speeds only when I am accelerating.

Bad motor mounts always show up at low speeds like going over a speed bump in a parking lot or while making a low speed turn. It has to be some maneuver that will make the engine slide over and hit something in the engine compartment. Usually a subdued clunk is heard. You're not going to get any vibration from motor mounts at freeway speeds. Vibrations are usually always rotational like drivelines.

 

[redhat]

I have seen on Honda’s that the bearing in the intermediate shaft will cause a vibration once failing.

 

[Luftmasse]

Jack the vehicle up and wiggle the axles, any free play? Also wiggle the wheels up and down any free play?

 

[Marcozi]

The key word here is "accelerating." The whole drivetrain undergoes added stress while accelerating. If the car was RWD I'd look at the driveshaft and the center support bearing. As a FWD car I suspect one of the half shafts is the culprit.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

I had that on my grand prix the motor mount on the pass. side under the damper was so bad the motor was sitting sloped to where you could see it. Motor mount replaced and became smooth as glass. No axles needed. It had changed the geometry of the axle enough to cause the issue. Guys that lowered their W bodies have this issue after lowering them.
Motor mount spacers and or sometimes different front torque strut/"dog-bones" fixes it.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Bad motor mounts always show up at low speeds like going over a speed bump in a parking lot or while making a low speed turn. It has to be some maneuver that will make the engine slide over and hit something in the engine compartment. Usually a subdued clunk is heard. You're not going to get any vibration from motor mounts at freeway speeds. Vibrations are usually always rotational like drivelines.

My GP begs to differ. Must have a sweet spot she likes to have the axles sitting at. IDK. YMMV and the OP's mileage may vary.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

The key word here is "accelerating." The whole drivetrain undergoes added stress while accelerating. If the car was RWD I'd look at the driveshaft and the center support bearing. As a FWD car I suspect one of the half shafts is the culprit.

Back in the day some guys called them "carrier bearings" Old-timer I worked for yelled at me for calling them that.