Valvoline Motorcycle 20/50 -2,630 miles,VStar 1300

[alarmguy]

My First UOA. I always use conventional because I change oil every 2000 miles or so, give or take 500 miles. Pretty much 3 times a year. I was curious on how the viscosity would hold up and the main reason for the test.

Normally I use 15/40 HDEO's like Delo, Mobile, Valvoline, Rotella and you can tell after 2000 miles shifting will start to get a little notchy due to the drop in viscosity.
However with the Valvoline 4Stroke motorcycle oil in the 20/50, I havent noticed that, even after 2,600 miles so I was assuming it held up pretty good. It seems that Blackstone confirmed that.

Newer Vstar 1300 owner manual says its ok to use 20/50 and I thought that was perfect for my hot climate and the fact that the shared gear case chews up the viscosity pretty well, not only in conventional oil but some of the cheaper synthetics and some of the 5/40 synthetics.
I will use the 15/40 HDEO over the winter.

I also thought (hoped) this oil would perform better then some of those 5/40 synthetics, simply because its a 20/50 oil. In fact I think the conventional Valvoline 20/50 Motorcycle oil held viscosity better then some oils like Rotella T 5/40 based on recent posts on other bikes even on this page. Maybe better said, the conventional Valvoline MC oil didnt drop into the mid to low 30s in about the same mileage as the 5/40 synthetics.

I expected the viscosity to drop down into the high 30s and would have been very happy about that but from what I can tell by this Blackstone report, it looks like it didnt drop much below a 45. Is that a safe assumption? Any other comments? Thanks ...
Blackstone Lab Valvoline 20/50 Motorcycle Oil

 

[va3ux]

Can't see a thing to complain about in that UOA. Looks very good for a shared sump V Twin. So this was the conventional Valvoline MC oil in the black bottle ?

 

[alarmguy]

Originally Posted By: va3ux
Can't see a thing to complain about in that UOA. Looks very good for a shared sump V Twin. So this was the conventional Valvoline MC oil in the black bottle ?


Yes, Correct, in the black bottle, Labeled "Valvoline Motorcycle 4 Stroke 20w50"
I was more then pleasantly surprised yet had a feeling (and a hope) the viscosity would come in as it did.
In fact I was impressed enough to use the same oil again.

I never ran a conventional that long and most times you can tell an oil is getting thinned out as you get past the 2200 mile mark or so because the shifting will get just a little more notchy, that didnt happen this time with this oil.
Its readily available at auto stores and Walmart Super Centers where I paid $4. a quart, also Amazon.

 

[va3ux]

Well as you'll see from a UOA post I'll make later tonight, the Valvoline might be a good next choice for me.

 

[Qwiky]

I'd be giving the VR1 20W50 a spin. Some of the UOAs for it come out real good.

 

[va3ux]

Originally Posted By: Qwiky
I'd be giving the VR1 20W50 a spin. Some of the UOAs for it come out real good.


I'm curious about that because the spec sheet for VR1 specifically says NOT for use in wet clutch bikes. Yet,people are using it

 

[alarmguy]

Yes, I saw that VR1, nice additive package for sure. Never looked to much more into it .. thats in my next post though. *L*

 

[alarmguy]

Originally Posted By: va3ux
Originally Posted By: Qwiky
I'd be giving the VR1 20W50 a spin. Some of the UOAs for it come out real good.

I'm curious about that because the spec sheet for VR1 specifically says NOT for use in wet clutch bikes. Yet,people are using it


Thanks for this info .. I have noticed the VR1 does well, certainly robust but have not looked into it to much. I was not aware about the "wet clutch" statement and kind of confirms my fears.

First thing, it has a super anti wear package but being a racing oil I was wondering if they also make it as slippery as possible to get the most horsepower for race engines. Maybe the reason for the wet clutch warning.

 

[sunruh]

i laugh at you guys worrying about wet clutch issues.

 

[alarmguy]

Originally Posted By: sunruh
i laugh at you guys worrying about wet clutch issues.

Worried? not really, (you did notice my favorite cooler weather oil is Delo LE400 conventional) with my favorite oils already, no reason for me to look into yet another, more so if the company is saying it might be to slippery for your clutch. I only ride so many miles a year and can change my oil only so often and there are so many oils I couldnt possibly try them all out, more so if I am getting the results I want from what I use.

 

[va3ux]

Originally Posted By: sunruh
i laugh at you guys worrying about wet clutch issues.


Why ? Is it because we're worrying without good reason ? Or because you don't have to worry about the issue with your particular bike (in which case, I envy you) ?

 

[tc1446]

Looks to me like that oil could have been run another 1000 or so, based on the excellent viscosity.

 

[alarmguy]

Originally Posted By: tc1446
Looks to me like that oil could have been run another 1000 or so, based on the excellent viscosity.


Yes, that was kind of my theory for using a 20/50 for the summer. I hoped the viscosity would hold up and it held up better then expected. I will most likely always still change 3 times a year but this confirms, as I ride more that I will not be panicked to change the oil if I start to run over the 2500 mark.
It does look like it will hold up nicely to the recommended 4000 mile oil change interval even though I will never expect to get that close to 4000 miles before changing, it is nice to know that it seems like a good choice.
I suspect many 20/50's will hold up well in shared gearboxes simply because the base oil is a 20 instead of 15,10 or 5.
Thereby requiring less viscosity improver to shear. I think with this oil no matter what, one would not drop below the mid 30's, worst case by the time they are supposed to change the oil. But all bikes do vary on how much they beat up the oil. Either way, very good results for a conventional oil and better results then a lot of cheap synthetics.

 

[tc1446]

If your bike allows use of 20-50 it does hold up better against shearing compared to 10-40. Of course many bikes with wet clutches are easy on oil anyway, but some are not. In my Can Am, which doesn't recommend use of 20-50, i've found thru repeated UAO's that even 10-40 Amsoil will shear down to upper 20's in 3000 miles. Add about half 20-50 to it and its in mid 30's.

Wanting to experiment a bit, I just ran a test of the same weights of Valvoline cycle oil and the UAO report on shear was in upper 20's, lower than Amsoil. Also it had a load of Sodium and Boron, unlike Amsoil, which I think is used for anti-wear. I don't know whether this use of sodium & boron is better or worse than Amsoil or simply just a diff forumulation, but I've gone back to my Amsoil mixture simply because it shears less.

 

[alarmguy]

Originally Posted By: tc1446
If your bike allows use of 20-50 it does hold up better against shearing compared to 10-40. Of course many bikes with wet clutches are easy on oil anyway, but some are not. In my Can Am, which doesn't recommend use of 20-50, i've found thru repeated UAO's that even 10-40 Amsoil will shear down to upper 20's in 3000 miles. Add about half 20-50 to it and its in mid 30's.

Wanting to experiment a bit, I just ran a test of the same weights of Valvoline cycle oil and the UAO report on shear was in upper 20's, lower than Amsoil. Also it had a load of Sodium and Boron, unlike Amsoil, which I think is used for anti-wear. I don't know whether this use of sodium & boron is better or worse than Amsoil or simply just a diff forumulation, but I've gone back to my Amsoil mixture simply because it shears less.


Yes, without question, if a 20/50 is ok to use, it will hold up better, simply because it has less to fall. Im a bit confused though by your statement.
Of course I do think of Amsoil (and Mobile 1 motorcycle oil)as a sturdy, even superior oil but you state in the above post that the Amsoil 10/40 (even after repeated UOAs) and the Valvoline 10/40 both sheared to the upper 20s.
The way I read it is only after your mixed in some 20/50 did the Amsoil stay in the 30s.
Is there typo in there someplace?

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: sunruh
i laugh at you guys worrying about wet clutch issues.
Not everyone rides a BM..

 

[sunruh]

Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: sunruh
i laugh at you guys worrying about wet clutch issues.
Not everyone rides a BM..

i can honestly say that i have never sat on a bmw bike let alone ridden one. hmmm dont think ive even driven that brand of car.

 

[alarmguy]

Ironic, either have I, except my son just picked up a BMW X1 automobile, ordered it here (SC) and kept track online coming from factory in Germany (even the day it got it's VIN number) to the car dealership in SC. Was kind of cool.
Anyway, was interesting that the first oil change is at 15,000 miles!
He doesnt think anything of it and I am like, wow, I would go nuts if I thought I should wait 15k miles ... but anyway, have no idea the point of this post ... I dont drive a BMW, just a Durango.
I see someone just posted a UOA for a BMW motorcycle with VR1 but if I am correct, the BMW has a dry clutch and no shared sump for the gearcase/transmission.

 

[Robenstein]

I think the issue with VR1 in wet clutches is in the 30 weight varieties not the 20w50. It does not say it on the bottle of my 20w50 VR1 syn that I used in my wet clutch triumph. It shifts smooth as butter.

Im betting the 5w30 and 10w30 flavors have more friction modifiers that would mess up a wet sump system. Plus they want you to buy their motorcycle line to make a few bucks so they issue the blanket statement to sell that as well as protect them from anyone who misuses a product and tries to blame them. My only issue with VR1 versus their 4T syn line was I burned a bit of oil with the VR1 over 2k miles.

 

[alarmguy]

You are correct EPA demands (for lack of better words)dictate less phos/zinc in oils less then a SN 10/40 to prolong the life of pollution control equipment.

Correct again, oils less then the SN 10/40s will have more moly or other friction modifiers to achieve better gas mileage in most cases. This slippery oil enables then to earn the "Energy Conserving" label.

10/40 and above ex. 15/40, 20/50 oils do not have this requirement but you do need to keep a watchful eye out on the automotive oils more so then in the past in the 10/40 and above, though it is not required it is possible you can have the same zino/phos/ moly levels as in the SN 10/30 oils and below if the manufacture decides to do so.

I personally feel sometimes why best if you use a Dino oil anyway, pick up some Valvoline 10/40 or 20/50 4 stroke motorcycle oil which runs less then $5 a quart or if you choose synthetic I personally would most likely pass on the Automotive synthetics unless I saw some UOAs that looked safe for wet clutch bikes.

I want to stress (cause I know some will comment) I have nothing against automotive oils in bikes I do think though, now, with the new automotive SN requirements you do need to be careful that they may have low zinc levels and worse yet, high friction modifiers vs a motorcycle oil that meets Jaso standards. I also do understand racing oils are an exception and will have high antiwear zinc/phos and are a great choice but even then I wonder (only recently) if, in order to get more horsepower some will go the way of throwing in lots of friction modifiers which is not good for your clutch. (even though the fear is greater then the reality but not sure it is worth the risk with so many oils on the market for bikes)