Valve clearance adjustment procedure Honda BSeries

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The .006" is already hard to work with and my skills are modest. It's a done deal already and when I start and idled, it sounded way smoother. No clack-clack that now I realize was from the back, the intake. The intakes are the ones that require .003" to .005" but I only had the .006" gauge. Well, those seemed pretty tight and the exhaust seemed mostly the same and accurate when checked at .008", but I loosened and re-adjusted them.

I won't drive it until tomorrow. I'm glad to get the job done. Like most things you do, you wonder why you waited so long.

My nuts were hand tight. I approximated the same on re-do.
 
Originally Posted By: TexasHonda
Only way I could think for the valve gap to decrease would be for varnish deposits to build in the rocker arm/valve stem gap(where you adjust gap). This might be possible, but never heard of this anywhere else

regards

valve seat wear?
 
I used to have a 97 CRV. Great car, excellent in the snow & great fuel economy. The real time 4wd really does work flawlessly. Did not have a single problem on mine until I sold it at 250,000 km.

The only other problem area on the crv is the rear diff that needs drain & fills even though the manual doesn't mention it.
 
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
The .006" gauge is a pita to work with.


That's why I couldn't figure out why you just didn't get a .005" gauge.
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It's hard to work with because it's so thin and flexible, it's like doing the task with wet papaer. .005" would only be worse. Heck, I could go as thin as .003"! I'm just hoping that my measurments are accurate at .006". The last .001" should not matter, I doubt if my accuracy is that good, plus the intake valves tend to tighten.
 
Break the lash nuts free with a six point socket and ratchet or breaker bar.
Then, you can use a wrench to adjust things normally.
 
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