(Mods, feel free to move to a different forum. This is a sort-of mechanical post, but not about cars)
I threatened to do this a while back, and since I just finished another upgrade today, I figured I'd sit down and make a mega post of what has been done so far.
The trailer: Cherokee Grey Wolf 26DJSE 'Stick and Tin' Construction (IE it has studded walls covered by paneling, this makes some things easier.)
Listed in no Particular order:
1. Morryde CRE2-3000 Suspension and Wet Bolts
Why - The factory shackles, bolts, and bushings are garbage. The bushings are plastic and had already started wearing through by the time I did this upgrade earlier this year with less than 3000 miles on the trailer. Wet bolts allow you to inject grease into the bushings.
Difficulty - Install 5/10 (Lifting and securing the trailer? 8/10 unless you have a some really nice jacks and stands) The actual install is easy. The hardest part is putting the trailer in the air with all 4 wheels off the ground at the same time.
Cost - $179 for the suspension $80 for the wet bolts
Old (right) New (Left)
Before:
After:
2. Tire Upgrade - Carlisle Radial Trail HD
Why - The tires that come with the trailer are rated for 65mph and are, ehh, not great. The Carlisles are not quite as nice as the Goodyear Endurance's, but they're a little more affordable and are probably 90% the tire the GY's are.
Difficulty - 1/10 - I had Tire Rack's Mobile installer stop by. They will not remove the tires from a trailer, but it is super simple to put one or two wheels in the air at a time and let him mount the tires while you shuttle them up and back to his van.
Cost - $89/Tire and $120 for the install
3. Dimming overhead lights
Why - Sometimes you want less light and would prefer to dim the overheads instead of turning them off. Especially useful for the lights over the beds.
Difficulty - 1/10 (For me) - Cherokee uses WAGO connectors for everything, so you just pull the old lights down and put the new ones up. Super easy in my trailer.
Cost - $40/4 Lights - I replaced a total of 8 (Out of 10 that are inside the trailer)
4. New USB Charging Ports
Why - The ones they put in the trailer are SLOW, and sometimes wouldn't even charge our phones properly. The new ones also have a USB-C PD port that the others didn't. New ones to the left and right of the master bed. Also some plug expander style ones in a few other places. We now have probably 20 fast charge/high power USB ports in the thing. If you can't charge your device in our camper, it can't be charged.
Difficulty - 3/10 - I had to 3d print some plates to cover the wider screw holes of the old in wall plates.
Cost - $6ea for the new charging ports $12ea for the plug expanders.
5. Shower Curtain Rod
Why - The factory one runs straight across and doesn't give you a lot of room in the shower. The new one is curved outward and gives some more space so the curtain isn't sticking to you.
Difficulty - 2/10 - Wall inserts and screws
Cost - $35 for the new rod and curtain. You can just get a residential curtain and cut it to fit if you're not picky.
6. Hanging Storage
Why - You need a place to hang things and this trailer came with none.
His and her 4 post coat racks, one on either side of the bed.
2 Posts attached to the back of the bathroom door.
4 Post key rack at the entrance.
Towel rack in the bathroom.
Difficulty - 2/10 - Screws/Screws+Anchors. This is where the 'stick and tin' trailers are an advantage. There are studs in the walls 16 inches on center. If you don't mind the alignment, you can sink your screws into the studs.
7. Gas assist struts for master bed and cabinets.
Why - Holding up cabinet doors and the storage access under the bed is a pain.
Difficulty - 4/10. Mainly just for the bed. You'll have to fabricate some mounting brackets if you want to do it cheaply and not spring for one of the expensive kits. I just needed a couple of chunks of 2x4 and long screws as well as some scrap pieces of wood and wood glue. All stuff I have laying around.
Cost - $25 for the bed shocks and $18 for the cabinets
I threatened to do this a while back, and since I just finished another upgrade today, I figured I'd sit down and make a mega post of what has been done so far.
The trailer: Cherokee Grey Wolf 26DJSE 'Stick and Tin' Construction (IE it has studded walls covered by paneling, this makes some things easier.)
Listed in no Particular order:
1. Morryde CRE2-3000 Suspension and Wet Bolts
Why - The factory shackles, bolts, and bushings are garbage. The bushings are plastic and had already started wearing through by the time I did this upgrade earlier this year with less than 3000 miles on the trailer. Wet bolts allow you to inject grease into the bushings.
Difficulty - Install 5/10 (Lifting and securing the trailer? 8/10 unless you have a some really nice jacks and stands) The actual install is easy. The hardest part is putting the trailer in the air with all 4 wheels off the ground at the same time.
Cost - $179 for the suspension $80 for the wet bolts
Old (right) New (Left)
Before:
After:
2. Tire Upgrade - Carlisle Radial Trail HD
Why - The tires that come with the trailer are rated for 65mph and are, ehh, not great. The Carlisles are not quite as nice as the Goodyear Endurance's, but they're a little more affordable and are probably 90% the tire the GY's are.
Difficulty - 1/10 - I had Tire Rack's Mobile installer stop by. They will not remove the tires from a trailer, but it is super simple to put one or two wheels in the air at a time and let him mount the tires while you shuttle them up and back to his van.
Cost - $89/Tire and $120 for the install
3. Dimming overhead lights
Why - Sometimes you want less light and would prefer to dim the overheads instead of turning them off. Especially useful for the lights over the beds.
Difficulty - 1/10 (For me) - Cherokee uses WAGO connectors for everything, so you just pull the old lights down and put the new ones up. Super easy in my trailer.
Cost - $40/4 Lights - I replaced a total of 8 (Out of 10 that are inside the trailer)
4. New USB Charging Ports
Why - The ones they put in the trailer are SLOW, and sometimes wouldn't even charge our phones properly. The new ones also have a USB-C PD port that the others didn't. New ones to the left and right of the master bed. Also some plug expander style ones in a few other places. We now have probably 20 fast charge/high power USB ports in the thing. If you can't charge your device in our camper, it can't be charged.
Difficulty - 3/10 - I had to 3d print some plates to cover the wider screw holes of the old in wall plates.
Cost - $6ea for the new charging ports $12ea for the plug expanders.
5. Shower Curtain Rod
Why - The factory one runs straight across and doesn't give you a lot of room in the shower. The new one is curved outward and gives some more space so the curtain isn't sticking to you.
Difficulty - 2/10 - Wall inserts and screws
Cost - $35 for the new rod and curtain. You can just get a residential curtain and cut it to fit if you're not picky.
6. Hanging Storage
Why - You need a place to hang things and this trailer came with none.
His and her 4 post coat racks, one on either side of the bed.
2 Posts attached to the back of the bathroom door.
4 Post key rack at the entrance.
Towel rack in the bathroom.
Difficulty - 2/10 - Screws/Screws+Anchors. This is where the 'stick and tin' trailers are an advantage. There are studs in the walls 16 inches on center. If you don't mind the alignment, you can sink your screws into the studs.
7. Gas assist struts for master bed and cabinets.
Why - Holding up cabinet doors and the storage access under the bed is a pain.
Difficulty - 4/10. Mainly just for the bed. You'll have to fabricate some mounting brackets if you want to do it cheaply and not spring for one of the expensive kits. I just needed a couple of chunks of 2x4 and long screws as well as some scrap pieces of wood and wood glue. All stuff I have laying around.
Cost - $25 for the bed shocks and $18 for the cabinets
