UNDERCOATING?? Is it worth it?
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JHZR2
Staff member
That's good info. I had Waxoyl put onto my 82 MB.
How long have you had it on your rover? Have you ever updated or topcoated?
How long have you had it on your rover? Have you ever updated or topcoated?
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
That's good info. I had Waxoyl put onto my 82 MB.
How long have you had it on your rover? Have you ever updated or topcoated?
Has been on Rover since brand new in '99, owned since '01. Never updated or topcoated. It leaves a residue behind once wiped off.
Even with all the constant crawling around under there lately, I won't need a re-application for at least two years. (When wrenching, it will rub it off with some force on your arms. Not much rubbed off even after fighting, for a total of eleven hours, with a cat-back exhaust since I had no help maneuvering the cat-back into place as once piece)
Everything was original. Brake pads, exhaust... But once it hit 140K is when it all started going slowly.
It is work in progress.
That's good info. I had Waxoyl put onto my 82 MB.
How long have you had it on your rover? Have you ever updated or topcoated?
Has been on Rover since brand new in '99, owned since '01. Never updated or topcoated. It leaves a residue behind once wiped off.
Even with all the constant crawling around under there lately, I won't need a re-application for at least two years. (When wrenching, it will rub it off with some force on your arms. Not much rubbed off even after fighting, for a total of eleven hours, with a cat-back exhaust since I had no help maneuvering the cat-back into place as once piece)
Everything was original. Brake pads, exhaust... But once it hit 140K is when it all started going slowly.
It is work in progress.
JHZR2
Staff member
Oh I know it makes a mess when you wipe it on you. But I assume any spray-on product would...
Good info, thanks!
Good info, thanks!
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Oh I know it makes a mess when you wipe it on you. But I assume any spray-on product would...
Good info, thanks!
Yes, it can be a mess...
I have seen some 4WD's and pickups with "rhino liner" type that were trapping water between the liner and frame and liner and bed, rusting away. I don't know if it wasn't prepped properly or what, but Waxoyl is light years better for frames.
EDIT: The only thing I remember coming remotely close for undercarriage was the "OLD" TOYOGUARD on Toyotas. I think it is made/applied again in the US, but not the same formulation as my Yotas ('01 & '06) were supposedly treated with it, but rusting already.
I just looked it up, but it is mentioned as a roadside assistance and also as the undercoating applied as a PIO option. I vaguely remember something about the EPA and the original Toyoguard
Oh I know it makes a mess when you wipe it on you. But I assume any spray-on product would...
Good info, thanks!
Yes, it can be a mess...
I have seen some 4WD's and pickups with "rhino liner" type that were trapping water between the liner and frame and liner and bed, rusting away. I don't know if it wasn't prepped properly or what, but Waxoyl is light years better for frames.
EDIT: The only thing I remember coming remotely close for undercarriage was the "OLD" TOYOGUARD on Toyotas. I think it is made/applied again in the US, but not the same formulation as my Yotas ('01 & '06) were supposedly treated with it, but rusting already.
I just looked it up, but it is mentioned as a roadside assistance and also as the undercoating applied as a PIO option. I vaguely remember something about the EPA and the original Toyoguard
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Hey, wait a minute. Waxoyl, isn't that old tech? Fifty years at least!
http://www.waxoyl-usa.com/
Just kidding guys, if it works, why not!
http://www.waxoyl-usa.com/
Just kidding guys, if it works, why not!
Originally Posted By: jcwit
Hey, wait a minute. Waxoyl, isn't that old tech? Fifty years at least!
http://www.waxoyl-usa.com/
Just kidding guys, if it works, why not!
Supposedly, they are not an easy company to please as far as application of said product.
Any old Joe can grab some rubberized undercoating (FlexSeal they sell on TV for $10/can)
or "rhino liner" and spray it on without proper prep and give a product a bad rep.
I have seen properly prepped and applied rhino liner bubble up and hold/trap water within two-three years.
I see my '99 Rust Belt Rover daily, and zero rust. (Body mostly, if not fully, aluminum though. Depends on year)
Hey, wait a minute. Waxoyl, isn't that old tech? Fifty years at least!
http://www.waxoyl-usa.com/
Just kidding guys, if it works, why not!
Supposedly, they are not an easy company to please as far as application of said product.
Any old Joe can grab some rubberized undercoating (FlexSeal they sell on TV for $10/can)
or "rhino liner" and spray it on without proper prep and give a product a bad rep.
I have seen properly prepped and applied rhino liner bubble up and hold/trap water within two-three years.
I see my '99 Rust Belt Rover daily, and zero rust. (Body mostly, if not fully, aluminum though. Depends on year)
I might add something I have used over the years directly behind the wheels is Roof Cement. I also check it in the spring right after the winter. I only use it in the wear areas. I've never had a problem with it adhearing or bubbling but I keep an eye on it just the same.
Originally Posted By: jcwit
I might add something I have used over the years directly behind the wheels is Roof Cement.
Like Karnak???
If so, That is something I never thought of. Nice.
I appreciate that idea.
Does it harden and crack like on a roof?
Do you scrape it off? Remelt? or just apply over the old stuff?
__________________________________________________________
O.T, but may be useful to someone searching and while I am thinking about roofing and cars at the same time
(I did a little experiment with sound deadening with a roofing product called Peel & Seal vs. bitumen based sound deadener like SecondSkin and Dynamat, and P&S didn't last two summers before it peeled off and SecondSkin in same vehicle still holding tight)
I might add something I have used over the years directly behind the wheels is Roof Cement.
Like Karnak???
If so, That is something I never thought of. Nice.
I appreciate that idea.
Does it harden and crack like on a roof?
Do you scrape it off? Remelt? or just apply over the old stuff?
__________________________________________________________
O.T, but may be useful to someone searching and while I am thinking about roofing and cars at the same time
(I did a little experiment with sound deadening with a roofing product called Peel & Seal vs. bitumen based sound deadener like SecondSkin and Dynamat, and P&S didn't last two summers before it peeled off and SecondSkin in same vehicle still holding tight)
Stuff I use stays flexable, and like I say I keep an eye on it. I do my own oil changes so its not a big deal to check it. Usually get it at Menards or Lowes.
JHZR2
Staff member
Please do post a brand/model/part when you have a chance.
OK, This is what I last used, put it on last year and still holding up. I didn't list anything as its just common roof cement. I do not think I would put it over the whole undercarriage as its way to hard to keep up with, But for right behind the wheels where the road grit and small stones hit it works well for me. We still have bunches of dirt roads here in rural Indiana.
http://www.menards.com/main/building-mat...y/p-1461274.htm
http://www.menards.com/main/building-mat...y/p-1461274.htm
http://www.karnakcorp.com/
This is what I am most familiar with for roofing http://www.karnakcorp.com/P_RP_RMTapes.aspx Scroll down to 19AF.
It stays pliable for years, but does dry, harden and crack.
And made in New Jersey, so it's pretty much everywhere and why I really don't see much else.
.
______________________________________________________
Just tried to PM this to you JCWIT, but you are not accepting PM's
you got me thinking instead of sleeping, but this is a waterproof "fabric" that is tough as anything and [censored] new impossible even applied cold to get off of plate steel and asphalt/tarmac/concrete...
For a 4' x 8' section, it takes about 15 minutes with a 175,000 BTU torch and front end loader on pavement (being careful not to scorch blacktop or pop concrete, and about 25 mins for the same 4ft x 8ft piece on those metal plates you may see on a road, which is more or less burned and scraped off. So, it adheres pretty much forever to metal. (sound deadening idea popping into my head)
Petrotac http://www.nilex.com/products/paving/petrotac
If you can get bare steel, this could be a long term solution, but you would need light heat and a small wooden roller to make sure the adhesive touches everything. Just an idea
This is what I am most familiar with for roofing http://www.karnakcorp.com/P_RP_RMTapes.aspx Scroll down to 19AF.
It stays pliable for years, but does dry, harden and crack.
And made in New Jersey, so it's pretty much everywhere and why I really don't see much else.
.
______________________________________________________
Just tried to PM this to you JCWIT, but you are not accepting PM's
you got me thinking instead of sleeping, but this is a waterproof "fabric" that is tough as anything and [censored] new impossible even applied cold to get off of plate steel and asphalt/tarmac/concrete...
For a 4' x 8' section, it takes about 15 minutes with a 175,000 BTU torch and front end loader on pavement (being careful not to scorch blacktop or pop concrete, and about 25 mins for the same 4ft x 8ft piece on those metal plates you may see on a road, which is more or less burned and scraped off. So, it adheres pretty much forever to metal. (sound deadening idea popping into my head)
Petrotac http://www.nilex.com/products/paving/petrotac
If you can get bare steel, this could be a long term solution, but you would need light heat and a small wooden roller to make sure the adhesive touches everything. Just an idea
JHZR2
Staff member
Thanks jcwit and OilFool!
Originally Posted By: jcwit
OK, This is what I last used, put it on last year and still holding up. I didn't list anything as its just common roof cement. I do not think I would put it over the whole undercarriage as its way to hard to keep up with, But for right behind the wheels where the road grit and small stones hit it works well for me. We still have bunches of dirt roads here in rural Indiana.
http://www.menards.com/main/building-mat...y/p-1461274.htm
Any fears of moisture getting trapped under it from small pin holes or cracks in it?
I like the idea of wax like oil. The Amsoil HD Metal Protector works well, and you can actually see if anything is going on. It would be nice if it came in gallons to be spray applied with a gun.
OK, This is what I last used, put it on last year and still holding up. I didn't list anything as its just common roof cement. I do not think I would put it over the whole undercarriage as its way to hard to keep up with, But for right behind the wheels where the road grit and small stones hit it works well for me. We still have bunches of dirt roads here in rural Indiana.
http://www.menards.com/main/building-mat...y/p-1461274.htm
Any fears of moisture getting trapped under it from small pin holes or cracks in it?
I like the idea of wax like oil. The Amsoil HD Metal Protector works well, and you can actually see if anything is going on. It would be nice if it came in gallons to be spray applied with a gun.
Originally Posted By: OilFool
Yes, it can be a mess...
I have seen some 4WD's and pickups with "rhino liner" type that were trapping water between the liner and frame and liner and bed, rusting away. I don't know if it wasn't prepped properly or what, but Waxoyl is light years better for frames.
EDIT: The only thing I remember coming remotely close for undercarriage was the "OLD" TOYOGUARD on Toyotas. I think it is made/applied again in the US, but not the same formulation as my Yotas ('01 & '06) were supposedly treated with it, but rusting already.
I just looked it up, but it is mentioned as a roadside assistance and also as the undercoating applied as a PIO option. I vaguely remember something about the EPA and the original Toyoguard
Toyota used Noxudol 300 for the frame campaign. Does anyone know how this stuff holds up? How does it compare to Waxoyl?
http://www.noxudolusa.com/rust_protection/Rust_Protection.html
Yes, it can be a mess...
I have seen some 4WD's and pickups with "rhino liner" type that were trapping water between the liner and frame and liner and bed, rusting away. I don't know if it wasn't prepped properly or what, but Waxoyl is light years better for frames.
EDIT: The only thing I remember coming remotely close for undercarriage was the "OLD" TOYOGUARD on Toyotas. I think it is made/applied again in the US, but not the same formulation as my Yotas ('01 & '06) were supposedly treated with it, but rusting already.
I just looked it up, but it is mentioned as a roadside assistance and also as the undercoating applied as a PIO option. I vaguely remember something about the EPA and the original Toyoguard
Toyota used Noxudol 300 for the frame campaign. Does anyone know how this stuff holds up? How does it compare to Waxoyl?
http://www.noxudolusa.com/rust_protection/Rust_Protection.html
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: jcwit
OK, This is what I last used, put it on last year and still holding up. I didn't list anything as its just common roof cement. I do not think I would put it over the whole undercarriage as its way to hard to keep up with, But for right behind the wheels where the road grit and small stones hit it works well for me. We still have bunches of dirt roads here in rural Indiana.
http://www.menards.com/main/building-mat...y/p-1461274.htm
Any fears of moisture getting trapped under it from small pin holes or cracks in it?
I like the idea of wax like oil. The Amsoil HD Metal Protector works well, and you can actually see if anything is going on. It would be nice if it came in gallons to be spray applied with a gun.
This is why I've always keep such a close eye on it checking how it adheared etc. Also why I used it at the wear area, where it would need to be reapplied as necessary due to sand, gravel, etc wearing it off.
Originally Posted By: jcwit
OK, This is what I last used, put it on last year and still holding up. I didn't list anything as its just common roof cement. I do not think I would put it over the whole undercarriage as its way to hard to keep up with, But for right behind the wheels where the road grit and small stones hit it works well for me. We still have bunches of dirt roads here in rural Indiana.
http://www.menards.com/main/building-mat...y/p-1461274.htm
Any fears of moisture getting trapped under it from small pin holes or cracks in it?
I like the idea of wax like oil. The Amsoil HD Metal Protector works well, and you can actually see if anything is going on. It would be nice if it came in gallons to be spray applied with a gun.
This is why I've always keep such a close eye on it checking how it adheared etc. Also why I used it at the wear area, where it would need to be reapplied as necessary due to sand, gravel, etc wearing it off.
Originally Posted By: satinsilver
Ok I just went to ziebarts website. They have two different services. Rust protection which sounds ideal and the Undercoating. Two different things.
Rust protection: Yes
Undercoating: No
More about the Rust protection process:
http://www.ziebart.com/ziebart---home/protection/rust-protection
They use something called Rust Eliminator:
http://www.ziebart.com/ziebart---home/protection/rust-eliminator
I wouldn't trust Zeibart with the sweat off my ****s. They hosed me big time in NOT honoring their warranty. I pledged at the time to do all I could to prevent anyone else from being taken advantage of - this is my most recent opportunity.
Ok I just went to ziebarts website. They have two different services. Rust protection which sounds ideal and the Undercoating. Two different things.
Rust protection: Yes
Undercoating: No
More about the Rust protection process:
http://www.ziebart.com/ziebart---home/protection/rust-protection
They use something called Rust Eliminator:
http://www.ziebart.com/ziebart---home/protection/rust-eliminator
I wouldn't trust Zeibart with the sweat off my ****s. They hosed me big time in NOT honoring their warranty. I pledged at the time to do all I could to prevent anyone else from being taken advantage of - this is my most recent opportunity.
Last car I took to Ziebart I had the complete service done, at least thats what I paid for. Few months later I had a spring break in the inner door locking mechanism, the body man who knows me personally called me and asked if I didn't have the inner doors sprayed. Bingo, none of the inner panels were sprayed, just drilled and plugged.
Ziebart, never ever again.
Ziebart, never ever again.
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