Toyota's reasoning for 0w20 viscosity engine oil

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Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
OK I haven't posted in some time but I have been running two 2010 toyotas(new roller 1grfe in both) on the 0w20 at factory intervals from the start.
I ran my wifes 4 runner for 10k on the factory fill and it has been refiled once with mobil 1 0w20. My FJ cruiser went 7500 miles and a year was up so I went to the dealer and they refilled with Mobil 1 0w20.

I have no issues with the brands(toyota label-vs-mobil 1) the factory is paying for the first couple of changes(or I did up front
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I used to read all the white papers and perrform UOA's and really invest to much time in lubrication when it is not my profesion.

I pay for a car that gives me 10k oci's. I go 10k and stop worrying. Could there be a problem? yes. Could I get cancer? yes. I think I will worry less and live more. Thank's guys for keeping up the debate, makes for good reads.


I completely agree. I do 10K OCIs in every engine I have owned since 1978 without expensive UOAs. To date, I haven't had a single internal engine problem.
 
Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
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Life is good, good oil lasts a long time in a properly running engine. And BITOG will hash out all the details, factual or not.

Bryan, you actually went 7500 on the original fill?
I am now just researching what to do. I`ve heard of so many changing the first oil early, 3-4K then the longer 10K drain interval... I plan on using Amsoil in the 2011 FJ with OEM filters and changing oil at 5K intervals bc of towing.
 
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Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Cost factors aside, could the PAO/GTL mixes actually be superior to (performance-wise) PAO/Ester basestocks???
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Yes, I think GTL basestocks are far superior to Group V basestocks, with much lower NOACK volatility, comparable to NOACK of PAO.
The main reason Group V basestocks are used is to stabilize PAO and increase PAO's solvency.

GTL is still a GP III oil and won't sub-plant GP V Esters in high performance high temperature applications.
 
Originally Posted By: PaleRider
Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
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Life is good, good oil lasts a long time in a properly running engine. And BITOG will hash out all the details, factual or not.

Bryan, you actually went 7500 on the original fill?
I am now just researching what to do. I`ve heard of so many changing the first oil early, 3-4K then the longer 10K drain interval... I plan on using Amsoil in the 2011 FJ with OEM filters and changing oil at 5K intervals bc of towing.


I ran my FJ to 7500 (it was a year)this included mountains, and offroad trips including the alpine loop(including the mineral creek portion), Imogene Pass and running around in the glade.
I didn't give it a second thought.I have previous experience with UOA's running a jeep 7500 miles in the same environment on conventional 5w20. As far as factory fill goes, best use that good oil to the best of it's ability. Toyota put some great 0w20 in at the factory and I don't worry about the old break in myth. If it was an issue Toyota, BMW, Honda would all recomend early oil changes on factory, none do and they are legendary engine makers.

Since you are towing (i assume regularly to accept the takeoff)if it were mine I would run the factory to 5k and change it at that interval there after. My wifes 2010 4 runner is driven for alot of trips so we ran tat original fill to 10k, changes again at 20k, No sweat.
 
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Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
Originally Posted By: PaleRider
Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
cheers3.gif


Life is good, good oil lasts a long time in a properly running engine. And BITOG will hash out all the details, factual or not.

Bryan, you actually went 7500 on the original fill?
I am now just researching what to do. I`ve heard of so many changing the first oil early, 3-4K then the longer 10K drain interval... I plan on using Amsoil in the 2011 FJ with OEM filters and changing oil at 5K intervals bc of towing.


I ran my FJ to 7500 (it was a year)this included mountains, and offroad trips including the alpine loop(including the mineral creek portion), Imogene Pass and running around in the glade.
I didn't give it a second thought.I have previous experience with UOA's running a jeep 7500 miles in the same environment on conventional 5w20. As far as factory fill goes, best use that good oil to the best of it's ability. Toyota put some great 0w20 in at the factory and I don't worry about the old break in myth. If it was an issue Toyota, BMW, Honda would all recomend early oil changes on factory, none do and they are legendary engine makers.

Since you are towing (i assume regularly to accept the takeoff)if it were mine I would run the factory to 5k and change it at that interval there after. My wifes 2010 4 runner is driven for alot of trips so we ran tat original fill to 10k, changes again at 20k, No sweat.


Thank you for the quick reply Bryan. We put on close to 500 miles before I towed the (850#) waverunner for the last few rides of the season. I won`t be towing again till the springtime, so I have some time yet before I change the oil... we now have 2400+ on the FJ. I agree after reading into the Toyota 0w20 SN I believe it could go the distance. I was an AMSOIL user a few years ago when long drain intervals was warranted. Now I see the synthetic is what`s used now in these new 2010+ Toyota`s. We have the 2 year or 25K oil service from Toyota, so I will let them do the normal maintenance and I`ll do these 5k OCI`s in between.
Wheelin with your FJ, cool! Lots of FJ`s wheelin in your neck of the woods! We have sand/beach and lots of water here!
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Thanks for the relpy!
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That's what they are for, wheeling, playing and utility. I didn't always live in the mountains, I used to do alot of beach driving(fishing) on Padre Island in texas, 4x4 required. Enjoy your FJ you have a good plan.
 
Thank you and Happy Holidays to you and your family!
just completed a Toytec 3" lift, Nitto`s, raceline wheels, TRD exhaust, you know how it goes...lol... Snow will be here soon, can`t wait to wheel in the pines, Thanks again!...
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