This is why i use PureOne Oil filters-12k miles

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Some of you may recall my last PureOne filter(RIPPED OPENED) thread:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...948#Post2550948

This Purolator PureOne 14610 filter came off my sister's 2006 acura tsx. My sister drives about 60-75% local. I put this filter on at 47,500 along with g-oil 5w-30. At 54,600, i changed the oil with quakerstate synthetic 5w-30 and LEFT the pureone oil filter alone. This past weekend at 59,500, i changed the oil with Valvoline Synpower 5w-30 with a new PureOne filter.

This $5-6 filter looks amazing at 12k miles and for sure is definitely capable of going further, a lot further. There were no torn pleats and the ADBV was very pliable. I would not hesitate it to run it up to 15k miles. It's right up there with those extended drain filters in my opinion.
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I had Pep Boys house brand filter Proline in my LS400 for full year OCI to about 14-15k miles. I had been using other oil filters for full year without any problems. I think any oil filter, Fram included, can be used for up to 14-15k miles in a clean engine.

Of the 2 filters, air is more importance than oil.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Of the 2 filters, air is more importance than oil.


I second that!

Any particular reason you jumped from G-Oil to Quaker State to Valvoline? Are you getting UOAs?
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Nice report! Points out what we see a lot that most products can go longer. Seems to me all the mfrs underestimate filter life. Is that CYA (because they can't account for all the bad situations when it couldn't go 10-12K) or wanting to sell more fitlers. Both, probably.

HTSS_TR: You make a good point. The intake is where the outside environment can come in.
 
Originally Posted By: garlicbreadman
anyone notice one side of the end cap is not metal?


My guess would be that the glue seaprated from the metal end cap but looks like it is still holdng tight to the media. That would be the important part to me.
 
I missed that first time around!

I was able to pop the metal off a virgin autopsy P1 pretty easily but the potting was intact. At my recent Fram tour, this was addressed because they had one there too. Not sure what brand it was (Wix I think) but the engineering folks said that as long as the potting was intact, the metal was still there for support and the element was being "sandwiched" together by the spring, it was a no-worries deal.

There are filters that have no metal at all, just using a polymer that doubles as endcap and potting. And then there's engineered fiber. It all works.
 
Originally Posted By: cp3
Originally Posted By: garlicbreadman
anyone notice one side of the end cap is not metal?


My guess would be that the glue seaprated from the metal end cap but looks like it is still holdng tight to the media. That would be the important part to me.


+1 ... the end cap popped off the black goo that seals the end of the pleats.
 
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Of the 2 filters, air is more importance than oil.


I second that!

Most definitely. Just swapped out my air filter and my car runs smoother. Previous air filter was so clogged it felt like the engine was choking.
 
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