Thinking rod knock, flex plate and/or TC, you say

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Rod Knock will get progressively worse sounding during decel.

Flex plate will sound worse during idle

Something rattling around or hitting things will sound mostly all the time.
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
So you're working on the S-10 again...what happened to the Taurus? A lot of us were invested in that car...


Yes, on the Taurus (no longer in the Sig,) I learned to never sell someone a car with the promise that they will come back with the other half tomorrow.
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And if anyone in/near Penndel or Philadelphia PA or closeby NJ area wants a Volvo to work on, please let me know, as I am wrestling with this. (Needs engine work, the rest is great.)

Maybe a BITOGer will want it. If not, I'm towing it back to NJ. Somehow.

I love this car, just floating it before I:
a. Get a tow hitch hooked up to the S-10 Blazer, how much would it cost and where can I get it done?
b. Pay ~$300 total for someone else to, complete with U-haul car transport.. $400 at absolute most.

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Originally Posted By: eljefino


PS that's actually a pretty nice blazer vs those up here. Little rust, shiny paint.


+1

I don't think I've seen one that clean around here in 10 years.
 
Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
Originally Posted By: eljefino


PS that's actually a pretty nice blazer vs those up here. Little rust, shiny paint.


+1

I don't think I've seen one that clean around here in 10 years.


Why, thank you both!
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The BLAZER is certainly a keeper. So, once again, I will have two cars. (They are in the sig.)

Dumb Q: Could my noise be a catalytic converter?

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Oh, and btw: This Blazer is in the image of the Blazer that came before it.

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Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
I was able to change the cracked grill when the engine was out,


Is it a Weber, Char-Broil, etc?
 
I want to ultimately have the Volvo look like this (kind of)

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However, the Blazer will never look like this.

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** Maybe the bars but nothing else.
 
Originally Posted By: yonyon
So what happened to the Volvo? Did the timing belt let go or something?


Milkshake oil. TB is fine, and I am thinking I *may* have compression; mine is reluctant to start, bu tit does, and it starts and runs, just I have to keep giving it gas. Going to get all the tools, to see.

(Never got water pump fixed, drove a month or two, then head gasket, is my guess. I am just wondering if I can show compression on a gauge with a blown HG. Unsure...)
 
Maybe it would be good to deal with that first before worrying too much about the noise in the Blazer. It's a terrible nuisance I'm sure, but by the sound of it it isn't causing any real damage.

If you'd had the Blazer up and running you wouldn't have had to drive the Volvo with a bad water pump. You've already got a second vehicle so to get it in operating condition means you always have something to fall back on if one of them breaks. That can save you time, money, and stress. That head gasket job will cost a lot more than eliminating the rub noise, but it should still be a higher priority.
 
I didn't realize the new season started already.

I feel like I missed something. So the Volvo is back in the picture, thought the Taurus replaced that ?
 
Originally Posted By: cmorr
I didn't realize the new season started already.

I feel like I missed something. So the Volvo is back in the picture, thought the Taurus replaced that ?


Taurus is sold, I got half the money
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Got the Volvo for free.

How far away is Exeter from Penndel?

Originally Posted By: eljefino
New volvo is better than the old volvo.


I agree!

I think I am going to try the guide, and compression test it to see what I am dealing with and if its just head gasket, or if I need a head from http://www.cylinder-heads.com

Oh and there was just water in there at time of milkshake oil and the oil isnt even all that milkshake-y, no antifreeze for the bearings. so it just takes awhile to catch, then I have to keep giving it gas to stay running.. Almost like a fuel pump, as I have to coax it to start.

Maybe I dodged a bullet.....

Today/tomorrow, the silver 99 comes from Penndel, PA to NNJ.

R.I.Pieces., 2000 white Volvo.
 
Originally Posted By: yonyon
Maybe it would be good to deal with that first before worrying too much about the noise in the Blazer. It's a terrible nuisance I'm sure, but by the sound of it it isn't causing any real damage.

If you'd had the Blazer up and running you wouldn't have had to drive the Volvo with a bad water pump. You've already got a second vehicle so to get it in operating condition means you always have something to fall back on if one of them breaks. That can save you time, money, and stress. That head gasket job will cost a lot more than eliminating the rub noise, but it should still be a higher priority.


I am inclined to agree...

I have my tool in the Volvo, so I can look for it with that (my nice 1/2" drive Teardrop ratchet that cost like $20.) I just get freaked out with the noise the Blazer makes, but you are right, its gaskets and WP and Timing Chain are all perfect, whereas I turned a simple water pump job into "compression test, needs head gasket, will see if it needs head."

Learning experiences here! The Volvo will be sitting until I see if I earned motor work or dodged a bullet with it on compression, yes.

Did anyone ever play the game Spy Hunter? Because if you are familiar with the "Oil Slick" thing the car can do.. A big huge cloud of grey smoke came out of the back, so that I couldnt even see behind me on the highway, and when I pulled ot the side of the road there was oil shooting out of the dipstick, as the dipstick had begun to come loose from its thing, causing the oil pressure light to come on. Not sure what that is about, but, apparently I get to clean/replace PCV stuff when I do the teardown in
http://atthetipwebs.com/technologyin...ead_gasket.htm
For its water pump: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/wat...placement.html (oversimplified??) <--- 3 steps for a WP job? Really? ...
 
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