The switch from Honda ATF Z1 to DW-1.... issues.

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Originally Posted By: 2K5TSX
Acura Canada uses a grey bottle.. I think it might even be the same as what the US uses.

http://rdx.acurazine.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=8447&pictureid=42141

http://rdx.acurazine.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=8447&pictureid=42142


That is exactly the same bottle as you get from an Acura dealer in the US. I bought one bottle of it prior to last weekend from an Acura dealer in North Carolina.

That leads me to believe even more that the Honda Canada version is the same fluid in a different bottle with a different label. I'm not sure why the Honda Canada DW-1 be any different from the Acura Canada DW-1, which appears to be the same as the Acura US DW-1.
 
the DW-1 i saw at Acura dealer is also in 1L bottle, with label of Full synthetic, and "ultra low viscosity" just like Honda DW1. if Honda sell synthetic motor oil, then why not label it on the ATF, especially since Canada has it already. i am not sure, Honda had done many weir thing lately. Ultra low viscosity forumla may cause the jerk shifting in 2K5TSX?
 
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Originally Posted By: 2K5TSX
Acura Canada uses a grey bottle.. I think it might even be the same as what the US uses.

http://rdx.acurazine.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=8447&pictureid=42141

http://rdx.acurazine.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=8447&pictureid=42142


That is exactly the same bottle as you get from an Acura dealer in the US. I bought one bottle of it prior to last weekend from an Acura dealer in North Carolina.

That leads me to believe even more that the Honda Canada version is the same fluid in a different bottle with a different label. I'm not sure why the Honda Canada DW-1 be any different from the Acura Canada DW-1, which appears to be the same as the Acura US DW-1.


Sorry I tried my best to find a Canadian Acura DW-1 bottle.. the ones pictured are likely American bottles also.

So US market = DW-1 with no ultra low viscosity / Full Synthetic label..

Canada Market Ultra low / Full Synthetic printed on the label.

According to Honda tech line (per google search) they claim its a different formula.
 
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
What's the best procedure in doing this on a 2008 CRV? Shift through the gears, drain, fill to the low mark, shift through the gears again while the engine is still running then add as necessary or is it better to shut the engine off then add.?


Drain the transmission and refill the quantity that you drained. On my MDX, that was 3 quarts. I haven't done it yet on my CR-V, but I believe it is the same. Then shift through all the gears, ride around the block, and do it again. Then do the same procedure again, for a total of three drain/fills. This is how the Honda service manual says to do it.

That's vaguely how I did it in the MDX, though I only did one drain/fill at a time. I drove it for 500 miles then did another one last weekend. I'll probably do another one in another 4,500 miles at the next oil change. I plan to do one drain/fill at each oil change on the CR-V also, until I do it a few times, then I'll keep on a drain/fill schedule of every 15k miles from then out. That's replacing approximately 1/3rd of the fluid every 15k miles, which I think is reasonable.

On the CR-V, you fill the transmission through the dipstick tube, so be sure to get a funnel with a thin and long neck to reach down there.

Thanks. This weekend ill be doing it. I got a case through H and A.
 
In the absence of any real data, I've been assuming (based on Honda's recommendations) that DW-1 would have very similar friction properties to Z1, but with better oxidation and viscosity stability. So I'm surprised to hear that people are noticing changes in shift feel.

I guess this isn't unprecedented, though. Some people (myself included) have not been happy with the changes in shift-feel after switching from DexIII to DexVI in our GM transmissions. Thing is, GM has volunteered that the friction charactaristics of DexVI are at least somewhat different from DexIII ("improved anti-shudder properties"). So I guess it shouldn't be completely surprising that shifts FEEL somewhat different. There's no reason to think that Honda didn't make a similar change with DW-1... although without any sort of data, we're only guessing.

Speaking of guessing... I would LOVE to dump some Transynd into my 2004 Accord's 5at. Transynd says on the bottle that it meets the DexIIIG spec, and Honda's owner's manual says that I can put DexIII into my 5at... it only cautions that shift feel may suffer. Just haven't been able to talk myself into it yet. To me DW-1 seems like a safe bet. And considering the price of these Honda transmissions, I haven't been able to bring myself to experiment yet. Maybe one of these days.
 
Just got done changing the fluid twice with DW1. The stuff that came out was pretty dirty but still had a red hue to it. I drained it, filled with three qrts, started the engine till the fan came one which took about 5-10 mins. Shut the engine off, check the fluid level. I had to add about a half of a qrt. Total it came to 3.5 qrts. Pretty simple. In about 1200 miles since that will put me at the 60K mark ill do it again. After that ill follow the 15K intervals.
 
I have a really hard time reading the AT dipstick on my Honda Pilot.

It is very hard to read.

Anybody have any tricks, or is there an aftermarket dipstick or an easier way to read it?

When I do a drain and fill I just use 3.5 quarts, as recomended, and then check the dipstick, which seems okay on one side and the other side has fluid all over it or no fluid at all.

I am slowly replacing all Z fluid with DW-1, at every oil change, whick for me is about 3 and half months ( I follow MM, but I guess severe driving, cu=ity driving short trips etc).
 
Last edited:
RegDunlop, it can be hard to read, you just have to look at it against some direct light to see where the liquid level starts and where the stick is dry. It's hard to tell by color, especially if you have recent fluid in there.

ARB1977, how does your CR-V shift now with some DW-1 in it? My parents-in-law just bought a 2011 CR-V and it shifts incredibly smooth; better than mine. The dealer had changed the ATF in mine before I bought it, so I know it has new fluid in there. I think the difference is DW-1. Their 2011 has it and mine has Z-1.
 
I got DW-1 in my RDX and went on a 600km trip this weekend and it was butter smooth. My uncle was co passenger (as with the rest of the family in the back seat) and all he said was this truck is smooth and perfect for long trips.

I use the paddle shifters a bit when I need to downshift and get some power on the up hills (2.3L turbo 4 cyl with 5 heavy ppl in it!) and again manual down shift is smooth, I can't even feel the downshift I gotta look the number on the dash and the revs to figure out it has down shifted!

DW-1 is what I'll be using in this vehicle, I buy em by the case loads and change it out every 25K.
 
I did a drain and fill in my 2000 CR-V with DW-1 and the AT shifts much more smoothly now. Before, it was shifting harshly from 1st to 2nd.

Will not be leaving it in there for 90,000 miles. Don't care what the manual says. 2 years at most.

fiddler
 
This smoother shifting thing is what prompts me to want to move from Z1 to Valvoline or Mobil 1 since I am down to my last three quarts of Z1. Smoother shifting can mean more wear, the harder a trans shifts, generally the less wear. Smooth often means clutch slip.
 
I've done one drain & fill with DW-1 on the wife's 2004 Accord... maybe 10K miles ago. I haven't noticed any difference at all in shift feel.
 
Originally Posted By: clearanceman
This smoother shifting thing is what prompts me to want to move from Z1 to Valvoline or Mobil 1 since I am down to my last three quarts of Z1. Smoother shifting can mean more wear, the harder a trans shifts, generally the less wear. Smooth often means clutch slip.


I'm pretty sure feeling your car jerk while shifting is not a sign that there is less wear on your transmission. Following your logic, when the transmission hasn't been serviced at all is when there is less wear. Which means that the transmission should not fail. Funny thing is it often does, must be shifting "too smoothly" with no wear.

fiddler
 
No, the harder it shifts, the less slip of the clutches. It might not feel as nice but it's not slipping the clutches as much. I once had an electroinic problem with my Subaru where it would flash the ATF light and shift horribly hard, the mechanic said well as least you weren't wearing the transmission although it would almost knock me out of my seat it shifted so hard. It was unbearable but apparently no slip of the clutches.
 
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