the dreaded RUST!

[Trav]

These two product are the best in the business when properly applied with this typ eof gun and wands.
These products are not cheap, they work better than any oil or way oil spray coating.
They don't harden, chip, peel, drip and are self healing.
They last 7+ years before needing reapplication on exposed parts, on internal panels almost infinite. You get what you pay for, 5 gal will do 3 cars doing it right.

http://www.eastwood.com/prof-undercoating-gun.html?reltype=3

http://www.theruststore.com/Cortec-VpCI-368D-P83C28.aspx

http://www.zipchem.com/products/product_detail.aspx?id=NjY=

 

[Whimsey]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: Whimsey
Kept on top of the rust in my 2002 F-150 every year. About 5 years ago the bottom of the doors and tailgate showed signs of rust at the seams. I had that taken care of. Then NJ started using a salt brine mixture in addition to the rock salt and within 2 years the bed started rotting out rapidly where body supports meet it on the bottom sides of the bed. It's common rust areas in this body style Ford F-150. I'm slowing the rust down but once it starts you can't stop it, you can only slow it's progression at best.

Whimsey


You can stop it, i did on my old Grand Prix but it takes cutting out entire sections of the car. I did both inner and outer panels and doorsills, lots of sand blasting and weld through galvanizing. That was 7 years ago and nothing, not even a bubble.

Doing that kind of work at $125 an hour would cost a fortune. From start to back on the road 100 hrs for both sides inc paint.
I wouldn't do it again, its one of those thing, you know, your in up to your eyes and you have to finish it.


I like my truck a lot but not enough to spend $12500 on a truck that will be 13 years old in December

. I'll just keep slowing the rust progression down the best I can each summer/fall. It's a challenge at this point in time to minimize the rust damage.

Whimsey

 

[Robertslowpoke]

thanks! i met the guy at the auto body shop today. well recommended by many. he was very honest. he said i was right to do undercarriage wash during winter.

he found the SMALL amount of rust by the wheel well my friend saw, and then went to the bottom of each door, lifted up the rubber gasket, and found rust there, on 3 of the 4 doors. ugh.
he did not try to sell me anything,and said it would be 3 days and $400 to $500 to fix, quite well, all 3 doors and the wheel well.

he said he cannot guarantee it would last, but said it should last 3 years.

OK, paying $500 for 3 years is better than paying $500/month for a new car!
my plan: have him fix it, and inspect car every spring.

my car has 54,000 miles on it, very very clean, and is paid off. i want to keep it.

THANKS GUYS for all your great help!
bob

 

[Whimsey]

Originally Posted By: Robertslowpoke
thanks! i met the guy at the auto body shop today. well recommended by many. he was very honest. he said i was right to do undercarriage wash during winter.

he found the SMALL amount of rust by the wheel well my friend saw, and then went to the bottom of each door, lifted up the rubber gasket, and found rust there, on 3 of the 4 doors. ugh.
he did not try to sell me anything,and said it would be 3 days and $400 to $500 to fix, quite well, all 3 doors and the wheel well.

he said he cannot guarantee it would last, but said it should last 3 years.

OK, paying $500 for 3 years is better than paying $500/month for a new car!
my plan: have him fix it, and inspect car every spring.

my car has 54,000 miles on it, very very clean, and is paid off. i want to keep it.

THANKS GUYS for all your great help!
bob




I'd go for it. Anything reasonable to keep the rust from spreading rapidly is good. It's cheaper to slow the spread of rust early then to pay for a new vehicle.

Whimsey

 

[grampi]

I can't believe in this day and age there isn't something else that can be used in place of salt that is both non-corrosive and affordable...

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: Whimsey
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: Whimsey
Kept on top of the rust in my 2002 F-150 every year. About 5 years ago the bottom of the doors and tailgate showed signs of rust at the seams. I had that taken care of. Then NJ started using a salt brine mixture in addition to the rock salt and within 2 years the bed started rotting out rapidly where body supports meet it on the bottom sides of the bed. It's common rust areas in this body style Ford F-150. I'm slowing the rust down but once it starts you can't stop it, you can only slow it's progression at best.

Whimsey


You can stop it, i did on my old Grand Prix but it takes cutting out entire sections of the car. I did both inner and outer panels and doorsills, lots of sand blasting and weld through galvanizing. That was 7 years ago and nothing, not even a bubble.

Doing that kind of work at $125 an hour would cost a fortune. From start to back on the road 100 hrs for both sides inc paint.
I wouldn't do it again, its one of those thing, you know, your in up to your eyes and you have to finish it.


I like my truck a lot but not enough to spend $12500 on a truck that will be 13 years old in December

. I'll just keep slowing the rust progression down the best I can each summer/fall. It's a challenge at this point in time to minimize the rust damage.

Whimsey


Glad i don't charge myself labor.

 

[VNTS]

I paint the underside of every car I buy when I first buy it. Use the eastwoods Rust Encapsulator, top coat with chasis black. Then hit is with the heavy duty Rust inhibitor. Also spray the internal frame coating in all the rockers, subframes etc

lastly I flood the inside of the doors, hatches, deck lids etc with fluid film, also used it in the rockers/subframes after hitting them with internal frame coating.

once a year, touch up the underside if needed. Also pull the inner fender liners and paint/apply the inhibitors there too.

Cars have regresed since the 80s IMHO as far body integrity, suppose it may be the chemicals applied on the roads, but see a lot of 5 yr old cars with rust in the wheel wells, rockers, lower doors etc


Originally Posted By: Trav
These two product are the best in the business when properly applied with this typ eof gun and wands.
These products are not cheap, they work better than any oil or way oil spray coating.
They don't harden, chip, peel, drip and are self healing.
They last 7+ years before needing reapplication on exposed parts, on internal panels almost infinite. You get what you pay for, 5 gal will do 3 cars doing it right.

http://www.eastwood.com/prof-undercoating-gun.html?reltype=3

http://www.theruststore.com/Cortec-VpCI-368D-P83C28.aspx

http://www.zipchem.com/products/product_detail.aspx?id=NjY=

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: VNTS
I paint the underside of every car I buy when I first buy it. Use the eastwoods Rust Encapsulator, top coat with chasis black. Then hit is with the heavy duty Rust inhibitor. Also spray the internal frame coating in all the rockers, subframes etc

That makes little sense to me. Undersides of cars, especially vehicles with frames, are often undercoated with an anti-rock schutz, some metal parts (frames) coated in wax, etc. Paint will not properly stick, and youre just creating more little pockets for moisture.

I get the HD anti-rust as a waxy coating, that does make sense and should layer on anything. But I dont trust hardening coatings (yes, all these waxes solidify at least to some point) personally for most external stuff.

 

[VNTS]

I wash it down and prep it, here some pics of my 10yr old 02 wj jeep at the time of the pics, hopefully you can see these without having to join.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/rust-problems-1454406/

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: VNTS
I paint the underside of every car I buy when I first buy it. Use the eastwoods Rust Encapsulator, top coat with chasis black. Then hit is with the heavy duty Rust inhibitor. Also spray the internal frame coating in all the rockers, subframes etc

That makes little sense to me. Undersides of cars, especially vehicles with frames, are often undercoated with an anti-rock schutz, some metal parts (frames) coated in wax, etc. Paint will not properly stick, and youre just creating more little pockets for moisture.

I get the HD anti-rust as a waxy coating, that does make sense and should layer on anything. But I dont trust hardening coatings (yes, all these waxes solidify at least to some point) personally for most external stuff.

 

[supton]

Friend of mine removed the bed on his truck and powerwashed the frame; and used the rubberized undercoating on it. Will be curious how it stands up. Should know in a few years.

 

[eljefino]

Originally Posted By: grampi
I can't believe in this day and age there isn't something else that can be used in place of salt that is both non-corrosive and affordable...


Beet juice supposedly works as does beer fermentation leftovers. Not sure how scalable this is.

 

[Robertslowpoke]

thank you all! thank you whimsey! i will have the body guy do it.

i asked him about caddy cheaping out. he said they make the metal really very thin. another mechanic who is a car nut said car makers are trying to make the gas mileage standards, so every pound they save with thinner metal helps..

my friend has a 1985 porsche and 1990 porsche, no rust. makes me mad!!!!

thanks so much guys!
bob

 

[Whimsey]

Originally Posted By: Trav

Glad i don't charge myself labor.


I know you're worth it with your skills

. But I'm at the point where I'll try to make the best of minimizing the rust at a price I can afford, my own labor

. In a strange sort of way I'm beginning to enjoy my annual fight against the rust progression. It's become personal

.

Whimsey

 

[grampi]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
Originally Posted By: grampi
I can't believe in this day and age there isn't something else that can be used in place of salt that is both non-corrosive and affordable...


Beet juice supposedly works as does beer fermentation leftovers. Not sure how scalable this is.

I don't know why they don't just put down sand...it doesn't melt the snow and ice, but it offers traction just the same, and it's a lot less damaging to vehicles...whomever came up with the idea of putting salt on the roads should be shot...I swear it's someone in cahoots with the auto industry...

 

[Bamaro]

Originally Posted By: grampi
I can't believe in this day and age there isn't something else that can be used in place of salt that is both non-corrosive and affordable...

People demand today that roads be cleared quickly and completely so massive amounts of relatively cheap salt are spread at the sign of the first flake.

 

[Silverado12]

Y'all move down here to the South, where we don't have that issue.

 

[zzyzzx]

Really not a problem in Baltimore either.

 

[grampi]

How about if we demand that the roads be cleared without using materials that are damaging to our vehicles?

 

[Kestas]

Like what?

 

[Bluestream]

Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Originally Posted By: fxrider
spray it with wd40 every month .


Yeah, that will do absolutely nothing...


There is a Canadian military study that proves otherwise and it scored 3rd or 4th in that study ahead of a bunch of other products. Fact is that the product, as long as it's oil based and creeps, makes little difference as long as it is properly applied. If the product is thin, then it has to be applied more often.
Krown is hailed by many as THE rustproofing product, but it washes off very easily and IMO is no better then Rust Check. Corrosion Free in fact scored first in that study, but since it is mainly applied by kids at Canadian Tire, it gets bad rep. Application is what counts the most, not the product.


WD40 is 75% solvents, and a very light oil. Its will wash off in less than a day when exposes to slush and salt wash. I would like you to provide proof of the Military study showing it was effective. I doubt that would be classified information (if it exists)