Is this a punk'd episode on BITOG? Ashton Kutcher, please take your Toyota to the Stealership.
Struggling with 2003 Camry last night
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thanks to a harbor freight email ad, i think it's called an air impact wrench
is that needed for removing wheels that are stuck (nuts) or other suspension components or no?
is a 25 inch breaker bar good for torque/leverage? i bought one from harbor freight the other day, but i need an adaptor, the wheels are 13/16 inches or about 22 mm, right? or is it 21
is that needed for removing wheels that are stuck (nuts) or other suspension components or no?
is a 25 inch breaker bar good for torque/leverage? i bought one from harbor freight the other day, but i need an adaptor, the wheels are 13/16 inches or about 22 mm, right? or is it 21
In many jurisdictions the title "engineer" is legally protected and can only be used by a "professional engineer". In just the same way that you can't call yourself a dentist, a doctor or a nurse unless you are one, you can't call yourself an engineer unless you are a professional engineer.
With all due respect, your questions suggest you aren't a professional engineer.
In my opinion, you would be better off with another handle. And the engineers in the group would be happier too (at least I would).
With all due respect, your questions suggest you aren't a professional engineer.
In my opinion, you would be better off with another handle. And the engineers in the group would be happier too (at least I would).
"professional engineer" means you've passed the PE exam, which many people in certain engineering professions get, esp. in civil. IN my profession, it is not as common, the PE exam is after a 2 year period after you pass your FE exam, which is typically done right out of college or in your senior year when the information is still fresh in your mind, and then you work 2 years and get PE certified. No, I am not a PE.
but that is beside the point. No matter what I am, we are all equals here, asking questions about our cars, regardless of whether or not we know nothing, or we are certified mechanics with years of experience.
but that is beside the point. No matter what I am, we are all equals here, asking questions about our cars, regardless of whether or not we know nothing, or we are certified mechanics with years of experience.
Originally Posted By: engineer20
so i looked at lexuses, and i was able to find 2 older lexuses, one 1997 lexus (looked like an avalon) with steel p20565r15 tires and rims, but that car had wheel locks on the wheels and no wheel lock key! (this was a u pull it junkyard) and then i found a 98 lexus es. That was a previous gen, but it had p20565r15 tires and a 15 inch steel wheel which is just like that on my toyota, so i bought it. it had wheel locks too, but one of its wheels on the front was loosened and on the floor and this car had a full size spare which was not used! and right in the trunk! so i thought i hit the jackpot when i found this as this rim was completely new and so was the tire (unlike the ones on the car, the ones on the car had rusty rims) and the one in the trunk was nearly new, so i got the rim and tire for 32 dollars (a good deal) as it was steel and steel wheels are cheap, whereas their aluminum wheels cost 60+ dollars, BUT i later went to a toyota dealer's parts department to ask about fit and they said that while the diaameter is the same, or radius, the width differs
one wheel was 15 by 6.5 (camry, i think) whereas the lexus is 15 by 6.0
I'm using this as a spare, and I put it in my trunk, so would this be good for a spare? also, can this car take a donut as a spare even though my car came with a full size spare just like the lexus did? what about as a regular wheel? if i use this normally , as in i dont' get another tire for a while so i keep my spare on, will it work, or might it cause issues, or is the width difference tolerable? thanks
What's a Toyota clerk know about Lexus parts. Look closely at the wheel, the size, including width, ought to be stamped near the hub.
so i looked at lexuses, and i was able to find 2 older lexuses, one 1997 lexus (looked like an avalon) with steel p20565r15 tires and rims, but that car had wheel locks on the wheels and no wheel lock key! (this was a u pull it junkyard) and then i found a 98 lexus es. That was a previous gen, but it had p20565r15 tires and a 15 inch steel wheel which is just like that on my toyota, so i bought it. it had wheel locks too, but one of its wheels on the front was loosened and on the floor and this car had a full size spare which was not used! and right in the trunk! so i thought i hit the jackpot when i found this as this rim was completely new and so was the tire (unlike the ones on the car, the ones on the car had rusty rims) and the one in the trunk was nearly new, so i got the rim and tire for 32 dollars (a good deal) as it was steel and steel wheels are cheap, whereas their aluminum wheels cost 60+ dollars, BUT i later went to a toyota dealer's parts department to ask about fit and they said that while the diaameter is the same, or radius, the width differs
one wheel was 15 by 6.5 (camry, i think) whereas the lexus is 15 by 6.0
I'm using this as a spare, and I put it in my trunk, so would this be good for a spare? also, can this car take a donut as a spare even though my car came with a full size spare just like the lexus did? what about as a regular wheel? if i use this normally , as in i dont' get another tire for a while so i keep my spare on, will it work, or might it cause issues, or is the width difference tolerable? thanks
What's a Toyota clerk know about Lexus parts. Look closely at the wheel, the size, including width, ought to be stamped near the hub.
Engineer20--- You come across as a troll. I don't think you are. My gut says you're just really inexperienced with car repairs. If I were you, and you're a computer engineer, I'd take my car to the dealer and have them replace the ball joints. Brakes and steering are vitally important so I wouldn't take the chance of dying because I don't know what I'm doing. Personally, I know enough what I'm doing, but I still wouldn't replace a ball joint because it's fairly high up on the "pain in the rear" level of mechanic work. Too much rust on too many bolts leads to paying someone else $90/hr so I can enjoy my day.
Your windshield washer pump issue---You could probably handle this because if you mess it up you PROBABLY won't end up dead (unlike steering issues). Just go to an Auto Parts store OR the dealer. Sometimes the OE parts from the dealer are cheaper or only a couple bucks more. And, I've found, they last a lot longer than the [censored] some auto parts stores sell. Some stuff is OK, but you have to watch what they're selling you and the prices.
Oil filter---why are you changing the filter? Most owner's manuals recommend changing the filter every other change. 5K isn't that bad for a filter, even a cheap one. Leave your oil in for another 4K, change the oil and filter at 5K (filter would be at 9k, right?)
List of items your dealer says are bad---if you check your oil and don't notice any on your garage floor, don't listen to them. If you check your coolant (when the engine is COLD or you'll get 3rd degree burns) and it isn't losing any don't listen to them. If you're losing some, but it's not enough to have to top off more than every month or two, then start saving money to prepare for the fix. A "leaking water pump" can last for quite some time. Or, it can die tomorrow. If you're not noticing puddles or liquid (small or big puddles) I'd keep the list and not worry. Or take it to an independent mechanic and get a second opinion.
You're driving an old car. It's going to start having some issues. Start saving money up, watch YouTube for "how tos" find a repair manual online or buy one at a auto parts store (or Amazon or Barnes and Noble) for your car, and pick the things to fix yourself that you won't die from if you do them wrong. Once you get more comfortable around working on cars, then tackle your ball joints.
Also, some communities offer free (or paid) car maintenance seminars at local community colleges. Call a local community college and ask if they offer car maintenance classes for your community. Or, if you're really interested, sign up to take some actual car repair classes. In the long run, it'll pay for itself if you keep fixing things on your car.
Your windshield washer pump issue---You could probably handle this because if you mess it up you PROBABLY won't end up dead (unlike steering issues). Just go to an Auto Parts store OR the dealer. Sometimes the OE parts from the dealer are cheaper or only a couple bucks more. And, I've found, they last a lot longer than the [censored] some auto parts stores sell. Some stuff is OK, but you have to watch what they're selling you and the prices.
Oil filter---why are you changing the filter? Most owner's manuals recommend changing the filter every other change. 5K isn't that bad for a filter, even a cheap one. Leave your oil in for another 4K, change the oil and filter at 5K (filter would be at 9k, right?)
List of items your dealer says are bad---if you check your oil and don't notice any on your garage floor, don't listen to them. If you check your coolant (when the engine is COLD or you'll get 3rd degree burns) and it isn't losing any don't listen to them. If you're losing some, but it's not enough to have to top off more than every month or two, then start saving money to prepare for the fix. A "leaking water pump" can last for quite some time. Or, it can die tomorrow. If you're not noticing puddles or liquid (small or big puddles) I'd keep the list and not worry. Or take it to an independent mechanic and get a second opinion.
You're driving an old car. It's going to start having some issues. Start saving money up, watch YouTube for "how tos" find a repair manual online or buy one at a auto parts store (or Amazon or Barnes and Noble) for your car, and pick the things to fix yourself that you won't die from if you do them wrong. Once you get more comfortable around working on cars, then tackle your ball joints.
Also, some communities offer free (or paid) car maintenance seminars at local community colleges. Call a local community college and ask if they offer car maintenance classes for your community. Or, if you're really interested, sign up to take some actual car repair classes. In the long run, it'll pay for itself if you keep fixing things on your car.
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[/quote] What's a Toyota clerk know about Lexus parts. Look closely at the wheel, the size, including width, ought to be stamped near the hub. [/quote]
You're joking, right? Probably the same thing a Honda clerk knows about Acura parts...or a Chevy clerk knows about GM parts...or a Ford clerk used to know about Mazda parts...or a Nissan clerk knows about Infiniti parts...
You're joking, right? Probably the same thing a Honda clerk knows about Acura parts...or a Chevy clerk knows about GM parts...or a Ford clerk used to know about Mazda parts...or a Nissan clerk knows about Infiniti parts...
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Originally Posted By: Yup
Engineer20--- You come across as a troll. I don't think you are. My gut says you're just really inexperienced with car repairs. If I were you, and you're a computer engineer, I'd take my car to the dealer and have them replace the ball joints.
Brakes and steering are vitally important so I wouldn't take the chance of dying because I don't know what I'm doing.
The best advice to give when a DIY project fails....I've given E20 this advice often, and just gave the same advice to Camrydriver111...
Engineer20--- You come across as a troll. I don't think you are. My gut says you're just really inexperienced with car repairs. If I were you, and you're a computer engineer, I'd take my car to the dealer and have them replace the ball joints.
Brakes and steering are vitally important so I wouldn't take the chance of dying because I don't know what I'm doing.
The best advice to give when a DIY project fails....I've given E20 this advice often, and just gave the same advice to Camrydriver111...
Originally Posted By: engineer20
"professional engineer" means you've passed the PE exam, which many people in certain engineering professions get, esp. in civil. IN my profession, it is not as common, the PE exam is after a 2 year period after you pass your FE exam, which is typically done right out of college or in your senior year when the information is still fresh in your mind, and then you work 2 years and get PE certified. No, I am not a PE.
but that is beside the point. No matter what I am, we are all equals here, asking questions about our cars, regardless of whether or not we know nothing, or we are certified mechanics with years of experience.
people here have a low tolerance for conversational questioning. take the advice here also with many grains of salt and do your own research. good luck with your repairs.
"professional engineer" means you've passed the PE exam, which many people in certain engineering professions get, esp. in civil. IN my profession, it is not as common, the PE exam is after a 2 year period after you pass your FE exam, which is typically done right out of college or in your senior year when the information is still fresh in your mind, and then you work 2 years and get PE certified. No, I am not a PE.
but that is beside the point. No matter what I am, we are all equals here, asking questions about our cars, regardless of whether or not we know nothing, or we are certified mechanics with years of experience.
people here have a low tolerance for conversational questioning. take the advice here also with many grains of salt and do your own research. good luck with your repairs.
I notice you live in Michigan and drive a 2003 MY car. It is likely that replacement of ball joints on such a car would reduce many experienced home mechanics to a catatonic state once they had exhausted themselves cursing like drunken sailors for hours, if not days.
Did either dealer say you needed new ball joints?
I'd start with replacing the rsb bushings. If you can get those done, good job. (You can always delete the rsb for mad fwd drifts!)
Let a pro do the ball joints, if they need it.
You need a mentor or basic classes if your going forward as has been stated.
Did either dealer say you needed new ball joints?
I'd start with replacing the rsb bushings. If you can get those done, good job. (You can always delete the rsb for mad fwd drifts!)
Let a pro do the ball joints, if they need it.
You need a mentor or basic classes if your going forward as has been stated.
engineer20....rsb = rear sway bar
@yup, thanks for the detailed response. Yes, I am not a troll, but I understand a lot, but I have an old car and don't know much about cars, but I'd like to learn, as it'd save up enough for me to keep driving this old timer to pay off my student loans. I'd rather that money go to paying off my student loans than on a car payment, when all i need my car for is transportation.
i will provide a more detailed response later
I got a washer pump from a 90s Toyota, it worked, it was 12V and denso, it looked slightly different, on one of the connections at the bottom that goes into the hose, but the electrical connection and connection into the reservoir is the same so that works.
i don't notice any coolant leaks, but a mechanic also said i have a slight water pump drip, but another mechanic said i don't have any issues with the water pump
as for the oil, i was told buy a quick lube tech that maybe i should get it retoruqed, the valve cover retorqued, so that's what i'll do. i don't really notice a leak, but there is some oil residue, so it could be a slightl leak but i just had my valve cover done 2 years and 30k miles ago, so i called up the mechanic who did it for me and he said he could retorque it for me fro free and that it's a quick fix, and that it might stop any further leaks, but hopefully, I don't need to replace the valve cover gasket again.
i know of community college car repair classes, but they aren't free. while community college tuition isn't that bad, the auto repair classes cost more and require "contact lab fees" or something like that because they are lab classes, so that's why i haven't taken any, regular cc classes i can afford, now, an extra cost, which is almost twice the regular tuition rate, that's stretching it for me, and with that money, i could have a mechanic fix it for me, but atfixing it is a one time thing, whereas learning the skills will be a lifetime skill which can save me more inthe long run but it has a high up front cost, whereas having a mechanic do it for me is just a one time deal and then when i need a repair again, i'll have to go back to them, wheras if i know how to do the repair, the first time, the upfront cost might be the same as if i paid somebody, but the more times i start doing the repair myself, the more it will pay off in the long run.
i was told this weekend by belle/disc tire that the bolt pattern and offset is the same on the lexus wheel with my camry but that it is narrower at 15 by 6 vs mine at 15 by 6.5 but it's not big enough of an issue to cause problems, but the hub is slightly larger (center hole) is larger on the lexus than on my camry
i will provide a more detailed response later
I got a washer pump from a 90s Toyota, it worked, it was 12V and denso, it looked slightly different, on one of the connections at the bottom that goes into the hose, but the electrical connection and connection into the reservoir is the same so that works.
i don't notice any coolant leaks, but a mechanic also said i have a slight water pump drip, but another mechanic said i don't have any issues with the water pump
as for the oil, i was told buy a quick lube tech that maybe i should get it retoruqed, the valve cover retorqued, so that's what i'll do. i don't really notice a leak, but there is some oil residue, so it could be a slightl leak but i just had my valve cover done 2 years and 30k miles ago, so i called up the mechanic who did it for me and he said he could retorque it for me fro free and that it's a quick fix, and that it might stop any further leaks, but hopefully, I don't need to replace the valve cover gasket again.
i know of community college car repair classes, but they aren't free. while community college tuition isn't that bad, the auto repair classes cost more and require "contact lab fees" or something like that because they are lab classes, so that's why i haven't taken any, regular cc classes i can afford, now, an extra cost, which is almost twice the regular tuition rate, that's stretching it for me, and with that money, i could have a mechanic fix it for me, but atfixing it is a one time thing, whereas learning the skills will be a lifetime skill which can save me more inthe long run but it has a high up front cost, whereas having a mechanic do it for me is just a one time deal and then when i need a repair again, i'll have to go back to them, wheras if i know how to do the repair, the first time, the upfront cost might be the same as if i paid somebody, but the more times i start doing the repair myself, the more it will pay off in the long run.
i was told this weekend by belle/disc tire that the bolt pattern and offset is the same on the lexus wheel with my camry but that it is narrower at 15 by 6 vs mine at 15 by 6.5 but it's not big enough of an issue to cause problems, but the hub is slightly larger (center hole) is larger on the lexus than on my camry
@vikas, i have a house and a garage, thank goodness, and that's why i don't want any further car payments, because i saved up early to get the house, but as you might be able to tell, i'm still a young fellow (probably could tell by still having student loans) and i still have plenty of time to learn stuff, but yes, i have a house, not an apartment, so that gives me much more space to fix my car, can you imagine fixing a car in an apartment parking lot without a garage? must be hard!
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i don't have a compressor. Jokes aside, I need serious answers.
Also, the reason why I want to change out my oil filter is last time I changed my oil, I didn't change the filter. I also put magnets on my oil filter, but the place that inspected my car stole it! (i don't know which one though since i didn't check immediately afterwards, but i'll put another magnet on the filter)
because while oil filters can last beyond 6k, the newer the oil filter, the better, and cleaner it will keep the oil and i noticed my oil getting slightly dirty, so i feel maybe with a new filter, that'd keep my oil fresher longer, and get rid of harmful contaminants. if the magnet is removed and you continue to drive, will the contaminants the magnet picked up be thrown back into the engine? i'm worried about that. anyways, one guy at napa, says he changes his filter or napagold filter ever 3k miles. I changed my oil 1.5 k ago and didnt' change the filter and now this filter is a littel past 5k, so i'm interested in changing the filter to keep the oil fresher longer so that i don't have things that coudl damage my engine get stuck in the engine. thanks.
Also, the reason why I want to change out my oil filter is last time I changed my oil, I didn't change the filter. I also put magnets on my oil filter, but the place that inspected my car stole it! (i don't know which one though since i didn't check immediately afterwards, but i'll put another magnet on the filter)
because while oil filters can last beyond 6k, the newer the oil filter, the better, and cleaner it will keep the oil and i noticed my oil getting slightly dirty, so i feel maybe with a new filter, that'd keep my oil fresher longer, and get rid of harmful contaminants. if the magnet is removed and you continue to drive, will the contaminants the magnet picked up be thrown back into the engine? i'm worried about that. anyways, one guy at napa, says he changes his filter or napagold filter ever 3k miles. I changed my oil 1.5 k ago and didnt' change the filter and now this filter is a littel past 5k, so i'm interested in changing the filter to keep the oil fresher longer so that i don't have things that coudl damage my engine get stuck in the engine. thanks.
my humble advice as follows:
Instead of haphazardly jumping into automobile repair work (trying to save money?!) and not knowing the fundamentals of automobiles (mechanical, electrical), why don't you go get a trusted indy shop or similar to get your eminent issues resolved and then attend afterhours mechanics trade school or similar?
While I do not dispute the opportunity of learning RE: online, internet discussion boards, etc. My observation (after 4 pages of postings on this said subject) tells me that you do not even possess the fundamental understanding of automobile mechanical/electrical, and lack fundamental wrenching skills.
Given these circumstances, the likeliness of you getting yourself hurt, damaging your automobile, etc. is very high.
Slow down, attend school to learn to do things the "right" way, etc. don't shortchange yourself and don't rely extensively on internet information (DO recommend you to use internet as some sort of visual guidance/reference instead).
Q.
Instead of haphazardly jumping into automobile repair work (trying to save money?!) and not knowing the fundamentals of automobiles (mechanical, electrical), why don't you go get a trusted indy shop or similar to get your eminent issues resolved and then attend afterhours mechanics trade school or similar?
While I do not dispute the opportunity of learning RE: online, internet discussion boards, etc. My observation (after 4 pages of postings on this said subject) tells me that you do not even possess the fundamental understanding of automobile mechanical/electrical, and lack fundamental wrenching skills.
Given these circumstances, the likeliness of you getting yourself hurt, damaging your automobile, etc. is very high.
Slow down, attend school to learn to do things the "right" way, etc. don't shortchange yourself and don't rely extensively on internet information (DO recommend you to use internet as some sort of visual guidance/reference instead).
Q.
If you have no compressor, why on the earth were you asking about the air impact gun to begin with? Don't you understand it why that gives suspicion of trolling?
My sincere advice is to slow down and start watching some of the youtube channels where basic maintenance is shown. For example, watch CarsNToys. He does NOT use any powered tools just on principle when he records the video.
Also finding a decent shop is worth its weight in gold. Once you establish a working relationship with them, you can observe and learn from them and will always have somebody to bail you out if run in to trouble. You can also then decide which type of jobs you will try and which you will not even bother to try once you watch enough. Try to understand "why" of every step being shown.
If you are in to IT business, then you understand how important logic is. Apply that knowledge to the auto maintenance. The aim should be to understand the steps thoroughly and possibly in a position to execute them yourself. But often, leaving that execution to somebody else will be the most prudent choice.
My sincere advice is to slow down and start watching some of the youtube channels where basic maintenance is shown. For example, watch CarsNToys. He does NOT use any powered tools just on principle when he records the video.
Also finding a decent shop is worth its weight in gold. Once you establish a working relationship with them, you can observe and learn from them and will always have somebody to bail you out if run in to trouble. You can also then decide which type of jobs you will try and which you will not even bother to try once you watch enough. Try to understand "why" of every step being shown.
If you are in to IT business, then you understand how important logic is. Apply that knowledge to the auto maintenance. The aim should be to understand the steps thoroughly and possibly in a position to execute them yourself. But often, leaving that execution to somebody else will be the most prudent choice.
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