Sound like a CV Joint?

[rengnath]

Hello everyone,

I have a 2005 Dodge Dakota 4x4 with 99k. I had a lower ball joint replaced in front on the passenger side about 10k ago. Ever since I have had the truck, there has always been a slight "clunk" or "pop" sound while turning in to parking lots that have a ramp from the street. The sound has gotten worse now, and the truck occasionally does the sound while turning hard. It will only do it while turning hard right, or up in to a parking lot. It happens either while I'm going a little fast around a turn, or when I turn in somewhere and the suspension depresses and the wheel is turned. It is definetly coming from the passenger side. I have done a couple searches, and it sounds like a CV joint. Now I know a little bit, but I have no idea what a CV joint really does and how it relates to a ball joint, if there is any relation at all. After I got my ball joint replaced, while cleaning the wheels, I noticed a ton of grease on the back of the wheel well. I figured when I got the chassis greased, they just missed the nozzel and got it everywhere, so I cleaned what I could and never looked again because it was the last time I had a chance to detail the truck in fall. Now, I notice the boot around the CV joint (Im assuming its the CV joint. It is the biggest boot, entering behind the center of the wheel) has a crack in it, and thats where my grease is from. I dont know if it happened when the ball joint was replaced, but regardless, I think this is where my problem may be coming from. Im guessing the elements got inside that boot, and thats what is causing this pop, and why it has been getting more noticable. So first, am I on the right track here? Does it sound like its a cv joint gone bad? And next, could anyone give me an idea on what it will cost to get fixed. What will the shop have to do to fix it? For example, re-alignment, pulling off assemblies, ect. I appreciate any help. I just like to know what is wrong before I take the truck in; 1. So I know what the shop is saying when they tell me whats wrong 2. So I know Im not getting hosed 3. So I can have the money to actually fix the problem. Thanks alot and sorry my explanation was so long.

 

[heypete]

The Wikipedia has an informative article about CV joints that will explain their function. It part of the drive axles of the vehicle that supplies power to the wheel.

The ball joint is a component that connects the suspension to the wheel.

If the CV joint boot is cracked or split, the joint must be repaired or replaced (oftentimes it's easier to just change the axle) and the boot replaced. Repairs include disassembling the joint, de-greasing it, cleaning everything out, inspecting it for wear, re-greasing it, and re-assembling.

If it's clicking already, you probably need to replace the joint or the axle.

Removing the CV axle (the joint is connected to the axle) does require disconnecting a few suspension connections, but a failure of the CV boot/joint isn't really related to the suspension; the joints tend to split, crack, or rip over time.

My friend and I repaired the balljoint on his Subaru Forester in a few hours (most of the time was spent trying to separate the balljoint, which turned out not to be necessary -- once we figured out what to do, we got everything done in four hours or so). Mechanically, it wasn't that hard -- we just had a basic tool set (ratchet wrenches and sockets in the appropriate size, a free loaner torque wrench from AutoZone, and a $20 kit that included a new boot, CV joint grease, and the metal retaining bands for the boot).

Had we just purchased a replacement axle (they're $50-$70 at AutoZone, and carry a lifetime warranty), we could have been done in about an hour and a half. Most of the time was spent degreasing and inspecting the interior of the joint.

I don't know about the prices in your area or for your vehicle, but the local Subaru dealer charges $200 just for inspecting/greasing/rebooting the joint, and $600 for a new axle. A local independent shop will do an axle replacement for $225. You might call around and see what local independent shops are charging if you're not willing to do it yourself.

Honestly, doing it yourself might be fun, a bit of a learning experience, and not terribly hard. Just be sure to get a manual (we used the Chilton's manual, which cost about $20, but Haynes are excellent as well) to walk you through it.

 

[rengnath]

Do you think this is where my clunk is coming from? Or would it probably be part of the suspension?

 

[heypete]

Is it a clunk or a click? Does it just happen once each time you turn (i.e. do you need to straighten out and turn again to get it), or does it repeat as you continue to turn (i.e. many sounds in one turn)?

Regardless of the source of the sound, you need to get your CV joint repaired or replaced. They can be easily damaged if the boot is ripped, as it lets grease out and contaminants in.

How long ago did you notice the boot was ripped? If it's been ripped for more than a short period, you're probably better off getting a new axle.

 

[rengnath]

The clunk is just one clunk, and it sounds like something pops out of place and then back in.

The boot has probably been ripped for a long time. There is no clicking, so maybe Im still safe. Ill take it in the week to get the boot replaced and see if they can find the clunk. If its not the ball joint that was replaced last time, the only other thing would be the sway bar in the front. I know it comes from the right side because while climbing a snow bank with just the right side of my truck, when I was coming down I could hear the clunk coming distinctly from that side.

 

[hsd]

Typically a bad CV joint will make a series of clicks while turning, so your noise may be another suspension part.
As was previously stated, you should fix the damaged CV boot or replace the axle. It will probably be about the same cost either way.

 

[rengnath]

Ok, thanks for your responses guys. I will for sure get it fixed asap, and still try and find that clunk. I appreciate the help!

 

[fdcg27]

A bad CV joint will produce a clicking sound in corners.
In my experience, a CV joint will last as long as the boot remains intact.
Eventually, a boot will split, and you probably won't be aware of it until the damage is done.
A "clunk" or "pop" is something else.
Probably a worn bushing, although it could also be something more serious.
Rebuilt axles for the front are fairly inexpensive, and replacement is not difficult in most cases, although I have read of some models where the amount of work required falls into the "you've got to be kidding" range.
Alignment is not controlled by the axle assembly, and replacing it will not affect alignment.

 

[rengnath]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
.
Alignment is not controlled by the axle assembly, and replacing it will not affect alignment.


Thats great to hear. The worse part about getting a repair done in front is when they tack on another $75 just to align it.

 

[mechtech2]

Replacing axles can cause a change in alignment.
Things go back together close, but the the same.
The odds are with you, but it sure can happen.

Also take a real good look at your sway bar end links.
So far, this does not sound like classic C/V joint noise.

 

[rengnath]

Well I talked to my dad and we decided it was a job that we could tackle. I found a reman. half shaft from auto zone for 60 bucks. We are going to fix that first, and see what happens to the clunk.

The sway bar in the front is held to the front of the frame, and when the suspension flexes, the sway bar moves out of place a bit, so that could be it. If the clunk is still there after we replace the cv joint, that will be the next thing. Good news is it will cost under $100 to fix the boot and replace the shaft.

 

[artificialist]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Replacing axles can cause a change in alignment.
Things go back together close, but the the same.
The odds are with you, but it sure can happen.

Also take a real good look at your sway bar end links.
So far, this does not sound like classic C/V joint noise.

Depends on the suspension design.

If you can remove the spindle without removing a control arm, you will not need to re-allign.

The same thing applies if you don't need to remove the 2 bolts that hold the strut to the spindle.