So I bought a Deere zero turn mower

[Greasymechtech]

Run whatever you want

My recommendation is an HDEO 10w30 or 15w40... If you want synth, then pick an HDEO 5w40. 10w40's have good selection in conventional and synth in the motorcycle section

I never bothered wondering why an engine manufacturer gives you a tolerable grade chart with multiple choices... and then the equipment manufacturer using that engine gives only ONE choice, like the cold weather choice. I usually cut my grass during summer. I don't need the winter or EPA grade choices.

 

[SHOZ]

My new JD Z329M the oil was 250F after a two hour mow at 88F outside. Used a digital thermometer and probe in the dipstick tube. Changed it out after 5 hrs for some 5w30 synthetic.

 

[Cujet]

Currently at 22 years of solid abuse (no joke) with my Kawasaki powered John Deere. I used M1, 5W-40 TDT (one of the finest oils ever made) and then switched to Rotella T6 5W-40 when I could no longer find TDT at WalMart. I change every 100 hours now. I expect the engine to outlive me.

 

[SHOZ]

I still can't believe they screwed up the gas tank on the JD Z320 compared to my old JD F510. I'm thinking of seeing if I can swap them.

No level gage for one. "It's translucent" they say so all you got to do is look. Which you need to stop to do. But in the semi dark you still can't see and end up over filling. It does start to miss on turns when real low so better be aware. The fill hole is angled so a funnel doesn't sit square. And if you do sit the funnel square it air locks.

 

[IveBeenRued]

As someone who burned out a Kawasaki FR-series prematurely using 10W-30 (as recommended at the time), I say go with 10W-40 at a minimum. Kawasaki likely recommends 20W-50 or 15W-50 in warmer weather. If that is still the case, go thick.

 

[john_pifer]

As someone who burned out a Kawasaki FR-series prematurely using 10W-30 (as recommended at the time), I say go with 10W-40 at a minimum. Kawasaki likely recommends 20W-50 or 15W-50 in warmer weather. If that is still the case, go thick.

Did the level ever get low?

 

[IveBeenRued]

Did the level ever get low?

Negative. I was an unfortunate victim of buying that motor when the factory recommended 10W-30, then Kawasaki released TSBs bumping it up to 10W-40 then 20W-50. Because I do all my own maintenance, I was never privy to the TSB notices until I went in to buy a hydro filter and saw the notices posted near the oil section.

 

[CanAmAndMore]

My zero turn also has a Kawasaki engine, I've ran it on 5W30, 10w40, and 0w40 oil, but couldn't tell the difference.

 

[SHOZ]

Got 12 hrs on the new JD Z320 with a Kawasaki 22hp V twin. The gas mileage has gone up a lot. Went from 3 gallons the first mow to about 2 this last mow. Getting a little better at using it too. Cut 25 minutes off the first time and 10 minutes off the old time with my front mow JDF510.

Oil still runs 250F in the sump after the mow though, that has been consistent no matter what.

 

[SHOZ]

And I hate the gas tank on the JD Z320. It's clear so they say no need for a gas gauge. But it's under the seat. And an 'easy fill' gas filler that is only easy fill with a spout. It's angled so a funnel doesn't sit on it. When filling in the shed I have to put a flashlight on top of the tank shining down to see the level. Maybe if I dyed the gas.....

And it's 3 gallon. Who has 3 gallon gas cans????

 

[SHOZ]

So after getting some experience and the engine breaking in it's getting a lot better gas yardage. Still more than the older mower. So far I've cut my usual time down about 10 minutes. It mows a lot better than the front mower and doesn't ring the tree with the inner wheel when making sharp turns like the JD F510.

I put some jiffy pop style high temp insulation uner the muffer. Even though it had a big heat shield on it, it would burn the grass if you let it sit and idled somewhere. The insulation stopped that.

I moved the seat back a bit further than originally possible and raised the front about an inch. It's like sitting in my recliner now, very comfortable and lowers my head height a bit.

The gas and vapor line were both rubbing against the lower part of the engine cooling fins. I put some split loom around them.

Still dislike the gas tank set up and ran out of gas the last time. No warning, lucky I was somewhat close to the shed. Looking for a 45 degree funnel so it will sit square in the filler neck.

 

[busdriver]

My X350 21.5HP, I'm running whatever the dealer uses, as they are servicing it...My guess is 10W-40

 

[jeepman3071]

My X350 21.5HP, I'm running whatever the dealer uses, as they are servicing it...My guess is 10W-40

Most dealers run the Deere Turf Guard 10w30 that comes in their maintenance kits.

 

[SHOZ]

Going to mow this week on one of the hot days. Suppose to be upper 90Fs. I'll see how hot the oil gets. So far it's running 250F at the end of an 1:30 or so mow in the 80s-90s..

 

[jeepman3071]

Negative. I was an unfortunate victim of buying that motor when the factory recommended 10W-30, then Kawasaki released TSBs bumping it up to 10W-40 then 20W-50. Because I do all my own maintenance, I was never privy to the TSB notices until I went in to buy a hydro filter and saw the notices posted near the oil section.

I don't think using 10w30 vs 20w50 is what burned out your engine, unless it was run low. I have commercial customers with Kawasakis running cheap 5w30 and 10w30 and they have thousands of hours on their engines, but check the level daily. I would bet money that it somehow overheated because of a mouse nest. I have seen that so many times. Kawasaki bumped the recommendation to 10w40/20w50 because of oil consumption.

 

[Brian123]

I don't think using 10w30 vs 20w50 is what burned out your engine, unless it was run low. I have commercial customers with Kawasakis running cheap 5w30 and 10w30 and they have thousands of hours on their engines, but check the level daily. I would bet money that it somehow overheated because of a mouse nest. I have seen that so many times. Kawasaki bumped the recommendation to 10w40/20w50 because of oil consumption.

I will agree with jeepman3071 on this 1 since I have a Bobcat Ransome 36 inch walk behind mower with A 14 HP 420V Kawasaki Engine that is now 33 years old. I always used 10W-30 in it, and I always checked the oil before each use. I also blew the mower off after each use and once a year I did take the cover off 2 blow everything out. I never had oil consumption issues, but I only used it for maybe 1 to 2 hours a day spread out by an hour or so.

If the machine were to be used for multiple hours at a time, then a thicker oil would be necessary.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

I’m picking up a Deere z330m zero turn mower this week.

I’m going to run it for a season but I’m not going to winterize it in the late fall. I’d rather just start it up and run it hard 3-4 times a month.

Question I have is Deere (as Deere always does) recommends turf gard 10w-30 in the zero turn owners manual.

John Deere oil is good stuff but the Kawasaki engine it has recommends 10w-40 in the Kawasaki FR691v owners manual as the go to oil and even 20w-50 in some climates.

Just curious, are there any benefit running a 10w-40 over 10w-30 on an air cooled Kawasaki?

John Deere’s turf gard only comes in 5w or 10w-30

I’ve got HPL’s Small Engine Life 10w40 in my Kawasaki FR730V now. Put it in about 5 hours ago with a Fram Endurance 3614. Probably will pull a sample in another 145 hours, which puts me somewhere in 2027 or so. I get about 35 hours a year cutting 3.2 acres.

Previous oil was Amsoil Small Engine 10w40 that was in for about 138 hours, still have to send the sample out for testing. There’s no real downside to running the 40 grade over the 30 grade; you’re not in this for acres per gallon, you’re in this to protect a hard-working air cooled engine through whatever it may face.

 

[IveBeenRued]

I don't think using 10w30 vs 20w50 is what burned out your engine, unless it was run low. I have commercial customers with Kawasakis running cheap 5w30 and 10w30 and they have thousands of hours on their engines, but check the level daily. I would bet money that it somehow overheated because of a mouse nest. I have seen that so many times. Kawasaki bumped the recommendation to 10w40/20w50 because of oil consumption.

Kawasaki bumped the recommendation because 10W-30 wasn’t lubricating properly above about 86 degrees (per Kawasaki engineering department) which was resulting in stuck/burned rings at very low hours (roughly 75-100). It is now recommended to go with a minimum of 10W-40 above 14 degrees and 20W-50 in temps above 32 degrees if you are in a hot environment.

 

[SHOZ]

My new JD FR651V recommends 5w30 up to 104F and 5w40 over that. I've got 5w30 in it now and will go to the 5w40 next year.

 

[userfriendly]

Kawasaki bumped the recommendation because 10W-30 wasn’t lubricating properly above about 86 degrees (per Kawasaki engineering department) which was resulting in stuck/burned rings at very low hours (roughly 75-100). It is now recommended to go with a minimum of 10W-40 above 14 degrees and 20W-50 in temps above 32 degrees if you are in a hot environment.

If this engine was in a motorcycle running at 3,200 rpm, what grade of oil would most people use?