Service dept uses unapproved oil. Looking for advice (M-Benz GLC 300)

I may have missed it but what national pre-owned car chain are you referring to? Carmax? If that is the case I would be willing to bet a steak dinner that they are not using any certain spec'ed oil for any of their cars. Each store buys tons of oil in bulk for the lowest price and just uses 5w30 for everything and the cheapest filters they can source.

If you are worried about the certs and specs, take it to the dealer and mention that or any indy shop where they source it or allow you to bring it.
 
cammyfive79 said:
I may have missed it but what national pre-owned car chain are you referring to? Carmax? If that is the case I would be willing to bet a steak dinner that they are not using any certain spec'ed oil for any of their cars. Each store buys tons of oil in bulk for the lowest price and just uses 5w30 for everything and the cheapest filters they can source.

If you are worried about the certs and specs, take it to the dealer and mention that or any indy shop where they source it or allow you to bring it.
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Thanks for your comment. I didn’t prefer to mention the company name but I fully agree with everything you mentioned.

Honestly, I am going to start changing the oil myself using one of those manual pumps. I don’t have a garage or a driveway, so that’s the best option for me atm.

Changing the oil myself is the only way that I’ll feel better about what’s being done to my car and it looks so much easier than even my previous Honda Accord.
 
I'm curious if the current/new SP 0w40 has the same cleaning power it once claimed to have. Now that the oxidation readings for all M1 oil is 10 or under, it appears the group V component has been changed. So it's kind of an unknown as to whether M1 has the solvency it once had, in this particular grade. Same with ESP line.
 
I just got back from Walmart, and picked this up for $26.97 a jug. Is this the, "good stuff"?

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Last month, walfart had a deal online, 3 5qt jugs of M1 0w40 for 70 bucks. Not bad.
 
With all advices given here, I've decided to change the oil and finally done it today. Thanks to all who replied, I really appreciate it.

This is the first time I have ever changed oil by myself. Changing with a manual pump was way easier than what I thought it would be. Next time, it'll probably take less than 20 mins.

Used Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 (API SP version). Here’s how FRAM oil 0W-30 looked like at 3,000 miles. I'm planning to send it for oil analysis and will also send the new M1 FS when it reaches 3,000 miles mark. I'll share both analysis when I have it.

Not sure if how it looks matters, but here it is;


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Good choice on the M1 0W-40!

CAUTION: Only put in the amount that you extracted, if the level on the dipstick or meter was good!!! Then make sure your oil level is not above the high mark, if you have a dipstick or level meter.

Your engine is different than mine but when I extracted everything I could out of my MB M133 engine (2.0L turbo) there was still a quart or so more of oil still in the pan. I couldn't get all the oil fully extracted with a pump in the dipstick tube. If I added the normal amount of oil for an oil change, I would have been quite a bit more than what is required. From my understanding, for this engine (M133), any overfill of the sump will cause problems with the PCV system; a costly fix. I am not sure but I hope yours's is not as sensitive to an overfill.

Anyhow, sampling the oil at the interval you mentioned would be interesting, looking forward to the results. The M1 0W-40 is worlds better than what was previously poured in and should exceed the specification you are looking for.
 
It’s a typical practice at most dealerships to run the cheapest (for them) oil they can source. We’re they pumping the Fram from a 55 gallon drum? My wife had the same car as yours serviced at a Mercedes dealership (Hendricks) and the service advisor told me “we use Valvoline, the same bulk oil is used throughout all of the dealerships”. Hendricks owns ever brand from Chevy to Mercedes. So all their oil is a one flavor fits all basic 5W30 Valvoline. Didn’t hurt her car.
 
Fram is ok oil similar to super tech but I wouldn’t recommend it for extended drain intervals not even if the labeling says so. I would have an oil change performed if you’re at 15k on fram oil. Run either castrol edge euro or extended performance. Another choice would be mobil 1.
 
si1491 said:
any overfill of the sump will cause problems with the PCV system; a costly fix. I am not sure but I hope yours's is not as sensitive to an overfill.
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This has happened to me. The used car retailer replaced the oil at the time of sale and I suppose they overfilled it. Ended up with a CEL on the way home - P052E. They took the vehicle back, replaced the PCV Valve and in a week or so, delivered the car. I’ve heard the cost is around $2k to get it done at a Merc dealership.

This is why I decided to start changing the oil myself. This way, at least I know what exactly goes in it and what comes out. Never again..
 
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Rogueman2016s said:
Fram is ok oil similar to super tech but I wouldn’t recommend it for extended drain intervals not even if the labeling says so. I would have an oil change performed if you’re at 15k on fram oil. Run either castrol edge euro or extended performance. Another choice would be mobil 1.
Click to expand...
Fram oil is NEVER ok in this engine! The engine requires MB229.5 approval. That is where discussion about FRAM ends. You can’t recommend any Mobil1 oil. Most are not MB229.5.
 
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