You are happy with what you are doing, so keep doing it and don't let internet chatter get you down. You are using high quality products and take great care of your machine. No worries.
Royal Purple Oil Experience - 2005 Mustang GT
- Thread starter 2k05gt
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Nice car!!!
I saw K&N in the original post, guess it was for an air filter.
JimPghPa
JimPghPa
Originally Posted By: 2k05gt
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
to BITOG!
Sounds like you take care of your car. It's not abnormal for a modern engine to look clean after 70,000 miles with responsible maintenance.
Royal Purple does seem to use additives in their engine oils that would be more at home in transmission fluids (as evidenced by the silly Timken machines they use to show off their oils). Moly is one of them. Those things CAN have some ill effects (e.g. cam lobe pitting, corrosion of soft metals) over a LONG period of time, and many of them (e.g. extreme pressure additives) don't have any proven benefit in an engine oil.
That said, if you heard moly would gum up your engine, that is probably a huge exaggeration.
I personally don't like Royal Purple, but if it has been working for you then I don't see an urgent need to switch.
Nice car, by the way!
Thanks, I do take very good care of it, maybe a bit obsessed.. But who care sit's fun..
Why don't you like it? personal experience or problems?
I use it because it it eaiser to buy than Redline or AMSOIL I would like to use Redline but no one sells
it over the counter like RP. My Walmart selst it for 6.59 per qt, thats not much more than M1. I use M1 in my 2000 Silverado Z71 and 2004 Chrysler 300M
Even from a Holden man, why wouldnt u be obsessed with a beauty like that. Well done on the oil and nice ride !
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Sounds like you take care of your car. It's not abnormal for a modern engine to look clean after 70,000 miles with responsible maintenance.
Royal Purple does seem to use additives in their engine oils that would be more at home in transmission fluids (as evidenced by the silly Timken machines they use to show off their oils). Moly is one of them. Those things CAN have some ill effects (e.g. cam lobe pitting, corrosion of soft metals) over a LONG period of time, and many of them (e.g. extreme pressure additives) don't have any proven benefit in an engine oil.
That said, if you heard moly would gum up your engine, that is probably a huge exaggeration.
I personally don't like Royal Purple, but if it has been working for you then I don't see an urgent need to switch.
Nice car, by the way!
Thanks, I do take very good care of it, maybe a bit obsessed.. But who care sit's fun..
Why don't you like it? personal experience or problems?
I use it because it it eaiser to buy than Redline or AMSOIL I would like to use Redline but no one sells
it over the counter like RP. My Walmart selst it for 6.59 per qt, thats not much more than M1. I use M1 in my 2000 Silverado Z71 and 2004 Chrysler 300M
Even from a Holden man, why wouldnt u be obsessed with a beauty like that. Well done on the oil and nice ride !
The reason why Royal Purple is not liked by many here is due to its poor used oil analysis results. Many RP UOA's show higher wear numbers than many oils that costs half as much, RP oils dont hold their viscosity as well as other oils do and last but not least the virgin oil analysis on some RP oils show their additive and detergent levels to be on par with oils costing half as much.
A big factor for me personally is the fact that I can have Redline oil shipped to my house for $9.05/qt whereas the cheapest RP price I have found is at PepBoys for $7.89. Adding tax with purchase RP costs as much as Redline for me.
I do use Royal Purple gear fluids including their ATF. I have used Redline D4 and Amsoil Universal ATF too in the past and so far I definitely like Royal Purple Max ATF albeit with limited use.
If it works for you, dont change a thing. Your first hand experience with Royal Purple counts way more than any advise you may find here or anywhere else on the internet. Always follow your gut instinct.
A good person to talk to here in regards to RP is NHHEMI, his sig says that he's been using RP since 1990 and a staunch believer and fan of Royal Purple.
Welcome to BITOG and AWESOME ride! Any pics of the interior?
A big factor for me personally is the fact that I can have Redline oil shipped to my house for $9.05/qt whereas the cheapest RP price I have found is at PepBoys for $7.89. Adding tax with purchase RP costs as much as Redline for me.
I do use Royal Purple gear fluids including their ATF. I have used Redline D4 and Amsoil Universal ATF too in the past and so far I definitely like Royal Purple Max ATF albeit with limited use.
If it works for you, dont change a thing. Your first hand experience with Royal Purple counts way more than any advise you may find here or anywhere else on the internet. Always follow your gut instinct.
A good person to talk to here in regards to RP is NHHEMI, his sig says that he's been using RP since 1990 and a staunch believer and fan of Royal Purple.
Welcome to BITOG and AWESOME ride! Any pics of the interior?
First off,nice car
I've got a car that I'm almost done building,a Vortech supercharged 87 Mustang GT
Now,Royal Purple isnt liked too well on these forums,but if it works for you and obviously it is,then keep using it!
Keep at it,you'll be in the 11's soon@~
Now,Royal Purple isnt liked too well on these forums,but if it works for you and obviously it is,then keep using it!
Keep at it,you'll be in the 11's soon@~
I guess as the head RP cheerleader on this site I will chime in
1 -
2 - 70K in a 400+ HP engine that has been used as hard as you claim is NOT something just any modern oil would hold up to as some claim and return the results you have seen. Those folks obviously have never dealt with street/drag machines of that kind. That takes a quality oil for an engine to take that kind of sustained abuse without some kind of failure or abnormal wear. I am not saying only RP would do it( I can name a number of others that would )or that it is the best choice just that it is one of a handful I would select for such a use. Redline would be my second option if you can no longer get RP.
3 - RP has performed great for you to this point and you have even seen the inside of the engine so you know it is working even after 70K+ of hard use so why would you even consider changing? Stick with what works. Also, the RP street oil you are using is an API SL oil which contains a higher level of ZDDP vs the current API SM oils out there so it actually is a better choice for your high HP hard running engine. If you decide to swap I would look towards an oil like Redline, Brad Penn, or Amsoil( think their SSO line has more ZDDP but not sure - I wouldn't select the XL line though as it is API SM ). Schaeffers would be another option to check into as I believe they run higher ZDDP levels as well. IF you ever bump the HP up to the 550-600+ HP range I would start considering the RP XPR racing oil.
4 - I was a pretty serious muscle car guy, hot rodder, and drag racer back in the day and used RP. Big blocks, small blocks, lightly modified and serious weekend drag engines. MOPARS and GM's mostly. Used RP in all of them. I have torn down a lot of engines in my time as well. I can honestly say the engines run on RP also turned out to be clean to the point of looking new and showed little to no wear other than what you would expect to see from break in. Some of those engines were broken down with far fewer miles( not due to failures = improvements )and they were drag only engines and some were 700+ HP. I have seen plenty of engines torn down with less than 70K run on lower quality oils that were in bad shape. I would not say as others have that the results RP returned for you were nothing to get excited about because any modern oil could do it. That just shows a lack of knowledge about how hard your kind of use is on an engine. I however would say the exact opposite( if ANY oil did that for you not just RP ). I would say your money was well spent and the results you saw justified your use of that product/oil.
5 - Amsoil offers excellent products BUT IMHO ignore anything they say about the competition. That company has a history of making false/misleading statements about the competition and their own products. That info you have with the Moly in RP was circulating back around 04/05 and they ended up having to back step and come off those claims. It is [censored]. Just like 99% of what they say about the products of other companies. IF you want to know about a product from another company like Penzoil, Redline, Schaeffers, RP, or any other company talk to that company NOT Amsoil. This is said with all due respect to those here who like Amsoil and guys like Pablo who are good guys. I wouldn't believe a thing Amsoil says about another company's product though and I tend to have doubts about what they say on their own. That is an earned reputation as well and not some personal bias based on nothing as so many here have towards RP. Amsoil products = exceptional. Amsoil marketing = [censored].
6 - Contrary to claims made by so many here there are NOT a ton of bad UOA's on RP in the UOA forum. There are a few but no more than other oils have. A year or so back, maybe a little longer, another member who liked RP as I do took the time to bump all the RP UOA's he could find and overwhelmingly they were positive. There have been a few members who did not have good results but they are the exception and not the norm. The other big UOA claim here against RP is that the 5W-30 sheers out of grade all the time. Those UOA's the guy bumped up disputed that claim as well. Again, not that it hasn't happened but not to the level the detractors claim. It is just one of those run-a-muck stories that as it travels grows bigger and more wild as it goes.
7 - ignore 95% of the negative comments made about RP on this site. Why? Well, not because I am an RP fan and want to fool you or anything but rather because the people making those comments haven't used RP themselves. The other 5% have and 5% of actual users complaining is is not out of the norm for any product. It is very fashionable on this site to bash RP and most who do haven't used it. Many admit to that fact as if it is something to be proud of while others you have to prod to get that admission from them. If you haven't used a product it escapes me how you can tell others it is bad?
You will also hear a lot of false comments made by those folks as well such as it being a Grp III based oil when it is in truth a Grp IV PAO based oil. Just so much unfounded hate and outright false info about RP pushed on this site it blows me away. Another bashing point is also the cost. Well, I like you pay no more for it than I would buying Mobil 1. It is nice to see someone else post their cost as being on par with the name brand oils let alone less than the other boutigue oils.
Bottom line is it has worked for you and it has worked exceptionally well. No need to change. This site is a great resource but don't let others talk you out of or into anything especially when you have used a product and seen 1st hand that it is exceptional while the guy telling you it is [censored] hasn't ever used it.
This site goes through cycles where one week oil A is the best and oil B is the worst. Next week it will change to oils C and D.
I am generally not a Ford guy but very nice Stang!
1 -
2 - 70K in a 400+ HP engine that has been used as hard as you claim is NOT something just any modern oil would hold up to as some claim and return the results you have seen. Those folks obviously have never dealt with street/drag machines of that kind. That takes a quality oil for an engine to take that kind of sustained abuse without some kind of failure or abnormal wear. I am not saying only RP would do it( I can name a number of others that would )or that it is the best choice just that it is one of a handful I would select for such a use. Redline would be my second option if you can no longer get RP.
3 - RP has performed great for you to this point and you have even seen the inside of the engine so you know it is working even after 70K+ of hard use so why would you even consider changing? Stick with what works. Also, the RP street oil you are using is an API SL oil which contains a higher level of ZDDP vs the current API SM oils out there so it actually is a better choice for your high HP hard running engine. If you decide to swap I would look towards an oil like Redline, Brad Penn, or Amsoil( think their SSO line has more ZDDP but not sure - I wouldn't select the XL line though as it is API SM ). Schaeffers would be another option to check into as I believe they run higher ZDDP levels as well. IF you ever bump the HP up to the 550-600+ HP range I would start considering the RP XPR racing oil.
4 - I was a pretty serious muscle car guy, hot rodder, and drag racer back in the day and used RP. Big blocks, small blocks, lightly modified and serious weekend drag engines. MOPARS and GM's mostly. Used RP in all of them. I have torn down a lot of engines in my time as well. I can honestly say the engines run on RP also turned out to be clean to the point of looking new and showed little to no wear other than what you would expect to see from break in. Some of those engines were broken down with far fewer miles( not due to failures = improvements )and they were drag only engines and some were 700+ HP. I have seen plenty of engines torn down with less than 70K run on lower quality oils that were in bad shape. I would not say as others have that the results RP returned for you were nothing to get excited about because any modern oil could do it. That just shows a lack of knowledge about how hard your kind of use is on an engine. I however would say the exact opposite( if ANY oil did that for you not just RP ). I would say your money was well spent and the results you saw justified your use of that product/oil.
5 - Amsoil offers excellent products BUT IMHO ignore anything they say about the competition. That company has a history of making false/misleading statements about the competition and their own products. That info you have with the Moly in RP was circulating back around 04/05 and they ended up having to back step and come off those claims. It is [censored]. Just like 99% of what they say about the products of other companies. IF you want to know about a product from another company like Penzoil, Redline, Schaeffers, RP, or any other company talk to that company NOT Amsoil. This is said with all due respect to those here who like Amsoil and guys like Pablo who are good guys. I wouldn't believe a thing Amsoil says about another company's product though and I tend to have doubts about what they say on their own. That is an earned reputation as well and not some personal bias based on nothing as so many here have towards RP. Amsoil products = exceptional. Amsoil marketing = [censored].
6 - Contrary to claims made by so many here there are NOT a ton of bad UOA's on RP in the UOA forum. There are a few but no more than other oils have. A year or so back, maybe a little longer, another member who liked RP as I do took the time to bump all the RP UOA's he could find and overwhelmingly they were positive. There have been a few members who did not have good results but they are the exception and not the norm. The other big UOA claim here against RP is that the 5W-30 sheers out of grade all the time. Those UOA's the guy bumped up disputed that claim as well. Again, not that it hasn't happened but not to the level the detractors claim. It is just one of those run-a-muck stories that as it travels grows bigger and more wild as it goes.
7 - ignore 95% of the negative comments made about RP on this site. Why? Well, not because I am an RP fan and want to fool you or anything but rather because the people making those comments haven't used RP themselves. The other 5% have and 5% of actual users complaining is is not out of the norm for any product. It is very fashionable on this site to bash RP and most who do haven't used it. Many admit to that fact as if it is something to be proud of while others you have to prod to get that admission from them. If you haven't used a product it escapes me how you can tell others it is bad?
Bottom line is it has worked for you and it has worked exceptionally well. No need to change. This site is a great resource but don't let others talk you out of or into anything especially when you have used a product and seen 1st hand that it is exceptional while the guy telling you it is [censored] hasn't ever used it.
I am generally not a Ford guy but very nice Stang!
Originally Posted By: 2k05gt
conservative intervals? why is changing at 5000 miles to early? I beat this car hard, I drive it like I stole it.. 70K and 3 set of tires, One Transmission and 2 sets of drag radials
That's not that much, 80k miles for me and I've had over 10 sets of tires
conservative intervals? why is changing at 5000 miles to early? I beat this car hard, I drive it like I stole it.. 70K and 3 set of tires, One Transmission and 2 sets of drag radials
That's not that much, 80k miles for me and I've had over 10 sets of tires
Strangest thing about marketing claims. RP was actually reprimanded for MPG and HP claims. Amsoil wasn't. Interesting. I'm just saying ALL oil companies make and do "stretched" claims. Not sure why you would think RP doesn't.
Originally Posted By: 2k05gt
conservative intervals? why is changing at 5000 miles to early? I beat this car hard, I drive it like I stole it.. 70K and 3 set of tires, One Transmission and 2 sets of drag radials
The Info I read was this...
I totally agree with something: That is a NICE CAR!
Sure, 5K with synthetic oil, even in your hard driven engine is not a "long" interval. It's not as if your engine is a true race engine. It's a street engine with mods, driven hard. 10K might be pushing it. For SURE - Next 5K UOA on RP, please do a UOA.
What happened to the tranny?
conservative intervals? why is changing at 5000 miles to early? I beat this car hard, I drive it like I stole it.. 70K and 3 set of tires, One Transmission and 2 sets of drag radials
The Info I read was this...
I totally agree with something: That is a NICE CAR!
Sure, 5K with synthetic oil, even in your hard driven engine is not a "long" interval. It's not as if your engine is a true race engine. It's a street engine with mods, driven hard. 10K might be pushing it. For SURE - Next 5K UOA on RP, please do a UOA.
What happened to the tranny?
Nice looking well maintained car! Welcome to Bitog.
I'm not a RP fan nor a user, no reason really. But in your case I'd stick with it, it is obviously working well for you.
As far as the claims of MOS2 being bad, those are based on observations from when it was used back in the 1950's and they were unable to get it to a nano particle size. I had a conversation with someone from Lubro-Moly and he explained to me all about MOS2. As long as it is the smaller sized particles it is actually quite good in engine oil, at least according to the Lubro-moly people, they make an additive, and an oil containing it.
I'm not a RP fan nor a user, no reason really. But in your case I'd stick with it, it is obviously working well for you.
As far as the claims of MOS2 being bad, those are based on observations from when it was used back in the 1950's and they were unable to get it to a nano particle size. I had a conversation with someone from Lubro-Moly and he explained to me all about MOS2. As long as it is the smaller sized particles it is actually quite good in engine oil, at least according to the Lubro-moly people, they make an additive, and an oil containing it.
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: 2k05gt
conservative intervals? why is changing at 5000 miles to early? I beat this car hard, I drive it like I stole it.. 70K and 3 set of tires, One Transmission and 2 sets of drag radials
The Info I read was this...
I totally agree with something: That is a NICE CAR!
Sure, 5K with synthetic oil, even in your hard driven engine is not a "long" interval. It's not as if your engine is a true race engine. It's a street engine with mods, driven hard. 10K might be pushing it. For SURE - Next 5K UOA on RP, please do a UOA.
What happened to the tranny?
Manual transmissions dont like sticky tires and high rpm clutch action.
Originally Posted By: 2k05gt
conservative intervals? why is changing at 5000 miles to early? I beat this car hard, I drive it like I stole it.. 70K and 3 set of tires, One Transmission and 2 sets of drag radials
The Info I read was this...
I totally agree with something: That is a NICE CAR!
Sure, 5K with synthetic oil, even in your hard driven engine is not a "long" interval. It's not as if your engine is a true race engine. It's a street engine with mods, driven hard. 10K might be pushing it. For SURE - Next 5K UOA on RP, please do a UOA.
What happened to the tranny?
Manual transmissions dont like sticky tires and high rpm clutch action.
Originally Posted By: DragRace
te]
Manual transmissions dont like sticky tires and high rpm clutch action.
This is true. Just wondering how it went, so to speak.
te]
Manual transmissions dont like sticky tires and high rpm clutch action.
This is true. Just wondering how it went, so to speak.
Nice car!!! If RP is working for you, then keep using it. Many here are not a big fan of RP due to cost and it does not hold up that well under long drain conditions. It is almost perfect for your application though, moderate OCI and lots of "abuse". Like others have stated, you can buy Redline or Amsoil for about the same price. If you really start to do more than drag runs, (like auto cross or track days) you may want to move up to Redline or Amsoil's racing oils (RD20, RD30) to provide better protection under the longer stress intervals. As for now, I would keep using it without question. Run what ever oil that lets you sleep at night.
RP is a great oil. Their 5w20 produced a stellar UOA for my car (as found on this site) after running it for the first 15,000 miles on my Mazda. I'd love to run it exclusively but planning for a kid doesn't allow me to spend extra money on maintenance vs something like PP.
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
2 - 70K in a 400+ HP engine that has been used as hard as you claim is NOT something just any modern oil would hold up to as some claim and return the results you have seen.
Incorrect.
Plain-Jane Mobil 1 0w-40 is specified for Porsches with way more than that, including turbocharged ones.
Even plainer-Janer Mobil 1 5w-30 is specified for the Corvette, and that hasn't been available with less than 400 hp for years.
I know what you meant -- i.e. you can't just toss in grocery store oil and have it work -- and you're probably right. But that's not really relevant, is it? The fact is that in this regard, RP is nothing special, and there is nothing to suggest that it performs any better than some cheaper oils.
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
Also, the RP street oil you are using is an API SL oil which contains a higher level of ZDDP vs the current API SM oils out there so it actually is a better choice for your high HP hard running engine.
Since when is ZDDP the only thing that protects against wear? SM is stricter with respect to wear control, as well as oxidation resistance, deposit control, foaming, low-temp performance, etc...
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
I would not say as others have that the results RP returned for you were nothing to get excited about because any modern oil could do it. That just shows a lack of knowledge about how hard your kind of use is on an engine.
If you're concerned about saying things without appropriate knowledge, why would you say that your experience from the 70s applies to modern engines?
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
Amsoil marketing = [censored].
The worst you could say about their advertising claims is that they are irrelevant. At least they involve repeatable tests on industry-standard equipment that anyone can check.
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
If you haven't used a product it escapes me how you can tell others it is bad?
Well, have you tested every single API-certified oil on the market in the OP's engine? How can you claim they won't work?
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
This site is a great resource but don't let others talk you out of or into anything
So, why are you posting?
2 - 70K in a 400+ HP engine that has been used as hard as you claim is NOT something just any modern oil would hold up to as some claim and return the results you have seen.
Incorrect.
Plain-Jane Mobil 1 0w-40 is specified for Porsches with way more than that, including turbocharged ones.
Even plainer-Janer Mobil 1 5w-30 is specified for the Corvette, and that hasn't been available with less than 400 hp for years.
I know what you meant -- i.e. you can't just toss in grocery store oil and have it work -- and you're probably right. But that's not really relevant, is it? The fact is that in this regard, RP is nothing special, and there is nothing to suggest that it performs any better than some cheaper oils.
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
Also, the RP street oil you are using is an API SL oil which contains a higher level of ZDDP vs the current API SM oils out there so it actually is a better choice for your high HP hard running engine.
Since when is ZDDP the only thing that protects against wear? SM is stricter with respect to wear control, as well as oxidation resistance, deposit control, foaming, low-temp performance, etc...
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
I would not say as others have that the results RP returned for you were nothing to get excited about because any modern oil could do it. That just shows a lack of knowledge about how hard your kind of use is on an engine.
If you're concerned about saying things without appropriate knowledge, why would you say that your experience from the 70s applies to modern engines?
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
Amsoil marketing = [censored].
The worst you could say about their advertising claims is that they are irrelevant. At least they involve repeatable tests on industry-standard equipment that anyone can check.
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
If you haven't used a product it escapes me how you can tell others it is bad?
Well, have you tested every single API-certified oil on the market in the OP's engine? How can you claim they won't work?
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
This site is a great resource but don't let others talk you out of or into anything
So, why are you posting?
Guys, Is Royal Purple XPR considered a HDEO?
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