RejeX polymer sealant
- Thread starter harry j
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Schmoe,
If you let the big juicy bug splatter dry, it will take a swipe or two with a sponge to get it all off. Try at least two coats of RejeX for best results.
I wonder if the RejeX is applied before a trip but not polished off- will it let even the biggest bug splatter drop off?
If you let the big juicy bug splatter dry, it will take a swipe or two with a sponge to get it all off. Try at least two coats of RejeX for best results.
I wonder if the RejeX is applied before a trip but not polished off- will it let even the biggest bug splatter drop off?
Originally Posted By: harry j
Schmoe,
If you let the big juicy bug splatter dry, it will take a swipe or two with a sponge to get it all off. Try at least two coats of RejeX for best results.
I wonder if the RejeX is applied before a trip but not polished off- will it let even the biggest bug splatter drop off?
It is a polymerizing coating. If you do not remove the haze within 30-45 minutes you will regret it. It is easier to remove graffiti. I discovered this issue while I was formulating it.
Ed
Schmoe,
If you let the big juicy bug splatter dry, it will take a swipe or two with a sponge to get it all off. Try at least two coats of RejeX for best results.
I wonder if the RejeX is applied before a trip but not polished off- will it let even the biggest bug splatter drop off?
It is a polymerizing coating. If you do not remove the haze within 30-45 minutes you will regret it. It is easier to remove graffiti. I discovered this issue while I was formulating it.
Ed
Originally Posted By: Edward Kollin
It is a polymerizing coating. If you do not remove the haze within 30-45 minutes you will regret it. It is easier to remove graffiti. I discovered this issue while I was formulating it.
What he said. I've got swirls because I left it on WAY to long
and they don't come off once hardened.
Great stuff otherwise.
Edward, are they still using the original formula or has it seen some changes?
It is a polymerizing coating. If you do not remove the haze within 30-45 minutes you will regret it. It is easier to remove graffiti. I discovered this issue while I was formulating it.
What he said. I've got swirls because I left it on WAY to long
Great stuff otherwise.
Edward, are they still using the original formula or has it seen some changes?
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Originally Posted By: Edward Kollin
Originally Posted By: harry j
Schmoe,
If you let the big juicy bug splatter dry, it will take a swipe or two with a sponge to get it all off. Try at least two coats of RejeX for best results.
I wonder if the RejeX is applied before a trip but not polished off- will it let even the biggest bug splatter drop off?
It is a polymerizing coating. If you do not remove the haze within 30-45 minutes you will regret it. It is easier to remove graffiti. I discovered this issue while I was formulating it.
Ed
You formulated Rejex? Great product, I like it on painted surfaces. I wasn't thrilled with it on my chrome polished center caps, they flash rusted very quickly with Rejex applied to them. But on paint the stuff is awesome!
Originally Posted By: harry j
Schmoe,
If you let the big juicy bug splatter dry, it will take a swipe or two with a sponge to get it all off. Try at least two coats of RejeX for best results.
I wonder if the RejeX is applied before a trip but not polished off- will it let even the biggest bug splatter drop off?
It is a polymerizing coating. If you do not remove the haze within 30-45 minutes you will regret it. It is easier to remove graffiti. I discovered this issue while I was formulating it.
Ed
You formulated Rejex? Great product, I like it on painted surfaces. I wasn't thrilled with it on my chrome polished center caps, they flash rusted very quickly with Rejex applied to them. But on paint the stuff is awesome!
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Originally Posted By: Edward Kollin
It is a polymerizing coating. If you do not remove the haze within 30-45 minutes you will regret it. It is easier to remove graffiti. I discovered this issue while I was formulating it.
What he said. I've got swirls because I left it on WAY to long
and they don't come off once hardened.
Great stuff otherwise.
Edward, are they still using the original formula or has it seen some changes?
A few subtle changes over the years mostly supply issues. A change in manufacturers a few years ago. Why do you ask?
Ed
Originally Posted By: Edward Kollin
It is a polymerizing coating. If you do not remove the haze within 30-45 minutes you will regret it. It is easier to remove graffiti. I discovered this issue while I was formulating it.
What he said. I've got swirls because I left it on WAY to long
Great stuff otherwise.
Edward, are they still using the original formula or has it seen some changes?
A few subtle changes over the years mostly supply issues. A change in manufacturers a few years ago. Why do you ask?
Ed
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
You formulated Rejex? Great product, I like it on painted surfaces. I wasn't thrilled with it on my chrome polished center caps, they flash rusted very quickly with Rejex applied to them. But on paint the stuff is awesome!
There are no corrosion inhibitors in Rejex but still, I do not understand the flash rusting of your polished caps. Chrome does not rust.
Ed
You formulated Rejex? Great product, I like it on painted surfaces. I wasn't thrilled with it on my chrome polished center caps, they flash rusted very quickly with Rejex applied to them. But on paint the stuff is awesome!
There are no corrosion inhibitors in Rejex but still, I do not understand the flash rusting of your polished caps. Chrome does not rust.
Ed
I bought a bottle about 4-5 years ago and the "consistency" seemed a little different than the bottle I bought 2 years ago. Both seemed to work just fine, though.
Originally Posted By: dkryan
Ed,
Can I use Rejex on my new outdoor light fixtures? The manufacturer recommends applying a "non-abrasive car wax" at least once per year.
We're talking brushed nickel or an antique brass finish.
It's Rejex or Insulator Wax.
Rejex would be great in this application. It is non abrasive.
Ed
Ed,
Can I use Rejex on my new outdoor light fixtures? The manufacturer recommends applying a "non-abrasive car wax" at least once per year.
We're talking brushed nickel or an antique brass finish.
It's Rejex or Insulator Wax.
Rejex would be great in this application. It is non abrasive.
Ed
Originally Posted By: Tempest
I bought a bottle about 4-5 years ago and the "consistency" seemed a little different than the bottle I bought 2 years ago. Both seemed to work just fine, though.
One reason we switched manufacturers.
Ed
I bought a bottle about 4-5 years ago and the "consistency" seemed a little different than the bottle I bought 2 years ago. Both seemed to work just fine, though.
One reason we switched manufacturers.
Ed
Originally Posted By: Tempest
What he said. I've got swirls because I left it on WAY to long
and they don't come off once hardened.
Great stuff otherwise.
You can remove swirls and Rejex with polishing compound then reapply.
What he said. I've got swirls because I left it on WAY to long
Great stuff otherwise.
You can remove swirls and Rejex with polishing compound then reapply.
Ed,
Would it be good to remove the RejeX while it is still a little wet?
Would it be good to remove the RejeX while it is still a little wet?
Originally Posted By: harry j
Ed,
Would it be good to remove the RejeX while it is still a little wet?
I have the same question. WHERE is ED, the re-formulator? I usually only wait about 5 minutes before I wipe it off. Then I wipe it again. Once I missed a spot for a few days and it was hard to remove.
Ed,
Would it be good to remove the RejeX while it is still a little wet?
I have the same question. WHERE is ED, the re-formulator? I usually only wait about 5 minutes before I wipe it off. Then I wipe it again. Once I missed a spot for a few days and it was hard to remove.
Removing RejeX while it's wet and/or not allowing it to cure will probably shorten its lifespan significantly. If you wipe it off while it's still wet, to a large part you're just wiping off everything you just applied without leaving much of a protective shield behind.
We have found that about 15 minutes of dwell time to allow the product to dry and haze up is about ideal. So unlike traditional waxes that tell you to do small sections at a time, with RejeX, you actually want to do relatively large sections for ideal longevity.
So on a typical sports car, I might start at the front smearing RejeX out as far as it will go and still leave a solid haze on everything I want to treat. In about 15 minutes, I can easily cover half a sports car or more. Then, I go back with a clean, soft rag and wipe it off. At the point the car is gleaming like made and is super smooth to the touch.
At that point, I go park it somewhere safe (i.e. where tree sap, mud and minerals from sprinklers and other contaminants won't get on it for 8-12 hours).
P.S. Ed Kollin is not the re-formulator, he is the formulator/inventor. Super-nice guy and freakishly brilliant.
We have found that about 15 minutes of dwell time to allow the product to dry and haze up is about ideal. So unlike traditional waxes that tell you to do small sections at a time, with RejeX, you actually want to do relatively large sections for ideal longevity.
So on a typical sports car, I might start at the front smearing RejeX out as far as it will go and still leave a solid haze on everything I want to treat. In about 15 minutes, I can easily cover half a sports car or more. Then, I go back with a clean, soft rag and wipe it off. At the point the car is gleaming like made and is super smooth to the touch.
At that point, I go park it somewhere safe (i.e. where tree sap, mud and minerals from sprinklers and other contaminants won't get on it for 8-12 hours).
P.S. Ed Kollin is not the re-formulator, he is the formulator/inventor. Super-nice guy and freakishly brilliant.
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Originally Posted By: harry j
Ed,
Would it be good to remove the RejeX while it is still a little wet?
As RejeX points out it is not a good idea. You will reduce the film thickness and maybe the film integrity if you remove the haze while still wet.
As far as building up thickness, you can use multiple coats allowing curing between, however you hit diminishing returns very quickly at two coats. Two coats is maybe 25% thicker than one.
Ed
Ed,
Would it be good to remove the RejeX while it is still a little wet?
As RejeX points out it is not a good idea. You will reduce the film thickness and maybe the film integrity if you remove the haze while still wet.
As far as building up thickness, you can use multiple coats allowing curing between, however you hit diminishing returns very quickly at two coats. Two coats is maybe 25% thicker than one.
Ed
Patman
Staff member
I know that I'm digging up a very old thread, but I found it today when doing a search for Rejex and thought I would bring it back to life since it has some great info, and it's great to see that the person who formulated it is on here! Unfortunately he hasn't posted anything since 2011, it would be cool if he could provide more answers to any new questions people might have.
I just finished polishing my Corvette (again yes, even though I just did it last week!) and started fresh again, so I could put on a coat of Rejex. I'm very interested in seeing how it performs, the two things I'm going to be looking for are if it prevents etching from bird bombs and if the paint still looks relatively clean if I'm caught driving in a rain storm. To me, Rejex sounds like it has a lot of the same properties as ceramic coating does, but without the fussiness of application that ceramic coatings have.
I just finished polishing my Corvette (again yes, even though I just did it last week!) and started fresh again, so I could put on a coat of Rejex. I'm very interested in seeing how it performs, the two things I'm going to be looking for are if it prevents etching from bird bombs and if the paint still looks relatively clean if I'm caught driving in a rain storm. To me, Rejex sounds like it has a lot of the same properties as ceramic coating does, but without the fussiness of application that ceramic coatings have.
Originally Posted By: Patman
I just finished polishing my Corvette (again yes, even though I just did it last week!) and started fresh again, so I could put on a coat of Rejex.
Two things are vital. A wipedown with rubbing alchol to remove the oils of the polish so Rejex can bond properly with the paint.
Second, leaving car in the garage over night so absolutely no moisture affects the curing process for 24 hours. Even the evening/morning dew can affect it.
Also focusing on proper washing so polishing/compounding aren't needed too often.
I've found a waterless wash to work the best for bird dirt. Best of both worlds, cleaning power and lubricity. Poorboys even sells a product for the purpose. It's called Bird Sh#t Remover.
Link
Another great product from them which can be diluted, 1:3 with water:
I just finished polishing my Corvette (again yes, even though I just did it last week!) and started fresh again, so I could put on a coat of Rejex.
Two things are vital. A wipedown with rubbing alchol to remove the oils of the polish so Rejex can bond properly with the paint.
Second, leaving car in the garage over night so absolutely no moisture affects the curing process for 24 hours. Even the evening/morning dew can affect it.
Also focusing on proper washing so polishing/compounding aren't needed too often.
I've found a waterless wash to work the best for bird dirt. Best of both worlds, cleaning power and lubricity. Poorboys even sells a product for the purpose. It's called Bird Sh#t Remover.
Link
Another great product from them which can be diluted, 1:3 with water:
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