Quote:
Correction: I meant to say "extended guard" vice "xtra guard".
Yea, lol I get those confused too sometimes! How the heck do they get "Extra Guard" from "PH" - Extended Guard for "XG" makes sense....and TG for Tough Guard makes sense....but wth with the "PH"? And to "Ex" and "X" with totally different product lines?
Originally Posted By: callbay
If you don't change the filter you are mixing the old flter full of old oil with the new oil. What a dumb thing to do!
So, empty the filter, and refill it with new oil during the oil change?
But then I guess that would defeat the whole "convenience"
You're down there, may as well change out the filter since you already took it off
But in all honesty, If you are running the TG or XG filter or any other "premium" filter, you should be able to go 10k on the filter. I know the FRAM XG (or is it the TG? I tend to get them mixed up.....) state they are warranted for 10k - WITH synthetic oil only though. Which has had me curious to an extent....how can a filter only be spec'd as a "synthetic only" filter? Granted, I understand an expensive filter won't allow a "cheap" conventional oil to be ran.....and maybe that's what the asterisk/footnote/fine print is for....so some dumb bass doesn't go filling up with PYB/GTX and trying to go 10k simply because they got a "10k" filter installed on the vehicle...?
Would it hurt the filter, or the car to use a conventional oil with the "for synthetic oil" filter?
Originally Posted By: Curtis Newton
I use synthetic and perform 5K oil changes and 10K oil/filter changes on our cars. I started that approach in 2001 with my A4 since Audi covered oil changes every 10K. I would use an oil extractor at the half-way mark, but leave the filter on. After positive results, I just continued that approach. I use OEM (on the A4) or Mobil 1/Fram Xtra Guard (on the RX330).
Sounds like a decent approach. The oil extractor obviously isn't taking the contaminants out of the filter, but if you're using a decent filter, they should stay stuck in there, and as mentioned, most filters work BEtter, as they get "full"....Another approach I've heard of, is emptying the filter, re-installing the filter, then cranking the vehicle over......but that could be quite "taxing" to the engine, since it would essential be a totally "dry start" not having any oil in the filter.