Recommendations for a built, track engine.

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Some background-
Back in the spring I spun a bearing in my 2000 Firebird. At the time I was out on Road Atlanta and the engine had a good sized cam that required spinning the thing to around 6500 rpm on a stock bottom end. It had 55K "hard" miles on it. Had roughly 250-300 1/4 mile passes on it, roughly the same amount of AutoX passes and something like 8 twenty minute sessions on Road Atlanta. Also had alot of "hard use" up in the N. Ga. mountains. I ran 10W30 for the first 10-20K miles on the engine, then switched to either 0W30 German Castrol,5W40 Castrol, M1 5W40, or 5W40 M1 depending on availability. I think my spun bearing might have been due to oil starvation during heavy breaking {got some good brakes on it, it will do 60-0 in less than 100ft} and cornering {lots of cornering forces due to 315/35/17 DOT race radials on all four corners}.

I just had a LS2 based 402 built for me that I want to last a LONG time. It's putting down 540RWHP at 6200 RPM and the rev limiter is set at 6700rpm which I'm assured is super easy on this engine. I will be installing an accusump so my oil starvation issues will hopefully be a thing of the past. Usage will change slightly from all the drag race and AutoX stuff to alot more open track/land speed events.

Finally, to my question. I know that German Castrol 0W30 is good stuff but availability is spotty around here and honestly I'm wondering if a 40W oil might fit my needs better for my application. I want something that is readily available anywhere because I might need make up oil at any time or any place. I was very curious about the synthetic 5W40 Rotella to tell you the truth. If none of the readily available oils will fit my needs, how about M1 Delvac {or whatever it's called now} 5W40? I can get it at my local heavy truck stop.

I know this is a question that repeatedly comes up and I did do some searching {alot actually} but I think due to the hard usage and possibly slightly "looser" build toleraces due to the inteanded usage of the egine it may need a slightly different oil than a normal LS1/LS2 engine. It's also just plain hard to digest all the information this site has to offer.
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I am no expert, but I will offer an opinion. Are you using an oil cooler? If so, Redline 10w40. If not, Mobil 1 15w50 or Redline 10w40 would still be my choice. I know it is out of vogue here, but I would never use a 30 weight in a high horsepower tracked car. Yes, you might give up some horsepower, but you will race another day. Without a cooler, you will probably see 300F oil temperatures on the track.

If you haven't, you might post this question here

http://www.frrax.com

They regularly track their f-bodies and have some great insights for this application.
 
If oil starvation is your problem I doubt oil was. You probably need a race sump with baffles to keep you oil pump wet.
 
If your usage is "RACE" then choose race products. Redline 30WT race oil is a multi so to speak 10/30. The baffled oil pan is also a very good decision. Redline, RP and other race oils with higher add packs are a good idea. And whatever oil you choose if you buy a 12-pack unless you have a drinking problem you will always have an extra on hand.
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how many rod bearings failed? was the failure close to the oil pump or further away?
using any oil that has a crude base oil wont hold up to abuse as road racing for very long.
try to buy the best lubricant available.
What bearing clearence does your new 402 come with?
if it is loose more than 2.5thou rod and mains then 20w50 can be used any tighter and 10w40 would be used.
nice power for the road course, ever been to Sebring?
I fell in love with that track
grin.gif
 
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I just had a LS2 based 402 built for me that I want to last a LONG time.



Your engine builder didn't give you any recommendations?

In any event, how about some details like main, rod clearances, piston type and clearances, crankshaft surface finish, any special coatings on pistons, bearings, etc, etc?

Taking a stab, without additional info, if you solve your oil starvation issues, a stout 30 or 40 should do it. Install some good oil temp and pressure gauges and fine tune your selection based on data you acquire on the track.
 
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If oil starvation is your problem I doubt oil was. You probably need a race sump with baffles to keep you oil pump wet.




I addressed the oil starvation with the accusump. Never blamed the oil.
 
Quote:


how many rod bearings failed? was the failure close to the oil pump or further away?
using any oil that has a crude base oil wont hold up to abuse as road racing for very long.
try to buy the best lubricant available.
What bearing clearence does your new 402 come with?
if it is loose more than 2.5thou rod and mains then 20w50 can be used any tighter and 10w40 would be used.
nice power for the road course, ever been to Sebring?
I fell in love with that track
grin.gif





Only one rod bearing failed but I forgot which one. I will try to find out what clearances were used for sure.

Never been to Sebring as it's a bit of a drive for me and I have alot of track choices available to me with-in four hours or so drive. I would like to get down there one day though.
 
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Quote:


I just had a LS2 based 402 built for me that I want to last a LONG time.



Your engine builder didn't give you any recommendations?

In any event, how about some details like main, rod clearances, piston type and clearances, crankshaft surface finish, any special coatings on pistons, bearings, etc, etc?

Taking a stab, without additional info, if you solve your oil starvation issues, a stout 30 or 40 should do it. Install some good oil temp and pressure gauges and fine tune your selection based on data you acquire on the track.




They told me a 30 weight but I honestly think it was canned response that they pretty much tell everyone. I know the stuff I do is alot harder than running on the drag strip or playing around on the strip. Just wanted some additional input. The idea of getting an oil temp gage is a good, one that I will try to adopt quickly.
 
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Quote:


Quote:


I just had a LS2 based 402 built for me that I want to last a LONG time.



Your engine builder didn't give you any recommendations?

In any event, how about some details like main, rod clearances, piston type and clearances, crankshaft surface finish, any special coatings on pistons, bearings, etc, etc?

Taking a stab, without additional info, if you solve your oil starvation issues, a stout 30 or 40 should do it. Install some good oil temp and pressure gauges and fine tune your selection based on data you acquire on the track.




They told me a 30 weight but I honestly think it was canned response that they pretty much tell everyone. I know the stuff I do is alot harder than running on the drag strip or playing around on the strip. Just wanted some additional input. The idea of getting an oil temp gage is a good, one that I will try to adopt quickly.




If you have to ask about engine clearence then an accurate answer will be hard to get unless you can find the engine build sheet with all the engine build info.
A oil temp gauge will give you a good idea how the oil holds up after 5/6 laps 300+ degrees will be the norm
 
Yea oil cooler, pressure and temp gauges, accusump and a baffled morroso pan with redline race 30 or 40 wt is what I would be running in a road race motor like that with an A/C or M1 filter.
You have a race car and would only run race oil in it. With redline may be expensive but so is that new motor. Buy it by the case on line or a dealer near you to always have some lying around.
 
It has a factory oil cooler and I will be adding an accusump and good gages. The aftermarket sump will have to wait awhile untill I can replenish the money tree that seems to have lost all of it's leaves.
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I'm running a K&N because I can get a larger version {AC decided to consolidate their filters and decided to keep only the short one} and I think it flows better. I change the oil enough that I don't worry about dirt much.

Do ya'll really think that something like a 10W40 Red Line is that much better than a 0W30/5W40 Syntech or M1? If yes is the general consensus then I will certainly look into it. How about Amsoil? I do have a dealer nearby and if I'm going to run an esoteric, hard to get oil I reckon having a dealer nearby is a good thing.
 
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