Project Fix the Rod Knock, can we do it? Lets talk

[TechnoLoGs]

Proposing that, if I commit to buy tools and take the time and step-by-step document the process, that BITOG would commit to helping me look at the rod and bearings, and ultimately have this be my first real, actual, engine work project.

I am uploading a video of the last time this ran, I am letting it cool now, but since this engine has been pushed/tested its luck enough, I now want to let it sit until I can remedy the problem, not pour Lucas in there and hope it fixes it, it is abundantly clear that it will not. I put it in there to get home as I had to take the S10 to get the old engine. No room in the F150.

It appears to stall out when hot, a la overheat. Surely the one superhot cylinder with the bad rod is to thank for that. No blown gaskets, no smokes, no drops, no residues.

You can hear it in the video, and I made some commentary. It now rests.

?

 

[cat843]

First - what is your motive, save money or learn?

Its odd that a single rod bearing would have a problem. But anything is possible.

The least amount of work would be to remove the pan, (Hopefully) find the piston with the bad rod bearing. Unbolt the rod cap, insert plastigauge, torque it back up and see what it says. You may be able to install a new bearing or a new slightly oversize bearing that compensates for wear. Use a micrometer on the crank bearing surface.

The better way is to pull the engine, have the crankshft machined and use oversize bearings and new seals.

 

[supton]

Got a friend with a borescope? If it's siezing up, the bad cylinder should have scuff marks.

 

[TechnoLoGs]

Originally Posted By: cat843
First - what is your motive, save money or learn?


Both.

$800 for the bearings guy texted me this morning, wanted to know if I still wanted him to do it.

The old engine is in the back.

 

[TechnoLoGs]

Originally Posted By: supton
Got a friend with a borescope? If it's siezing up, the bad cylinder should have scuff marks.


I might. Depends if this neighbor that is willing to help me totally reassemble the engine resurfaces.

How much they cost?

 

[LeakySeals]

$800 assumes nothing else is broke or on its way out. IMO engine swap makes better $$ sense unless you can DIY a rebuild.

 

[bigt61]

Cheaper to just buy a crank kit - here's one for a SBC for $170.

http://www.apmengineparts.com/chevrolet-350-v8-86-05-crankshaft-kit.html

 

[supton]

Swapping engines is probably the cheapest/fastest. Might be worth the core charge to keep the broken motor, and take it apart at your liesure. That is, if you need to get this back on the road any time soon. If you have time on your side, I'd pull the engine and take it apart. Worst case, you put it back together and use it as a core for a junkyard motor.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: cat843
First - what is your motive, save money or learn?


Both.

$800 for the bearings guy texted me this morning, wanted to know if I still wanted him to do it.

The old engine is in the back.
With the engine on a stand? Thats robbery if hes not going .01 under and installing a new timing set. Pull the pajn and pull the rod bearing and perform a visual then plastiguage the nasty ones. Cheap dirty and effective. OTW if you want a couple three years.
put in a rebuilt short block over your freshened heads; this should cost under one large.

 

[Brons2]

Originally Posted By: bigt61
Cheaper to just buy a crank kit - here's one for a SBC for $170.

http://www.apmengineparts.com/chevrolet-350-v8-86-05-crankshaft-kit.html


4.3 kit from the same site:
http://www.apmengineparts.com/general-motors-4-3-262-v6-98-05-crankshaft-kit.html

 

[Brons2]

What did this junkyard engine sound like when you first put it in??

 

[itguy08]

No oil pressure will tend to do that. Watch the oil pressure gague - it's not registering and blinking.

 

[dishdude]

Perfect opportunity to swap it for a 350.

 

[TechnoLoGs]

Originally Posted By: Brons2
What did this junkyard engine sound like when you first put it in??


I contacted the junkyard, ready to exchange as I have 30 day warranty, they say they looked high and low and were NOT able to find another VIN W 4.3.

I took those vids on my phone I will have to see if I can get them to show up right.

Now, how about this here http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-1993-W-SB-C...2b5&vxp=mtr ?

I notice the ones you included include the crank itself.......

And ARCO, yes, that guy wants WAYYYY too much money to just do bearings. I basically told him that I will see what I can do.

Putting in another engine is not out of the question but I have my old engine sitting in the back.

 

[TechnoLoGs]

Originally Posted By: dishdude
Perfect opportunity to swap it for a 350.


My neighbor they call him 'Bama since he from Alabama said the same exact exact thing. Said even the motor mounts were the same.

Trans tho?

 

[itguy08]

At a minimum you're going to need an oil pumkp, crank and bearings. Possibly rods, pistons, rings and a hone job.

It's been run with 0 oil pressure, it's got to be torn down and rebuilt.

IOW: Stick a fork in it, it's done.

 

[TechnoLoGs]

Engine $225 will it fit?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-GM-4-3-V6-...020&vxp=mtr

And, itguy08: I believe the OP sender unit is not functioning. Unless you believe it to be accurate?

Or http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-1995-Chevy-...9a7&vxp=mtr

 

[TechnoLoGs]

Halfway through the trip that ended in the above video. It sounds like this before it fully warms up and whatever is happening makes it stall.

 

[Brons2]

sounds pretty good other than the rod knock.

 

[TechnoLoGs]

Originally Posted By: Brons2
sounds pretty good other than the rod knock.


^^^ This.

I am just about ready to ask how to take off the oil pan, let me cut and paste what GreeCGuy posted in the other thread, with the knocking Cavalier:

Quote:
How easy is it to drop the oil pan? If it's easy to drop, you can drop the pan and check for rod play, (simply grab the bottom of the rods and see if you can wiggle them back and forth. If you have a spun bearing, you will be able to move them with your hand).

If it is a rod bearing, the expensive way is to have the crank removed, turned and new bearings installed. The cheap way, (which I have done), is to drop the pan, remove the cap on the bad bearing, clean the crankshaft with emery cloth, and install a new standard size bearing. It's a gamble as depending on the damage done it might work and it might not. The expense of the cheap way is the price of the bearing, oil pan gasket, and of course the oil and filter, (this is all assuming the pan is easy to remove).


Can that do it if Im lucky? No $800 repair bills for nothing (anymore?)