Power Steering Flush

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Even though most manufacturers don't periodically call for changing the power steering fluid, I would recommend it. I have heard of way too many Ford P/S units failing. In my 2000 Taurus, I use Amsoil synthetic ATF; in my 1993 Civic, I use Genuine Honda (it's a partial synthetic). I finally got my son to change the P/S fluid in his '97 Buick with Valvoline SynPower Power Steering Fluid (partial synthetic). Cheap preventitve maintenance. A new pump, rack and gear can easily cost $1500.

[ July 22, 2005, 11:36 AM: Message edited by: TxGreaseMonkey ]

 

[V1]

Agreed. I just changed out the P/S fluid in my '04 Mazda 6, which is more or less a Ford. My car has 38k, miles, and this was my first P/S fluid change.

So far, I've performed a total of 10 drain/refill's of my P/S reservoir. I used the turkey bastor method each day after driving to complete the process. Each of the bottles represents two reservoir drain/refill's. You can clearly see the physical differences in the link below.

Mazda calls for ATF Mercon III, V or equivalent. I went with Castrol's Mercon V, and steering has become noticeably smoother.

The bottle on the left is from the first two drain/refill's, and the right from the ninth and tenth.

http://tinypic.com/98t05c.jpg

 

[Ken2]

Auto-Rx is excellent for cleaning the power steering system and reconditioning seals before renewing the fluid.

I added a 1/2" Magnefine inline filter to the return line of the power steering in everything in the family fleet.

Lubegard Power Steering Fluid or Power Steering Protectant really does make a difference.


Ken

 

[TheTanSedan]

Easy enough to do as well. Set it up from beginning to do an ARX clean-out and fluid flush and it only takes 1/2 hour or so to jack front end up, remove filter, drain, flush (with helper at ignition and moving steering wheel slowly from lock-to-lock) and refill. (ATF same way).

I added a cooler (DERALE; tube & fin identical to OEM), a filter (MAGNEFINE), both in return line using NAPA hydraulic hose more highly rated than necessary, as a complete assembly from return to cooler to filter -- the filter mounted low for easy access (but well protected) -- and back to pump. (Good time to pull orifice screen from return line inlet to clean out.)

Assembled all, covered with high-temp sheathing, in very gentle bends to reduce any stress, bound with wide nylon zip-ties to itself and to body points; all no more than 4-6" apart and doubled at stress points. Hose connections were "no-torque" band clamps. Entire assembly comes in and out as a factory style "harness". Still looked beautiful after tens of thousands of miles.

ATF/PSF was SCHAEFFERS 204-Supreme for both vehicles (truck and jeep); a blend that has excellent reviews and has worked very well in the transmissions/power steering systems of both (as a substitute for MOPAR ATF+4).

 

[JohnBrowning]

I like to put in a couple of onces of LC a few months before I drain and refill the P/S. It acts like a flush. I use 4 onces.

I have also used MMO to flush but it does not work as well and takes a lot more.

As a preventive maintence item I like Specialty Formulations SX-UP. Put 2-4 onces in the p/s system and you are styling!

 

[coopns]

Not to jump in the middle of this but...

I haven't changed the PS fluid in my 95 Taurus or 02 Caravan. So if I don't get a flush, I can just use a Turkey baster, draw out whatever fluid is there, fill and continue the process a few times. That's it?

 

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Yup. Ford calls for Mercon; therefore, you could use Mobil 1 ATF. Use a battery squeeze bulb from Advance Auto. Costs $2.99, works much better than a turkey baster, and is not affected by oil.

 

[drifter420]

how far do you drain it? Just curious cause I'm thinkin if it's drained too much off the resovoir, wouldn't it create air pockets? Sorry.. noobie question..

Mobil 1 ATF as steering fluid ??? Wow.. never thought of that

 

[1maniac]

To purge any air make a few figure-8 turns. Make sure you rotate the wheel lock to lock.

 

[Big Jim]

Just have the engine off when you remove the fluid. Suck out as much as you can easily reach and replace it with fresh fluid. You will not introduce air into the system doing it this way.

 

[baomo]

what do you look for when checking PS fluid?

my VW takes a clear, i guess hydraulic fluid. it looks easy enough to change but everytime i check it looks nice and clear, doesn't smell offensive. does it become acidic with time or something?

 

[trynew]

Do you mean clear on the dipstick? Fluids that are dirty can look clean when the fluid is only a hundredth of a inch thick, but they will look different if you suction some out with a turkey baster and put in in a clear glass.

 

[baomo]

yea clean on the dipstick or my pinky.
guess i'll change it anyway see what it looks like.

 

[unDummy]

I've been using Mobil-1 ATF for years as my PS fluid of choice. It works great in every vehicle that I've used it in.

Almost any synthetic or blend ATF will be better performing then most of the cheap OTC PS fluids.

Those two clear bottles and sunlight tell the story.

Its an easy fluid to drain/refill. Why wait for the fluid to be toast? Change it regularly. I siphon/refill at every OCI. The PS reservoirs never get dark and so far the pumps/rack last forever!

By renewing the PS fluid regularly, you'll never need cleaners/addtives.

By using a synthetic, you'll reduce the chance of baking the fluid.

Adding filtration and cooling is worth it but not necesary in most applications.

 

[y_p_w]

I did a couple of PS changes "by the book" for my '95 Acura Integra GS-R. That service wasn't done since I bought the car new up to about 125K miles.

I just hooked up the return hose to a funnel extension that fit perfectly. A little tape can keep it from disconnecting. The extension went into a quart bottle. The power steering pump will groan like you wouldn't believe. You'll think your baby is in pain. The color of the old PS fluid was an extremely dark brown compared to the light amber new fluid. I did it again to remove as much of the old oxidized fluid as I could.

Of course the PS pump was the only part under the hood that was taken when my car was stolen and stripped.

 

[kingrob]

When I bought my first Crown Vic I drained the PS fluid and topped it off with Dex3/Merc and it didn't seem as smooth. Then I realized it took type F atf and swapped it back out for a smooth performance. I didn't realize as late as '93 the PS units still called for type F fluid.

 

[PandaBear]

Clear PS fluid is normal, thats what Pyroil (spelling?) PS fluid looks like out of the bottle. Just use that and it cost around $3 a quart or $2 per 12oz.

 

[oilmanatwork]

I change my PS fluid on my 98 Escort every oil change (well most every one Its one of those things. Keeps it clean and quite. I bought a Wynns Power Steering service tool. Basicaly two 12v pumps in a tool box for like $750 or something along those lines. But anything that sucks works. Why not do it on a regular basis. Customers vehicals that do not do it often have nasty looking fluid full of metalic stuff (well most of the time)

 

[Ignatz]

I also change my power steering fluid in my Escort, Safari cargo van and Benz. I mix in Prestone power steering fluid with Stop Leak. My older Escort had a power steering leak and this stuff really worked. I quess I'm hooked on something that saved me a repair. The Benz 190e has a power steering canister with a replacement filter for the ultimate in power steering maintainace. The Ford and M-B get mostly DexronIII, but the GM van gets straight Prestone PS fluid with stop leak. Is Type F a NO-NO in a Ford or Mercedes system that calls for Dexron II or III ? Just curious, I've got a couple of quarts laying around.

 

[ARB1977]

I guess its time to do mine eventhough i had the pump replaced 15K ago do to it leaking (under warrenty).