Post your self-destructing engines...

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Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: HKPolice
Originally Posted By: CBR.worm
My vote for most destructing engines would be the V8 in the B6 Audi S4. Massive timing chain problems (if I recall correctly there were 5 chains), the chains were up against the firewall and required an engine drop to address.

4audis4repairdenver.JPG


GERMAN ENGINEERING!


That's just ridiculously over-complicated.

BMW S62:
7799683938_ac9149082c_b.jpg

Mercedes AMG V8:
mercedes-benz_amg_v8081.jpg



INA saw those those guys coming from miles and miles away...
 
Originally Posted By: emg
Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
The point of buying a new car is so it isn't worn out and you don't have to add 2 quarts of oil every fill up.


Not really. The point of buying a new car is that you have a warranty to get things fixed when they go wrong.

New cars have design faults and manufacturing faults. Old cars wear out (because most of the ones with design and manufacturing faults were fixed or are in the scrapyard).

Also, a lot of the engine faults like oil consumption are probably due to the continual push for better fuel economy. Pistons get smaller, piston rings get lower tension, and oil gets thinner. Manufacturers wouldn't be pushing so hard if Obama and co weren't pushing for higher mpg.


What a bunch of morons. Okay, the car gets better fuel economy, but I wonder how much the chronic oil burning impacts the emissions.

Also, the warranty won't cover a new engine when the engine burns all the oil, since it states right in the manual that 1000 miles per quart of oil is acceptable, so they will fault the owner of the vehicle.
 
1980s GM 2.5 "Iron Duke". The plastic camshaft gear was an awful idea in an otherwise reliable engine. At least with a timing belt, they were designed to be replaced at a fixed interval. Nope, this thing would shed a few teeth, and in a typical FWD application, there was no way to replace it without pulling the engine. Been there, done that, after one left me stranded on the road after 90,000 miles.
 
Originally Posted By: Dave Sherman
1980s GM 2.5 "Iron Duke". The plastic camshaft gear was an awful idea in an otherwise reliable engine. At least with a timing belt, they were designed to be replaced at a fixed interval. Nope, this thing would shed a few teeth, and in a typical FWD application, there was no way to replace it without pulling the engine. Been there, done that, after one left me stranded on the road after 90,000 miles.


It was just a miserable engine. MAP sensor problems, EGR problems....etc...

I hate that they put it in the Fiero. Ever drive a Fiero with a 2.5 and a TH125? It's a terrible combination for a sports car! It was like 12+ seconds 0-60. about 1.5 seconds slower than a Bertone X1/9. That might actually be slower than a CRX-hf. About 4 seconds slower than a CRX-Si or a Mark1 MR-2.

Coming out of a corner, punch it and a bunch of noise happens behind you but you don't really accelerate much. Light car, good traction, putt-putt motor.

I'm honestly surprised that they didn't go with the SOHC 1.8/2.0. I don't even like that engine very much but it would have been a better match. Opel models of the SOHC 1.8/2.0 made considerably more horsepower and only came up a few ft-lbs short on torque vs the Lo-TechIV. And the turbo 1.8/2.0? You won't worry about CRX Si's or supercharged MR-2s again.

You could get an aluminum cam gear from the aftermarket.....of course that means changing it
 
Quote:

2 friends of mine left their RX-7 turbo models completely stock, and maintained them at their dealer. Both got only 90,000 miles from their engines. they never ran their car on a track, only on the street.


Model years? What were the failures exactly?
 
Quote:


Directly from an absolutely RABID RX7 cultist: a turbo 13B is going to be pretty much done by 75,000 miles...might get a bit more if you drive like your grandmother.


I'm waiting for someone to tell me how or why a turbo rotary, aside from a 13B-REW would have early engine failure, and I'm not seeing it yet.

And if you truly are a rabid rotary cultist, then you should know that any rotary engine driven like a grandmother is going to carbon up its rotors like a demon, being an oil injected engine, and may eventually receive a stuck apex seal as a result, same way that piston engines get stuck rings.

So, please give to me a technical explanation as to exactly what model years of turbo rotary you are referring to, and exactly what failures one could expect, and why these failures would occur, that the engine would be "done" by 75,000 miles.
 
^^ Agreed. I've had three and the youngest one to die was 125,000 miles old. Driving a rotary like a grandmother? Dont do that.
 
My Lemons:

1988 Plymouth Sundance with the 2.2 N/A motor. Popped a head gasket around 85k.

1996 Saturn SL1. Head cracked, replacement engine burned massive oil.

But we've had some engines that people swore were junk but very reliable for us. 1998 Windstar with the 3.8; we junked it at 205k miles; stock gaskets and tranny. We were not easy on that van either. Rust and other repairs killed it.


Our '14 1.4 turbo Sonic with 18k on the clock burns no oil from a visual standpoint after 6k miles. It was a dealer loaner for the first 2,600 miles of it's life, so I'm assuming it got broke in hard!
 
As far as the 3.0 Vulcan, those tings were as bulletproof as they come. Sorry somebody got a bad one. I have one with over 200K miles on it and it has never been opened up. Rare to see one in the shop for anything base engine related. Only job I remember on one, as far as an internal problem, was a defective camshaft that broke (casting occlusion).

HT4100- My machine shop for a few years running had a stack of aluminum 4100 blocks in a big pile behind the shop. Couple weeks before vacation the machinist would call a recycler to pick up all that aluminum so he could have a happy week off.

3.8 Ford V6 (Taurus Sable Continental)- Headgasket blowing, oil leaking, just a techs dream engine. Did so many of those I just went to sleep working on them.

PRV V6- Never have run across anyone with something good to say about those. I worked on a few in my independent days (Volvos and a DeLorian). Miserable to work on.
 
Originally Posted By: CBR.worm
My vote for most destructing engines would be the V8 in the B6 Audi S4. Massive timing chain problems (if I recall correctly there were 5 chains), the chains were up against the firewall and required an engine drop to address.

4audis4repairdenver.JPG


I'll +1 that! In addition to that, the A/C compressor was shaft driven off of one of the sprockets in the lower left of the picture and it liked to snap in half. I think step one to fix that is also "pull the engine".

The 2003-05 allroads used this engine also because the timing belt version of the 4.2 was too long to fit in the engine bay.
 
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Originally Posted By: cb_13
The 2.5L Iron Duke. Nothing says reliable GM powerplant like the rod snapping, Fiero burning 2.5!


I had one in a 250K mile S-10. Most reliable vehicle I ever owned.
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Quote:


Directly from an absolutely RABID RX7 cultist: a turbo 13B is going to be pretty much done by 75,000 miles...might get a bit more if you drive like your grandmother.


I'm waiting for someone to tell me how or why a turbo rotary, aside from a 13B-REW would have early engine failure, and I'm not seeing it yet.

And if you truly are a rabid rotary cultist, then you should know that any rotary engine driven like a grandmother is going to carbon up its rotors like a demon, being an oil injected engine, and may eventually receive a stuck apex seal as a result, same way that piston engines get stuck rings.

So, please give to me a technical explanation as to exactly what model years of turbo rotary you are referring to, and exactly what failures one could expect, and why these failures would occur, that the engine would be "done" by 75,000 miles.


Last-gen RX7 turbo, whatever that was...his lost apex seals by 65K.
 
3E-E 1.5L - Toyota Tercel

Burning 1 quart of oil every 2 weeks. Reliable engine otherwise but had massive oil consumption issues, not just my car.
 
Originally Posted By: Jarlaxle
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Quote:


Directly from an absolutely RABID RX7 cultist: a turbo 13B is going to be pretty much done by 75,000 miles...might get a bit more if you drive like your grandmother.


I'm waiting for someone to tell me how or why a turbo rotary, aside from a 13B-REW would have early engine failure, and I'm not seeing it yet.

And if you truly are a rabid rotary cultist, then you should know that any rotary engine driven like a grandmother is going to carbon up its rotors like a demon, being an oil injected engine, and may eventually receive a stuck apex seal as a result, same way that piston engines get stuck rings.

So, please give to me a technical explanation as to exactly what model years of turbo rotary you are referring to, and exactly what failures one could expect, and why these failures would occur, that the engine would be "done" by 75,000 miles.


Last-gen RX7 turbo, whatever that was...his lost apex seals by 65K.


That's the 13B-REW that I mentioned earlier, and yes, that particular one was definitely a bomb. Every system on that engine worked against it. But the 13B-REW represented a minority of the turbo rotary engines.
 
Originally Posted By: horse123
Did someone already mention powerjoke 6.0? Had to have...


Yup, the International VT365 has already been mentioned, though the Maxxforce 7 should also be shoved in there, as it wasn't really any better and got markedly worse fuel economy to boot.

Emissions really screwed International. Their implementation of EGR was horrific.
 
'96-'99 Ford Taurus SHO V8. The cam gears would spin on the cams and then the valves meet the pistons. I would say 80% failure unless the cam gears were welded to the camshafts by the owner. Ford never did admit it had a problem.

Here's what would happen to them.

cam-sprocket-splines.jpg


And how you fixed them.

my_cam_weld_33.jpg


There was a nice side industry welding them are various locations around the country.
 
Originally Posted By: Pontual
Originally Posted By: 02SE
Ford 3.0 Vulcan V6 in my Mom's Ford Taurus. It was always strictly maintained by me, since I worked as an ASE Master Tech at the time. Oil changes, coolant changes, transmission service, etc. all performed on time with high quality fluids.

The lifters started sticking at about 20k.

The main bearings developed excess clearance with some audible knocking at about 23k.

Too many water pumps to count.

Not the engine itself but other parts failed often too.

Power Steering pumps.

A couple power steering racks.

Numerous factory Alternators.

The trans was rebuilt at 30k, 65k, and finally at 95k.

A headgasket finally let go at just over 100k, and I told my Mom it was time to stop throwing good money after bad.

I got her a Camry. It has had exactly zero problems in the last 13+ years. It still runs as good as the day it drove off the lot. A marked contrast to that POS Taurus.


Abused car? Let's see:

"The lifters started sticking at about 20k." You changed the oil, really?

"The main bearings developed excess clearance with some audible knocking at about 23k." Excess load and rpms do that

"Too many water pumps to count." Excess rpm gives that

Not the engine itself but other parts failed often too.

"Power Steering pumps." Not engine related, just bashing the car

"A couple power steering racks." same here

"Numerous factory Alternators." Redlining all day long gives you that

"The trans was rebuilt at 30k, 65k, and finally at 95k." Full throttle takeoff launches gives that.

"A headgasket finally let go at just over 100k, and I told my Mom it was time to stop throwing good money after bad." Low grade gasoline on abused car gave you that.

About the Camry, let me guess: You weren't driving neither maintaining her cars anymore.


Yeah I bet his Mom really loved revving that Vulcan.
crazy2.gif


As a former 3.0L Vulcan owner, who also maintained the vehicle properly, I can tell you mine went through water pumps like changing underwear. We stopped buying refurbs but Ford dealer pumps were no better. Mine also went through a rack. So did all 3 of my brother's Taurus's/Sable's. Mine also went through an A/C, as did all 3 of my brother's. That was about it for him but my pain only ended for me when the heads went up at 170K. I paid for every mile over 60K like a new car monthly payment in parts and labor. It was hands down the worst vehicle I ever owned. I will say this, the block and heads lasted 170K, except for the camshaft position sensor, and the transmission failed, though I hated it's behavior. Just about everything else on that care failed regularly.

And, by the way, calling people a liar is bad form, even on the Internet.

Maybe you had a great experience with your Taurus. Not everyone has.

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/attachments/odds-ends/67738d1372223527-taurus-memes-39141010.jpg

http://i1253.photobucket.com/albums/hh591/joshschmitt98/modtaurusmeme_zps04a282e4.jpg

http://cdn.meme.am/instances/500x/43811536.jpg
 
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Originally Posted By: cb_13
The 2.5L Iron Duke. Nothing says reliable GM powerplant like the rod snapping, Fiero burning 2.5!


Don't forget the phenolic Resin Composite timing gear, mine went out on a superhighway bridge with no shoulders at 86K. Fortunately it was a non-interference motor. Unfortunately the procedure for changing it was "pull the motor".
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
'96-'99 Ford Taurus SHO V8. The cam gears would spin on the cams and then the valves meet the pistons. I would say 80% failure unless the cam gears were welded to the camshafts by the owner. Ford never did admit it had a problem.

Here's what would happen to them.

cam-sprocket-splines.jpg


And how you fixed them.

my_cam_weld_33.jpg


There was a nice side industry welding them are various locations around the country.


Weren't those engines produced by Yamaha?
 
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