Portable Jump Starter - Clore Automotive JNC770R

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I am in the market for a portable jump starter unit. From my research, it appears that the JNC660 or the newer JNC770R (longer cables, on/off switch, flashlight) provide superior performance, better long-term reliability and easier serviceability (i.e. battery replacements) than the smaller lithium-based units.

https://cloreautomotive.com/product/1700-peak-amp-premium-12-volt-jump-starter/

Does anyone have experience with the JNC660/770R units?
 
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Have several. Does not matter how dead the battery is, or what you are trying to jump. Gas or big diesel. If you hook it to a vehicle, either it's going to start or it's going to flip onto its roof. Been to many colleagues operations that had multiple units on site.

As the old saying goes, "It's what the professionals use".
 
I have the older version of that one and have had it for a few years and its worked well the few times I have used it.

But keep in mind that its got a lead acid battery and if you leave the Jump Starter in the vehicle and its 0F outside and your car won't start, then having a Jump Starter that is also 0F will not hep much. Jumper cables would be better.

I keep mine inside and warm. Its used at my house.

It also matters how large the engine is you are going to start. For many the ones with a lithium battery may be fine.

But when looking at ones with a lead acid battery, typically the heavier the better.
 
I bought a 770R 18 months ago and cannot recommend it. Within 5 weeks the LED light, USB ports, and charging port were all dead. Shipping to do a warranty exchange was going to be $30 but the guy on the phone told me that I could just charge the battery through the cables; I ended up opting for this option because I didn't really need the LED light or other accessories. After a total of one jump-start of a diesel tractor and charging the battery monthly through the leads using a CTEK MUS4.3 on the .8 amp setting, the battery is no longer holding a charge and my charger is showing a battery fault. For a ~$140 jump-pack, I really expected more out of it.

I have a Stanley FATMAX jump starter that I picked up two black Fridays ago for ~$30 and while it is bulkier than the 770R, it has been more reliable, the battery is still holding a charge (also charging this one through the leads), and has had no trouble starting my Subaru Impreza or Ford C-Max.
 
I have 770R and its works great, never a problem starting a vehicle, It doesn't seem much different from the one you linked to. I carry a Clore JNC318 in the car, it is also excellent and holds a charge a long time. The most important feature on that one if you live in a cold climate is the pre heat function, its a game changer.
 
Originally Posted by Trav
I have 770R and its works great, never a problem starting a vehicle, It doesn't seem much different from the one you linked to. I carry a Clore JNC318 in the car, it is also excellent and holds a charge a long time. The most important feature on that one if you live in a cold climate is the pre heat function, its a game changer.


What function does the pre-heat function do?
 
The big issue with this type of jump starter is like any other battery they lose power when cold so if left in the car overnight in cold weather output will be significantly reduced.
The pre heat function uses a small amount of power to warm the battery so its puts out almost full power. It really works well.
 
I have both and use them without question. The 660's in the office and 770 at the home shop. The flashlight and on/off switch is convenient and I use it to power up the memory when replacing batteries. I had the NOCO GB70 in the trunk of my car and the LiO battery expanded where the case cracked and bulged. Either 660 or 770 will be fine.
 
Originally Posted by Trav
The big issue with this type of jump starter is like any other battery they lose power when cold so if left in the car overnight in cold weather output will be significantly reduced.
The pre heat function uses a small amount of power to warm the battery so its puts out almost full power. It really works well.


Wouldn't any jump starter move electricity to the dead(ish) battery and start to warm it up? Maybe the only thing here is a green light indicating enough electricity has moved that one should now try starting (based upon voltage of battery that had been dead)?

Reading various reviews of the lithium based ones it seems there are a lot of manufacturing issues with the products, arriving with a battery that is damaged or will not hold a charge. But I have not read that about LiIon batteries for tools.
 
It seems it wont because the pre heat take a few min. I have had this one about a year now and only had to charge it once, no battery issues.
As far as the ones for tools Milwaukee is the worst of the worst, lots and lots of failures in the 12V line.
 
The Most common battery in the Lead acid jumper packs is an 18AH AGM battery.

I am not convinced there is much is any difference among the many different brands that one can find when searching 18AH AGM on Ebay or Amazon and prices range from 32 to 75$

The UB12180 is an Asian made AGM battery and could simply be relabelled by all the different sellers, but their indicated weights do vary according to the listing, which would indicate differences in internal structue, but who really knows without having weighing and testing them side by side.

One pays a lot for the jumper packs plastic housing and leads, but the batteries within are pretty easily replaced.

The Asian made UB12180 does NOT have the super low self discharge of higher quality AGMS, and they are not immune to sulfating when sitting in an undercharged state.

The Chargers which come in many of these jumper packs are single voltage low amperage wall warts, with many able to provide 0.5 amps and maxing out at 13.6v. Very far from ideal for a well discharged AGM

ideally, the UB12180 when discharged to 50% or below, would receive about 6 amps until 14.5 to 14.9v was achieved at the battery terminals, then that electrical pressure held until the flow( amperage) which is determined by the battery in a constant voltage stage, tapers down to just less than 0.1 amps.

AGMs can and will be tickled to death if heavily discharged and fed very light charging currents, even if they are held on the charging source for days and eventually reach full charge.

The ONLY way to determine full charge on an AGM is by holding it at the absorption voltages, and checking to see how much amperage the battery accepts. Once it tapers to 0.5% of the battery capacity at absorption voltage, only then can it be considered fully charged.

The green light on smart or incorporated charging sources is merely guessing at 'good enough'

A Lead acid battery promptly and properly returned to full charge ASAP will give great performance over an impressive lifespan. Anything less than this reduces its potential to some degree. The lower below a true 100% state of charge the battery rests at, and the longer it rests there, the faster it loses its capacity.

Misers wanting a jumper pack can just buy a 18Ah AGM and use jumper cables, or buy an old one in a garage sale and easily replace the battery, though some may require long reach torx bits to disassemble.

I've no personal experience with the lithium jumper packs but have herd them both blessed and cursed.
 
Here is a "Jump pack" I made for jumping off lawn mowers and atvs.

50 amp Anderson's seem to do just fine with 6awg cables.

I rotate the battery occasionally into a mower that I will sell and buy a new one for the jump pack...to rotate again.


A 300cca deka will usually test 375+ cca.

03E15178-8EB1-454A-8596-F50924C37040.jpeg
 
The Clore JNC units do seem to have one of the better reputations and the internal batteries are likely a step up in quality from some of the cheaper units with complete no-name batteries inside. Even though almost 100% of the AGM batteries used in these units are made in China, there is a quality difference between vendors. I see this with computer battery backups which use the same types of batteries: Well known and established battery vendors such as CSB and BB Battery seem to make longer lasting batteries than some of the no-names with allegedly similar specs. Also, just like their larger counterparts, these batteries can be constructed in a way that prefers high current delivery or cycle usage where the battery delivers low current for a longer period of time.

You're definitely right on the lead acid models being easier to service than lithium. It may be hard to find a replacement internal battery for one of the compact lithium models after a few years. For the lead acid models, you can purchase replacements online or even locally through stores like Batteries Plus Bulbs.

My opinion is that the lithium models are best when space is at a premium, for example if it is being stored in a car with limited cargo space rather than sitting on a shelf in the garage/shop. For the lithium models, I would considering one with a Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) battery as it is a safer and more durable chemistry, especially in a harsh environment like a car.

I agree with everyone on the cold weather performance issues. It is definitely something to keep in mind. I have also personally experienced problems using portable jump starters on a battery that has a bad or shorted cell... sometimes that is just too much for the jump starter to overcome.
 
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Originally Posted by zzyzzx
Whatever happened to just keeping jumper cables in your car?

Used to be someone would stop and help if they saw your hood up.

Now, honestly, I'd rather they didn't.
 
Thanks guys. It sounds like most experiences have been positive. I ordered one yesterday from The Tool Warehouse, and it arrived this morning via FedEX ground. Tool Warehouse fulfills their orders thru Medco and Medco has a warehouse that is only 2 hours away, so lucky me.

I have not had a chance to use the unit, but it looks very well built. It did come fully charged.

BD0900C7-0158-4023-9052-D08B906B1043.jpeg
 
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