Pennzoil Claims Formulation of Platinum Changed to Reflect New 15,000-mile Guarantee On Bottle

[buster]

And is it sort of the general opinion. Around here that the current M1 EP is a step down in the quality of the ingredients from the old AP from a few years ago?

Mobil had a hard time selling AP over EP. EP at the time was rated for 15k and AP 20k. The price difference was enough to sway people from buying it so it ended up not selling well. They then made Mobil 1 EP a 20k mile oil.

The Triple Action is completely different than both of those previous formulations though.

 

[john_pifer]

Mobil had a hard time selling AP over EP. EP at the time was rated for 15k and AP 20k. The price difference was enough to sway people from buying it so it ended up not selling well. They then made Mobil 1 EP a 20k mile oil.

The Triple Action is completely different than both of those previous formulations though.

Interesting.

I haven’t kept up with the formulations as much as I used to, but I always get back into it and nerd out when I buy a new vehicle.

Is the “Triple Action” the current formulation?

I remember the TriSyn from a long time ago. I remember that being very well-regarded.

Maybe they’re trying to reincarnate some of the love people had for that formulation?

 

[john_pifer]

Why did you go with 5w30 in the Ody? Just curious of your logic to see if I need to learn something. Not starting a fight unless you are one of the Thickie-Wackos

I maintain 3 Honda V6s with like 600,000 happy miles on 0w20 or 5w20.

Long story short, I value wear protection over a negligible improvement in economy that a 20 grade *may* provide.

 

[Nick814]

Its just PP. not PPPPPP

 

[john_pifer]

Its just PP. not PPPPPP

BITOG used to have an acronym system because we were always comparing so many different oils (back before you joined, newb

Pennzoil Platinum Pure Plus was PPPP. “Pure Plus” was Pennzoil’s designation for the GTL-derived basestock (which it still uses).

Back then, Pennzoil Ultra was PU, then when they quit that formulation and went to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, that was PUP.

This was also in the days when a lot of guys here also used the Pennzoil conventional, which was “PYB” (Pennzoil yellow bottle).

So, even though the new Pennzoil Platinum no longer has the “pure plus” moniker on the bottle, I still like using “PPPP”, I suppose, out of nostalgia.

 

[Thermo1223]

Long story short, I value wear protection over a negligible improvement in economy that a 20 grade *may* provide.

I also like to point out that the reverse works as well. 30 is going to shear to a 20 anyway.

 

[john_pifer]

I also like to point out that the reverse works as well. 30 is going to shear to a 20 anyway.

Yep. And the 30 grade I’m using (PPPP 5W-30) is a “30 lite” anyway, at around 9.7-9.8 cP.

But starting off with a 20, it’s definitely gonna end up down in the 7’s or 8’s.

And then there’s the fact that the Odyssey is GDI, and, even though it’s not known as a diluter, and the wife’s commute is over 60 miles of interstate highway 5 days a week, I still just like the extra cushion of the 30 grade. Especially when I’m redlining it through a couple of gears or hustling it down some local backroads.

No shade on those who run 20, though. To each, his own.

 

[Urshurak776]

Long story short, I value wear protection over a negligible improvement in economy that a 20 grade *may* provide.

Maybe I missed it, but is there proof a 30 grade protects better than a 20 grade, all else being equal?

 

[john_pifer]

Maybe I missed it, but is there proof a 30 grade protects better than a 20 grade, all else being equal?

You are aware how lubrication works, right?

The oil’s viscosity is the first and main guard against wear.

 

[Urshurak776]

You are aware how lubrication works, right?

The oil’s viscosity is the first and main guard against wear.

Very much so. I'm an engineer with a large HVAC Company and retired military dealing with engine room equipment daily.

There is no guarantee a 30 weight will protect your vehicles any better than a 20 weight in a properly functioning engine. Now, if you have issues, such as excess fuel dilution, etc. then sure, a 30 weight may help if you leave it in for an extended drain cycle. Just saying 30 is better than 20 is incorrect though. My .02 ( I use both BTW.)

 

[john_pifer]

Very much so. I'm an engineer with a large HVAC Company and retired military dealing with engine room equipment daily.

There is no guarantee a 30 weight will protect your vehicles any better than a 20 weight in a properly functioning engine. Now, if you have issues, such as excess fuel dilution, etc. then sure, a 30 weight may help if you leave it in for an extended drain cycle. Just saying 30 is better than 20 is incorrect though. My .02 ( I use both BTW.)

With all due respect, I think you made my point (RE: fuel dilution, etc).

This is why OEMs suggest a higher viscosity engine oil when towing, driving at higher speeds, severe service, etc.

As a cushion, as extra protection when hard-use circumstances could possibly lead to heat/pressures which could overwhelm the ability of a low-viscosity oil (which, incidentally, was developed only with the goal of improving economy and certainly not to improve lubrication or protection in any way) to properly lubricate.

 

[kschachn]

Maybe I missed it, but is there proof a 30 grade protects better than a 20 grade, all else being equal?

No there isn’t. In fact mechanical shear of the VM is quite rare and is highly engine dependent. We’ve seen very few confirmed incidences here. Most all the time we see viscosity deviations due to fuel dilution.

 

[kschachn]

There is no guarantee a 30 weight will protect your vehicles any better than a 20 weight in a properly functioning engine. Now, if you have issues, such as excess fuel dilution, etc. then sure, a 30 weight may help if you leave it in for an extended drain cycle. Just saying 30 is better than 20 is incorrect though. My .02 ( I use both BTW.)

Only if you deny the physics of how an oil film works. One can argue over the degree and how significant it is but it’s still guaranteed.

 

[Nesterenko]

Don't know how with his supposed credentials
@Urshurak776 can deny a higher grade oil's wear protection superiority.

 

[Patman]

Don't know how with his supposed credentials
@Urshurak776 can deny a higher grade oil's wear protection superiority.

IMO it really depends on the engine, the climate and the driving habits of the person though. If you’re not stressing the engine all that much then you really aren’t getting any benefit from a thicker oil than the manufacturer calls for. A good example would be if someone has 500,000 miles on their engine running a 5w20/0w20. In that scenario they obviously don’t need a thicker oil and the very slight fuel economy increase has saved them some money over those 500,000 miles.

As I have mentioned a few times, I drive my Civic very gently and my climate is neither super hot or super cold. So I’m confident that 0w20 will get the job done for me. In the case of the Corvette, I like to drive it hard from time to time and so the extra HTHS (3.5) of M1 ESP 5w30 should help it to last longer than if I ran the typical 5w30 with a 3.0-3.1 HTHS

 

[cryptolyme]

if they won't tell me the specs, i'm not buying the oil. stupid policy.

 

[Urshurak776]

Don't know how with his supposed credentials
@Urshurak776 can deny a higher grade oil's wear protection superiority.

Depends on the engine and the usage. Just saying “30 is better than 20 really isn’t correct.” If you don’t understand that, then not much I can do in the confines of this forum.

Also, questioning my military service kind of pisses me off. Keep going keyboard warrior.

 

[Urshurak776]

No there isn’t. In fact mechanical shear of the VM is quite rare and is highly engine dependent. We’ve seen very few confirmed incidences here. Most all the time we see viscosity deviations due to fuel dilution.

Thank you sir. We have some folks on here that don’t get that…..

 

[Nesterenko]

Depends on the engine and the usage. Just saying “30 is better than 20 really isn’t correct.” If you don’t understand that, then not much I can do in the confines of this forum.

Also, questioning my military service kind of pisses me off. Keep going keyboard warrior.

No one is questioning your military service. The fact that you were or are military doesn't automatically make you right, or don't you get that? So don't get ticked, you are not beyond reproach.Becoming irate doesn't make you right. Any keyboard warrior can boast credentials, which you did but it doesn't necessarily make it so. And yes, I'll almost always take a 30 grade over a 20.

 

[Nesterenko]

IMO it really depends on the engine, the climate and the driving habits of the person though. If you’re not stressing the engine all that much then you really aren’t getting any benefit from a thicker oil than the manufacturer calls for. A good example would be if someone has 500,000 miles on their engine running a 5w20/0w20. In that scenario they obviously don’t need a thicker oil and the very slight fuel economy increase has saved them some money over those 500,000 miles.

As I have mentioned a few times, I drive my Civic very gently and my climate is neither super hot or super cold. So I’m confident that 0w20 will get the job done for me. In the case of the Corvette, I like to drive it hard from time to time and so the extra HTHS (3.5) of M1 ESP 5w30 should help it to last longer than if I ran the typical 5w30 with a 3.0-3.1 HTHS

In southern Ontario it very very seldom gets cold enough. All in all I would bet if you were pressed to make a choice in your part of the country you would take a 30 all day. Chances are where you live it won't normally become cold enough for that 0w20 but it definitely will get hot enough for a 30.