Opinion on Havoline oil

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Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Actually, the good blower cams have little to no overlap and don't sound very nasty at all.
smile.gif


Honestly, I don't know how to approach that reply. Can you elaborate just bit more on that?
smile.gif

I do know that the camshaft is the heartbeat of an engine. When I was building engines and racing I would put a lot of thought into my camshaft selection. (Lift/Duration-Solid/Hydraulic)


When you are running an engine with a blower, you don't want the boost going out the exhaust valve, which happens when you have overlap (both valves open at the same time).

This means that LSA (lobe separation angle) is an important item, because the wider the LSA, the more duration that can be run whilst minimizing overlap.

A narrow LSA, lots of duration and subsequently, overlap, is what gives engines that "nasty" sound. The intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time, so some of the intake charge ends up being drawn in while the exhaust charge is still exiting the chamber. You lose a bit of compression, and get that nasty snappy lope. This promotes scavenging at higher RPM's (the exhaust charge exiting literally draws the intake charge into the chamber) and results in more power.

However, on a boosted engine, there's no benefit to the overlap. The intake charge is already pressurized. So a wide LSA, lots of duration and lift (within reason of course) to maximize cylinder fill, and you end up with an engine that certainly sounds aggressive, but likely milder than you'd expect it to.

There are a bunch of guys that leave the stock HO cam in their 5.0L's for the true "sleeper" approach. They do heads and intake, put on a blower, and leave the stock cam in (though they often use 1.7 ratio rockers for more lift). The engine sounds almost stock, but can make close to 500RWHP
grin.gif


The TFS #1 (which is a cam I ran) is a popular choice for an "off the shelf" camshaft for the 302 Windsor:

http://www.trickflow.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS-51403001&autoview=sku

221/225 duration, .499/.510 lift (I ran it with 1.7's, so my lift was .530/.542) and has IIRC, -2 degrees of overlap on a 112LSA (it has been a few years since I did the math, so that figure might be off).

My custom replacement was ~230/240 .549/.552 on a 113.8LSA and had negative overlap as well, as I had mentioned to the grinder that I may be putting an S-trim on the car.

Um, yeah.......that was it to a tee!
shocked.gif

I respect your knowledge very much. I bet you have built some very "mean" engines, huh?
19.gif

I can't say that my knowledge compared to yours in that vast. I learned all my building techniques from watching my dad, friends, and OTJT. (Hands On)
But, I can say I have built some "nice" engines that I am proud of.
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Actually, the good blower cams have little to no overlap and don't sound very nasty at all.
smile.gif


Honestly, I don't know how to approach that reply. Can you elaborate just bit more on that?
smile.gif

I do know that the camshaft is the heartbeat of an engine. When I was building engines and racing I would put a lot of thought into my camshaft selection. (Lift/Duration-Solid/Hydraulic)


When you are running an engine with a blower, you don't want the boost going out the exhaust valve, which happens when you have overlap (both valves open at the same time).

This means that LSA (lobe separation angle) is an important item, because the wider the LSA, the more duration that can be run whilst minimizing overlap.

A narrow LSA, lots of duration and subsequently, overlap, is what gives engines that "nasty" sound. The intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time, so some of the intake charge ends up being drawn in while the exhaust charge is still exiting the chamber. You lose a bit of compression, and get that nasty snappy lope. This promotes scavenging at higher RPM's (the exhaust charge exiting literally draws the intake charge into the chamber) and results in more power.

However, on a boosted engine, there's no benefit to the overlap. The intake charge is already pressurized. So a wide LSA, lots of duration and lift (within reason of course) to maximize cylinder fill, and you end up with an engine that certainly sounds aggressive, but likely milder than you'd expect it to.

There are a bunch of guys that leave the stock HO cam in their 5.0L's for the true "sleeper" approach. They do heads and intake, put on a blower, and leave the stock cam in (though they often use 1.7 ratio rockers for more lift). The engine sounds almost stock, but can make close to 500RWHP
grin.gif


The TFS #1 (which is a cam I ran) is a popular choice for an "off the shelf" camshaft for the 302 Windsor:

http://www.trickflow.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS-51403001&autoview=sku

221/225 duration, .499/.510 lift (I ran it with 1.7's, so my lift was .530/.542) and has IIRC, -2 degrees of overlap on a 112LSA (it has been a few years since I did the math, so that figure might be off).

My custom replacement was ~230/240 .549/.552 on a 113.8LSA and had negative overlap as well, as I had mentioned to the grinder that I may be putting an S-trim on the car.

Um, yeah.......that was it to a tee!
shocked.gif

I respect your knowledge very much. I bet you have built some very "mean" engines, huh?
19.gif

I can't say that my knowledge compared to yours in that vast. I learned all my building techniques from watching my dad, friends, and OTJT. (Hands On)
But, I can say I have built some "nice" engines that I am proud of.
thumbsup2.gif


I can't see drag race's sig. What year mustang has he got. If its an old pushrod Windsor he has one cam,if its a 4.6 2V he has 2 cams,if its a 4.6 3V he has 2 cams and if its a 4.6/5.0 4V he has 4 cams.
The days of having to choose either high rpm hp or bottom end tq are over. You can now have both with cam phasers and today's tech.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy

I can't see drag race's sig. What year mustang has he got. If its an old pushrod Windsor he has one cam,if its a 4.6 2V he has 2 cams,if its a 4.6 3V he has 2 cams and if its a 4.6/5.0 4V he has 4 cams.
The days of having to choose either high rpm hp or bottom end tq are over. You can now have both with cam phasers and today's tech.


He has an '87 GT, same as I used to own
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter

Um, yeah.......that was it to a tee!
shocked.gif

I respect your knowledge very much. I bet you have built some very "mean" engines, huh?
19.gif

I can't say that my knowledge compared to yours in that vast. I learned all my building techniques from watching my dad, friends, and OTJT. (Hands On)
But, I can say I have built some "nice" engines that I am proud of.
thumbsup2.gif



I've never personally built anything I would consider overly "mean". I've been involved with a number of 302 builds, 302 transplants and the freshening/maintenance of a whole pile of marine engines. I've also been involved in a number of SBC builds/build-ups with a friend of mine who's dad's a real GM nut.

Most of the ones I've done as well as helped with have been street builds for 5.0L Mustangs. Typically your heads/cam/intake install, as the stock bottom-ends on these engines are EXCELLENT and we always choose stock candidates, as they have forged pistons and rods (up to 1991). That was a mantra I picked up from a friend of mine who has had a pile of stock-bottomed builds that took abuse like nobody's business. He's not a fan of rebuilt 302's, they don't seem to hold up like the stock ones do. My experience with the stock ones mirrored his. They will take an incredible amount of punishment.

Now of course once you approach the 500RWHP threshold, you are pushing the limits of the stock block and that's a whole other ballgame. He (my buddy that I mentioned above) has an, IIRC, BOSS-blocked beast on his engine stand at the moment slated for install with T-Trim or YSI. THAT will be NUTS
grin.gif


The thing with me is that I'm an information addict/data sink. If a topic catches my interest, I research it extensively, learning as much as I can about it. I need to know the how and why, as that's what enables somebody to truly understand a subject. And that, along with experience, is the foundation for knowledge
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Clevy

I can't see drag race's sig. What year mustang has he got. If its an old pushrod Windsor he has one cam,if its a 4.6 2V he has 2 cams,if its a 4.6 3V he has 2 cams and if its a 4.6/5.0 4V he has 4 cams.
The days of having to choose either high rpm hp or bottom end tq are over. You can now have both with cam phasers and today's tech.


He has an '87 GT, same as I used to own
smile.gif



Nice cars. I love fox body mustangs.
I was considering bolting on a twin screw(cobra take off) m112 onto this 4v however compression is already 10-1 and I don't think I could put more than 5-6 pounds of boost to it before I'm maxed out because of fuel availability.
I've just rounded up an 88 fox,I've got the warmed over 5.0 that's in it and a 306 just waiting in the wings.
I'm going to spray them. Now that I've got nitrous figured out.
The 88 is still speed density but its got 24 pound injectors,stock intake is port matched as are the headers and its got a 3 tune chip which I found interesting.
I was always a chev guy but fords Windsor engines can make power on the cheap and parts are everywhere.
 
Originally Posted By: Kruse
Originally Posted By: Char Baby

Since Havoline went to the new Deposit Shield(DS), their price went way up and I don't see rebates any longer. Where as, when I started using Havoline, it was always a great dino oil and priced near the store brand oils...


While I can't give you the exact price, the last time I walked through the WM oil aisle, SuperTech was the lowest priced oil and the next highest was an almost tie between Mobil and Havoline. I've used Havoline in the past with no problems. I'd probably some Havoline this week....except TropArtic is now on sale locally.


Our 4 local W*M's haven't carried Havoline DS in over 2 years. It was a good price as I remember!
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter

Um, yeah.......that was it to a tee!
shocked.gif

I respect your knowledge very much. I bet you have built some very "mean" engines, huh?
19.gif

I can't say that my knowledge compared to yours in that vast. I learned all my building techniques from watching my dad, friends, and OTJT. (Hands On)
But, I can say I have built some "nice" engines that I am proud of.
thumbsup2.gif



I've never personally built anything I would consider overly "mean". I've been involved with a number of 302 builds, 302 transplants and the freshening/maintenance of a whole pile of marine engines. I've also been involved in a number of SBC builds/build-ups with a friend of mine who's dad's a real GM nut.

Most of the ones I've done as well as helped with have been street builds for 5.0L Mustangs. Typically your heads/cam/intake install, as the stock bottom-ends on these engines are EXCELLENT and we always choose stock candidates, as they have forged pistons and rods (up to 1991). That was a mantra I picked up from a friend of mine who has had a pile of stock-bottomed builds that took abuse like nobody's business. He's not a fan of rebuilt 302's, they don't seem to hold up like the stock ones do. My experience with the stock ones mirrored his. They will take an incredible amount of punishment.

Now of course once you approach the 500RWHP threshold, you are pushing the limits of the stock block and that's a whole other ballgame. He (my buddy that I mentioned above) has an, IIRC, BOSS-blocked beast on his engine stand at the moment slated for install with T-Trim or YSI. THAT will be NUTS
grin.gif


The thing with me is that I'm an information addict/data sink. If a topic catches my interest, I research it extensively, learning as much as I can about it. I need to know the how and why, as that's what enables somebody to truly understand a subject. And that, along with experience, is the foundation for knowledge
smile.gif


I had/have enough knowledge to know what components matched to build an engine to make the required hp and torque for the car/truck it was going in. I only built/rebuilt about 30 SBCs, a few Fords, and 1 or 2 Mopars.
My knowledge came to me buy doing a lot of hands on, and paying attention to other mechanics/techs/racers.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter

I had/have enough knowledge to know what components matched to build an engine to make the required hp and torque for the car/truck it was going in. I only built/rebuilt about 30 SBCs, a few Fords, and 1 or 2 Mopars.
My knowledge came to me buy doing a lot of hands on, and paying attention to other mechanics/techs/racers.
smile.gif



You guys and all your SBC's, LOL! I've wrenched on way more SBF's than I have SBC's, I'm probably the extreme exception here
grin.gif


Hands-on is definitely a fantastic way to learn, and how I started out too
thumbsup2.gif
 
Glad to hear this topic revisited. I've been using Havoline DS 10w30 in my Pacifica on 3-4k OCI. Recently, I've been thinking about switching. I've noticed the Flash Point and Viscosity Index are lower in DS compared to QS/Mobil/VWB/PYB. Doesn't tell the whole story, but does it tell you something? Tough to find a better price. I buy a 5 qt jug for $13 then a $7 MIR from Fleet Farm when on sale-often!
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: XtraRevsSurely
Glad to hear this topic revisited. I've been using Havoline DS 10w30 in my Pacifica on 3-4k OCI. Recently, I've been thinking about switching. I've noticed the Flash Point and Viscosity Index are lower in DS compared to QS/Mobil/VWB/PYB. Doesn't tell the whole story, but does it tell you something?

But, how does it compare (DS) in the other areas to the other listed oils?
confused2.gif

I would probably choose M5K.
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: XtraRevsSurely
Glad to hear this topic revisited. I've been using Havoline DS 10w30 in my Pacifica on 3-4k OCI. Recently, I've been thinking about switching. I've noticed the Flash Point and Viscosity Index are lower in DS compared to QS/Mobil/VWB/PYB. Doesn't tell the whole story, but does it tell you something?

But, how does it compare (DS) in the other areas to the other listed oils?
confused2.gif

I would probably choose M5K.
thumbsup2.gif



Funny thing, I bought M5K the other day while debating the change...kept receipt
 
Originally Posted By: XtraRevsSurely
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: XtraRevsSurely
Glad to hear this topic revisited. I've been using Havoline DS 10w30 in my Pacifica on 3-4k OCI. Recently, I've been thinking about switching. I've noticed the Flash Point and Viscosity Index are lower in DS compared to QS/Mobil/VWB/PYB. Doesn't tell the whole story, but does it tell you something?

But, how does it compare (DS) in the other areas to the other listed oils?
confused2.gif

I would probably choose M5K.
thumbsup2.gif



Funny thing, I bought M5K the other day while debating the change...kept receipt

MS5K is a very good conventional; I just completed a 10K OCI with it and it performed as well as the mighty Pennzoil Ultra I previously ran in my FX4.
 
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: XtraRevsSurely
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: XtraRevsSurely
Glad to hear this topic revisited. I've been using Havoline DS 10w30 in my Pacifica on 3-4k OCI. Recently, I've been thinking about switching. I've noticed the Flash Point and Viscosity Index are lower in DS compared to QS/Mobil/VWB/PYB. Doesn't tell the whole story, but does it tell you something?

But, how does it compare (DS) in the other areas to the other listed oils?
confused2.gif

I would probably choose M5K.
thumbsup2.gif



Funny thing, I bought M5K the other day while debating the change...kept receipt

MS5K is a very good conventional; I just completed a 10K OCI with it and it performed as well as the mighty Pennzoil Ultra I previously ran in my FX4.

My dad visited me yesterday morning and surprised me with a Havoline 5W30 oil change, along with a MC FL-400S filter. I thought that was very nice of him.
thumbsup2.gif

I was actually waiting on my PP rebate to use on some PYB 5W30.
I am approaching 3K miles on my PP OCI........decisions decisions!
laugh.gif

But, I do see MS5K in my future. Your UOA's are the selling point.
 
These days isn't the Havoline label just a marketing gambit by Chevron? Way back when Texaco was independent, and even before Texaco bought Havoline, it used to be thought of as something better than average. That was a long time ago. These days even average oil is excellent, and Havoline is used by Chevron in the regions where they want to market that label instead of the Chevron label, or maybe put both out there and try for more market share.
 
Originally Posted By: Ken2
These days isn't the Havoline label just a marketing gambit by Chevron? Way back when Texaco was independent, and even before Texaco bought Havoline, it used to be thought of as something better than average. That was a long time ago. These days even average oil is excellent, and Havoline is used by Chevron in the regions where they want to market that label instead of the Chevron label, or maybe put both out there and try for more market share.

I sent an e-mail to Chevron this morning asking Q?'s about their Havoline oil. I hope to get a reply back soon.
thumbsup2.gif
 
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