OK to use same oil weight in all my small engines

[hikeril]

I'm curious if it would be OK to use the same engine oil brand/weight for all my small engines.

B&S Generator - recommends 5w-30 synthetic (I use 5w-30 Pennzoil platinum)

Honda GC160 Pressure Washer - recommends SAE30 or 10w-30 (I use YB 10w-30)

Toro TXP 159cc - recommends SAE 30 or 10W-30 (I use YB SAE 30 currently) Just bought the mower this past spring.

2009 Toyota Camry - I use 5W-30 Pennzoil Platinum purchasing by the 5 quart bottle. I drive about 4000 miles per month changing the oil about every 6 weeks so the oil doesn't sit around for a long period of time. This I why I would like to see if I could you same oil to just make it easier.

 

[GutsyGecko]

The 5w-30 plat will work fine.

 

[Brian Barnhart]

When I last looked at several of the engine manufacturer’s oils that they market under their own names, I found three characteristics in common with all of them. I’m not sure I have seen B&S’s new synthetic small engine oil, but these are the three things I saw in common among those I looked at:
1) None were SN or SM. They were all SJ or SL oils.
2) No starburst.
3) All were some form of 30Wt. (xW30, or SAE30).

So I use an oil that essentially meets those criteria, in my case, Castrol 0W30. Based on what I observed, I suspect a higher HTHS oil is more appropriate in those applications, especially the air cooled engines. I’ve been using Castrol’s 0W30 for many years in several small engines with no problems of any kind.

 

[LotI]

If using synthetic you should be fine. I think the main thing the OPE manufacturers are worried about is volatility at higher operating temps.

I use 5w-30 in my inverter generator just for easier starting. Even at 50F yesterday my generator was sluggish w/10w so I changed it before winter. As soon as my supply of PU and Edge 10w-30 are gone I'll go to 5w year round in the mower.

 

[dparm]

I think any synthetic 5w30 would be fine for all of those applications.

For the Camry, are you racking up lots of highway miles? If so, I'd just run a conventional or semi-syn 5w30. The benefits of synthetic are diminished if the car is just cruising at 65mph all the time.

 

[CharBaby]

Well, IDK if it's optimal to use 5W30 in everything but, I do!
I use it in all of the vehicles listed in my signature even though the Firebird requires 10W30 and the Mazda3 requires 5W20

And my Troy Built lawn mower w/Honda engine calls for 10W30 also. And my Craftsman snowblower I believe is OK at 5W30. Everything(all cars/OPE) seems to run perfectly fine.

 

[Trav]

I use Mobil 1 0w40 in everything. Lawn mower, snowblower, generator, power washer, you name it. No problems.

 

[fxrider]

I hoard oil so I have a kinds of oils. my Briggs 5HP I/C motor loves 20w50 . my Tecumseh 5.5HP loves 5w30.

 

[bubbatime]

Synthetic 5W30 would work excellent in everything you have, plus you only have to stock one oil, which helps logistically.

6000 mile changes in that Toyota is way excessive (assuming mostly highway mileage) 10K mile changes would be fine, as long as you check the oil and make sure it is topped off.

 

[GaleHawkins]

We use Rotella 5W-40 in all engines. I like at least 40 for air cooled engines. We do not blow snow however.

 

[lars11]

Sure you can use the same in all engines including the car, choose for the car first and if that turns out to be 5w40 or 5w30, then be done with it and buy in pails.
..and if that's non severe driving, why are you changing at 4k? That would be 8k or 10k, maybe 12k, in any book.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Being labeled "synthetic" alone does not make an oil appropriate for use in ODPE. Recall "synthetic" is but an MARKETING TERM in ILSAC lubes meaning majority premium processed, crude derived lubricant.
I would use an ACEA A3B4 as a minimum if you cant locate a good HD 10w30. A true synthetic would not be typically warranted or desirable.

 

[hikeril]

Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Synthetic 5W30 would work excellent in everything you have, plus you only have to stock one oil, which helps logistically.

6000 mile changes in that Toyota is way excessive (assuming mostly highway mileage) 10K mile changes would be fine, as long as you check the oil and make sure it is topped off.


I've been going about every 7500 miles. I have had analysis on two samples from blackstone and they recommend going to 8500 and send in another sample. I guess I will do it based on comments regarding my questions.

 

[hikeril]

Originally Posted By: lars11
Sure you can use the same in all engines including the car, choose for the car first and if that turns out to be 5w40 or 5w30, then be done with it and buy in pails.
..and if that's non severe driving, why are you changing at 4k? That would be 8k or 10k, maybe 12k, in any book.


I will extend to 8500 miles sending a sample to blackstone for an analysis. I have 130,000 miles on a 2009 Camry XLE V6, so far not burning oil.

 

[bubbatime]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Being labeled "synthetic" alone does not make an oil appropriate for use in ODPE. Recall "synthetic" is but an MARKETING TERM in ILSAC lubes meaning majority premium processed, crude derived lubricant.
I would use an ACEA A3B4 as a minimum if you cant locate a good HD 10w30. A true synthetic would not be typically warranted or desirable.


The Toro mower and Honda pressure washer are going to see less than 50 hours a year in IL, and possibly less than 25 hours a year. ANY SN synthetic 5W30 will provide ample protection. With annual oil/air filter changes, those engines will outlast the equipment they are on 3 fold. Since the generator COULD see a heavy duty cycle, I am inclined to think that a heavier duty oil could be slightly more appropriate. But Pennzoil Plat 5W30 that the op has would be fine if he only wants to stock one oil.

OP, a high mileage 5W30 such as Mobil 1 High Mileage would be a good pick too.

 

[hikeril]

Thanks for ALL of the input. My life just got easier.

 

[tig1]

I use M1 10-30 in my gen, power washer, and Craftsman riding mower.