Originally Posted By: serious_black
That's petty much what I was thinking when I chose the 10w60. Thanks for the info. I now have to digest it. I can get a 25w50 racing oil (Statoil raceway HP 25W50). This has no VI improvers and would probably be fine if I only rode in the summer. They don't recommend it for road use. That won't shear in a hurry.
Really timely (from the point of discussion) Used Oil Analysis just turned up here, on Gulf Western "fully synthetic" 10W60 in a ktm 690.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...10w#Post3928703
Aside from being my least favourite oil brand in Australia, here's what I observed.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
I have seen absolutely nothing that impresses me about Gulf Western.
But this one takes the cake.
KV100 is listed on the PDS as >21.9...that's thick.
Your used KV100 is 14.3
KV40 is listed as 130
Yours is 91.1 used.
VI is listed as >170.
Yours is 163...to quote a proponent "at least it maintained it's viscosity index"
Re their PDS
http://www.gulfwestern.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/Gulf-1-10W-60-SN-1-2014.pdf
TBN is pretty woeful to begine with.
Flash point and density would indicate an oil that's pushed to a grade through VII addition.
P would indicate that it's an additive pack and treat rate probably that would meet an ILSAC standard.
It's "formulated with PAO"...
Ditch the Gulf Western...Mobil 4t, V-Twin depending on how thick you want to go.
The wear metals are all OK, but the oil was cut to shreds.
More shear stable polymers, and he could run a 40 and have had similar results.
Chopped up polymers are also sludge precursors.