Oil for modified EcoBoost

[kschachn]

Most of the approvals ESP has are long-drain approvals. One even has it in the name.

 

[Impatient]

Most of the approvals ESP has are long-drain approvals. One even has it in the name.

Yes, but, fuel dilution probably shortens a safe interval. Maybe I didn’t emphasize that I have considerable FD enough in previous post.

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

I’m well aware of the transmission being a weak link. To help that out, I change out the fluid (~ 5.5 quarts) at each oil change. So far, so good.

Now, back to those oil recommendations…

Upgrade your ATF to a TES-668 approved one (Castrol, Delvac, etc) or to HPL ATF Blue CC. Not only will you not have to change it as often, but these ATFs have superior oxidation resistance and won't break down as easy.

Motor oil: Any API SP licensed 5W-40 will do (Mobil 1 FS, Quaker State Euro, or Castrol), or HPL SuperCar 5W-40.

With HPL you get more bang for your buck in the long run. With everything else you have a lower cost upfront.

 

[Foxtrot08]

I run Redline Euro 5w30 in my tuned Raptor Ecoboost, with oil analysis. Works out pretty well. I’m running 12k-15k oil drain intervals.

HPL’s formulations will be very comparable in all major aspects.

I run redline because… it doesn’t cost me anything. So I’m biased. (Shill notice.)

I don’t think you can go wrong with Redline / HPL / any major full synthetic brand really. Pick your poison and price point.

 

[Foxtrot08]

Upgrade your ATF to a TES-668 approved one (Castrol, Delvac, etc) or to HPL ATF Blue CC. Not only will you not have to change it as often, but these ATFs have superior oxidation resistance and won't break down as easy.

Motor oil: Any API SP licensed 5W-40 will do (Mobil 1 FS, Quaker State Euro, or Castrol), or HPL SuperCar 5W-40.

With HPL you get more bang for your buck in the long run. With everything else you have a lower cost upfront.

TES 668 is just a group 3.

There are several other options that are Pao/Ester based that are probably better over all protection wise.

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

TES 668 is just a group 3

Delvac is GTL. Group III has good additive response, and, to quote you when you quoted aomeone else that said the following about TES-668: "That stuff is indesteuctible."

I'd be interested to learn what the better PAO/Ester options are. Especially since Esters tend to change the friction modification characterstics of the additive package. Usually, a PAO/AN is preferred for expensive/high performing ATF.

 

[Foxtrot08]

Delvac is GTL. Group III has good additive response, and, to quote you when you quoted aomeone else that said the following about TES-668: "That stuff is indesteuctible."

I'd be interested to learn what the better PAO/Ester options are. Especially since Esters tend to change the friction modification characterstics of the additive package. Usually, a PAO/AN is preferred for expensive/high performing ATF.

295 is even better. But yes, 668 in a transmission fluid is very good. Essentially indestructible in the life span of a transmission. As, other things go first.

295 clones are often either PAO or PAO blends with other things, esters or AN. I believe the redline D series is an ester blend.

GTL is a group III, or a 3+ if you want to call it that. Where as 295 was PAO based.

 

[TiGeo]

Looking for input on which oil to start using:

2016 Ford Taurus SHO w/ the 3.5L TGDI V-6 EcoBoost engine.

I have just finished modifying the engine to the point where I feel it is still going to my a reliable daily driver. This includes the following -

Engine computer tune
Replacement aftermarket turbos
larger intercooler
high pressure fuel pump
true dual set-up CAI
colder heat range spark plugs
custom metal hot pipes
high flow cats & exhaust

I thought I would be running the HPL No VII PCMO 5w-30, but am committed to 4,000 mile OCI‘s, and still have a hard time swallowing $100 for each change. However, if it appears that to be my best choice, that is absolutely what I’ll go with. My only other caveat is I’m not really a fan of the Euro/SAPS oils, simply because I don’t want to harm the cats at all. And though I would certainly like to stick with a 5w-30, if the consensus is to go with something else, I’m open. Finally, I know the oil needs to have a very high HTHS, especially with the new larger turbos.

Full SAPS oils won't harm your cats, a whole lot of Euro autos on the road past/present using full SAPS xW40 oils without cat issues. I'd run that HPL you listed and just do 5K changes with it if it concerns you. Are you tracking/drag/etc. this or just fun on the public road? Folks often think that their daily use of even modded/tuned cars is much more severe than it really is. Any Euro 30 grade would also work just fine you get at the store. What about the HPL Supercar 5W40?

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

I believe the redline D series is an ester blend.

It used to be a PAO+POE blend. In practice, it had a cold flow about as good, if not worse, than your averge Group IIi ATF. The real deal breaker, at least for me, were the firm shifts. Now, if you like firm shifts, and you have a transmission than can perform firm shifts without issue, then by all means. But if you have a transmission designed mostly by bean counters and their boss's hopes and dreams of making huge profits, then Red Line ATF might not be a great choice.

Of course, since I tried it, Red Line may have switched to a newer DI package. Do you know if they're still using Lubrizol?

 

[facility1]

Royal Purple HPS, 5w-30 maybe a good oil for your application,look for deals ,they may exist

 

[Foxtrot08]

It used to be a PAO+POE blend. In practice, it had a cold flow about as good, if not worse, than your averge Group IIi ATF. The real deal breaker, at least for me, were the firm shifts. Now, if you like firm shifts, and you have a transmission than can perform firm shifts without issue, then by all means. But if you have a transmission designed mostly by bean counters and their boss's hopes and dreams of making huge profits, then Red Line ATF might not be a great choice.

Of course, since I tried it, Red Line may have switched to a newer DI package. Do you know if they're still using Lubrizol?

I’ll ask about the DI package in a few weeks when I see the redline people. My P66 SAM doesn’t know anything about that.

In a previous truck, I had good luck with D6 as a replacement for Mercon SP. But that truck was nothing but problematic anyways. (2008 6.4L ford… should say enough.)

I am going to put their fluid into my mustang. But it’s strictly a summer car / track car. And I don’t think there’s really any big way to improve on the ULV transmission fluids right now. At least, not that I can think of.

 

[Nesterenko]

The real deal breaker, at least for me, were the firm shifts. Now, if you like firm shifts...

I I thought most of us here like firm shifts as long as they're not hard abrupt shifts. What's not to like?