syzygy
quote:
My question is What should I be doing to avoid the problem? Switch to a high quality syn like Mobil 1? Add a bypass filter? Someone suggested adding kerosene to oil to clean internal parts. Any suggestions?
As pointed out, do not use anything that would have to be taken out in just mins after putting it in as it will do more damage than you can imagine.
When using a harsh solvent such as kerosene or any that product that instructs you to run for only 10 or 15mins then drain, you do several things.
- breaks big chunks off at a time that will plug up oil channels and oil pickup screens
- will have extreme negative effects on your seals causing them to dry out and crack creating leaks
I'd suggest using something like the auto rx or schaeffers 131 engine purge to gently wash out the engine and help condition the valvestem seals. As a sludged engine gets clean, it washes off the sludge buildup around the stem seals which by that time have been exposed to extreme heat with no lubrication and will start to leak as it no longer is protected by the layer of sludge acting like a seal.
The other thing with toyotas is due to the way it treats oil, I strongly recommend that if you are going beyound 3,000 miles that you do oil analysis to establish how well your choice of oil is holding up, then extend from there.
One of the things in my investigation that I found was anyone doing 3k drains, experienced no sludge effects as the oil was replaced before it could do any damage. The only ones that sludged were ones following the 5-7500 mile recommended drain intervals.
With the newer SL grade oils, This sludge issue should become less of a problem if maintained between 3-5,000 miles but as mentioned before, do a couple of analysis as each persons situation is different in driving habits,engine condition, outside enviormental conditions and so on.
[ June 21, 2002, 10:18 AM: Message edited by: BOBISTHEOILGUY ]