I have some OCD when tightening drain plugs. I use a torque wrench, and it always seems like it "clicks" way too soon (I'm sure it's accurate, and it's purely my OCD thinking it clicked too soon), so I go back with a ratchet and make sure it's snug.
I tighten the plug down by hand, without the wrench. Once I get it as tight as I can using just my fingers, I then throw the wrench on it and give it one 360 turn.
I use a beam type torque wrench because I have the spec, and have the wrench, so why not? I usually snug it pretty well with my normal ratchet and then use the torque wrench to finish it.
I use them. The drain plugs on the 4.6 only take about 10-12ft-lbs so it keeps me from over tightening. My Volvo has a very easily stripped aluminum pan so torque wrench is a must for the filter and drain plug.
I use Parker Stat-O-Seal washers on plugs that don't come with their own bonded rubber seal. Therefore, I can just get away with tightening until the both the plug feels tight enough and the rubber seal looks sufficiently compressed. That's generally much lower than the torque spec for the joint.
On aluminum pans, I do still use a torque wrench just to make sure I don't exceed the spec. For aluminum pans with M18 plugs--a size in which Parker does not make a Stat-O-Seal--I still use crush washers and a torque wrench.
Originally Posted By: rg200amp
I don't use a tq wrench.
I tighten the plug down by hand, without the wrench. Once I get it as tight as I can using just my fingers, I then throw the wrench on it and give it one 360 turn.
You need it torque *less* than a spark plug. It is not holding any parts together. It needs to be tight enough so that the oil will not leak and tight enough so that it will not lose on itself by engine vibration. This not your suspension bot or brake caliper bolt!