Oil as undercoating to slow down rust

[denwood]

C

I am looking at a few videos and reviews the CRC stuff and it seems very good. I'll try to find the equivalent here.

CRC is basically wax, with a few solvents. It's flammable during application and as far as I can tell, has zero actual corrosion inhibitors...it's a water displacer. Pretty much the same as Cosmoline. Noxudol 300/700 are wax based, are not flammable (no VOC) and do actually contain additives to react with rust. They are also under $30/quart if you're spraying with a cavity gun...

 

[BigShug681]

Anyone know of anyplace around the STL area that do this sort of work? I’m tired of my vehicles slowly accumulating surface rust and then it eventually becoming more every winter

 

[doublebase]

I’ve done Fluid Film for years now, problem is you really need to apply it twice a year. And best advice - drive on a dirt road right after for a mile or so, the dirt will set in on the fluid film and add some thickness to it that will add a little stronger barrier. Another thing - use something stronger for your higher exposure areas on the frame, because the fluid film will wash away.

I’m going to try the Cosmoline this year...might buy just a few cans. I do have some fluid film left over, might apply that into some crevices on the frame and doors that are a little harder to reach and need to seep.

There are also plenty of homemade concoctions out there you can find online, ranging from people melting toilet bowl wax rings and mixing it with flaxseed oil and a thinner....to, bar chain oil mixed with a solvent...to, used oil...candle wax and transmission fluid...anti-seize/PB Blaster and white lithium grease (I actually like white lithium grease spray, it sticks, it’s cheap, it stays pliable, it prevents rusts - Ive used it by itself and it’s pretty decent). I’ve used white lithium grease paste and painted it onto the high traffic areas underneath, along with fluid film. Works good, can still see it sticking in the spring.

But all of this ^^^ is a part time job. Nothing is a set it and forget solution. There is no such thing. Not with rust prevention, rust doesn’t rest, it’s working while you are sleeping...and it never EVER STOPS. It just depends how long you’re willing to fight....I think I just discovered a plot for a new Netflix movie.

 

[RedSpider]

Anything oily enough to be sprayed on is usually gone in a few months in my experience. Melted toilet bowl rings mixed with a couple ounces of bar & chain oil works better for me than anything else I have ever tried. Honestly you dont really even need to add the oil if you dont have any on hand, it just helps thin it out a bit and makes it easier to apply. Keep the melted wax hot enough and use an old paint brush to apply it and that beeswax isnt going anywhere. I painted the whole underside of my old Nissan 240sx with it and other than the areas directly over the exhaust, most of the wax was still there multiple years later, even in the wheel wells. I got more life out of that old car than I ever would have if I hadnt treated it, I drove that car in Ohio winters pushing two decades and almost 400k miles, that is unheard of, they were known rust buckets. Anything sprayed on, or various greases and oils I ever applied, just never seem to stick around long, and once I tried the toilet bowl rings, I hardly ever had to touch it up.

 

[denwood]

Mike Sanders Grease is a similar product requiring heating to 80C (very hot) to spray it and once cool (literally seconds) it is done…there is no drying time. It does last a long time under heavy wash conditions…like years. It also does creep a bit under summer hot sun conditions even a few years after application. I just did my daughters CRV with it as I have a 5 gallon pail, and the vehicle is old..2003. Also used it on an A3 TDI and 1990 Westfalia.

I stopped using the Mike Sanders Grease for our higher value cars because the Noxudol 300/700 is much,much easier to spray (but does take 3-4 days to “dry”). I also figure that for 3-4 days, the Noxudol 700 is creeping quite aggressively in seams etc. It never hardens fully, regardless.

The real difference though is the active corrosion package in Nox 300/700z. No home brew, (or 99.9% of other products) takes things up that extra notch with respect to chemistry. If I’m going to spend $200 in materials and 8 hours of labour, I want the make sure the product is not just displacing water, but actively stopping rust.

 

[Donald]

A guy with a youtube channel called mustie1 uses a mix of melted toilet bowl wax rings and bar and chain oil to treat the under side of his vehicles. He's shown how it holds up and it seems to last pretty well for several years in New Hampshire winters.

He heats up the oil/wax mix and sprays it on with a fluid film gun.

If in New Hampshire he should just go to NH Coatings.

 

[RobbyDawg]

Anything oily enough to be sprayed on is usually gone in a few months in my experience. Melted toilet bowl rings mixed with a couple ounces of bar & chain oil works better for me than anything else I have ever tried. Honestly you dont really even need to add the oil if you dont have any on hand, it just helps thin it out a bit and makes it easier to apply. Keep the melted wax hot enough and use an old paint brush to apply it and that beeswax isnt going anywhere. I painted the whole underside of my old Nissan 240sx with it and other than the areas directly over the exhaust, most of the wax was still there multiple years later, even in the wheel wells. I got more life out of that old car than I ever would have if I hadnt treated it, I drove that car in Ohio winters pushing two decades and almost 400k miles, that is unheard of, they were known rust buckets. Anything sprayed on, or various greases and oils I ever applied, just never seem to stick around long, and once I tried the toilet bowl rings, I hardly ever had to touch it up.

I like it! Wax rings are dirt cheap…gonna try this for my truck frame. Will continue to use bar and chain for harder to reach areas on the underside, and KL73 (Krown) inside body panels.

 

[gabisz]

Hi. I am new here..and also a rookie. I have a 2010 f150. I received it used and rusty. I cleaned up the undercarriage and used a thin coat Lubriplate chain oil. What do you think? I don't think I want to paint the thing, just reapply this chain oil once a year.

 

[ripcord]

Hi. I am new here..and also a rookie. I have a 2010 f150. I received it used and rusty. I cleaned up the undercarriage and used a thin coat Lubriplate chain oil. What do you think? I don't think I want to paint the thing, just reapply this chain oil once a year.

It will certainly help. One member did a test and found that Vaseline worked better than the common anti rust products like Fluidfilm and the like.

 

[gabisz]

Thank you so much for your kind reply. This lubriplate is all I had access to for now. Thanks again.

 

[Donald]

Motor oil will not last long and will pollute the ground as it's washed off. Worse if used motor oil. Use a product designed for rust proofing. The better products "creep" to cover areas you cannot access or when a rock scratches some off.

 

[Donald]

I’ve done Fluid Film for years now, problem is you really need to apply it twice a year. And best advice - drive on a dirt road right after for a mile or so, the dirt will set in on the fluid film and add some thickness to it that will add a little stronger barrier. Another thing - use something stronger for your higher exposure areas on the frame, because the fluid film will wash away.

I’m going to try the Cosmoline this year...might buy just a few cans. I do have some fluid film left over, might apply that into some crevices on the frame and doors that are a little harder to reach and need to seep.

There are also plenty of homemade concoctions out there you can find online, ranging from people melting toilet bowl wax rings and mixing it with flaxseed oil and a thinner....to, bar chain oil mixed with a solvent...to, used oil...candle wax and transmission fluid...anti-seize/PB Blaster and white lithium grease (I actually like white lithium grease spray, it sticks, it’s cheap, it stays pliable, it prevents rusts - Ive used it by itself and it’s pretty decent). I’ve used white lithium grease paste and painted it onto the high traffic areas underneath, along with fluid film. Works good, can still see it sticking in the spring.

But all of this ^^^ is a part time job. Nothing is a set it and forget solution. There is no such thing. Not with rust prevention, rust doesn’t rest, it’s working while you are sleeping...and it never EVER STOPS. It just depends how long you’re willing to fight....I think I just discovered a plot for a new Netflix movie.

Try NH Coatings. It will last longer than Fluid Film. And there are a few flavors of NH Coatings. One where you brush it on to areas that get a lot of road spray.

 

[doublebase]

Try NH Coatings. It will last longer than Fluid Film. And there are a few flavors of NH Coatings. One where you brush it on to areas that get a lot of road spray.

I think you’re right, I used it last season (spray cans) and I believe it was their marine formula…seemed to stay there when I rechecked it in the spring. But I ended up going back to the Fluid Film this past winter - for cost savings mostly as I had some laying around - and yes, there wasn’t as much stuck on the frame as the NH Oil Undercoating from the previous year.

 

[doublebase]

It will certainly help. One member did a test and found that Vaseline worked better than the common anti rust products like Fluidfilm and the like.

Vaseline? Never thought of that. I wonder how much one would need to cover an entire frame and undercarriage of a vehicle? Apparently Walgreens sells an off brand for $1.50 for 3.5 ounces…less expensive than the $4-$5 bucks for actual name brand Vaseline.

 

[KrisZ]

Vaseline? Never thought of that. I wonder how much one would need to cover an entire frame and undercarriage of a vehicle? Apparently Walgreens sells an off brand for $1.50 for 3.5 ounces…less expensive than the $4-$5 bucks for actual name brand Vaseline.

For a job like this you need to buy bulk, not the home use stuff.

$40 for a gallon doesn’t seem too bad and this is the first bulk hit on Amazon, I’m sure a better price can be found.

https://a.co/d/7Wk4aPH

 

[bobdoo]

Motorcycle chain oil. Spreads wet when sprayed, then quickly gets very sticky, and is water resistant.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

Do a search on here for undercoating, a lot of previous posts.

Another option is Cosmoline / I like RP342
It's a waxy liquid that will NOT wash off.

"I'd like to avoid anything rubbery that can trap moisture if cut/hit by rocks".
Cosmoline is NOT like this.

Fluid Film - enclosed areas / doors, hood, tailgate, trunk
Cosmoline - high wash areas

Edit: One thing to be aware of is, an oil may have an effect on 'rubber' components, causing them to soften.
Also, any undercoating oil you use, make sure it will not affect electrical connections.
It's best to use a name brand product, and read the instructions.

Krown is an option like fluid film. They guarantee against rust for the life of the vehicle if you have the treatment done annually. I think when I looked it was like $149 to $179 each time, based on vehicle size. I suppose over a 10-year period in the salt belt, that $1800 of rustproofing is less than the cost of bodywork to fix rust…

Pricing

 

[billt460]

How about hot spraying molten paraffin? (Candle wax). The stuff melts at a low temperature, and heating the spray bottle in a double boiler would keep it liquid long enough for the application. Amazon has a ton of stuff candle makers use. A lot of it isn't that expensive.

If you applied it on a cool day, it would assure a fast drying time. You could even build up several coats where needed. Just keep it away from exhaust components.

 

[PontiacHO]

POR 15.

 

[RedSpider]

Beeswax (toilet rings) mixed with chainsaw chain oil works very well. I usually melt the beeswax rings in a small metal pan, then once they melt add in some chain oil and mix it up. Then use a paintbrush to apply it. I tried spraying it but if you dont work really, really fast it clogs up quickly.

I have also just used beesway by itself.

I did this on my Nissan I used to have and it stopped the rust dead in its tracks. Currently have it on my Sequoia. Lasts a long time. Reapply once a year or so. No smell, no drips, cheap, easy to reapply when necessary.