no cotter pin on new ball joint
- Thread starter jdmstr22
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I've seen that happen on a few applications myself. Does it use a nylock nut to secure the ball joint? The ball joints without cotter pin holes that I've used always had nylock nuts with the ball joints.
Some of those ball joints use a friction nut instead of a castle nut with a cotter pin.
Was the nut hard to turn? If it was, then you're fine.
Was the nut hard to turn? If it was, then you're fine.
Originally Posted By: jdmstr22
put some new Raybestos pro lower ball joints in today. The stock joint had a cotter pin new one does not have a hole to put a pin through Should i do without?
Sounds like a great email to send to Raybestos .. and let us know their reply.
put some new Raybestos pro lower ball joints in today. The stock joint had a cotter pin new one does not have a hole to put a pin through Should i do without?
Sounds like a great email to send to Raybestos .. and let us know their reply.
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
Should be nylon insert nut,or a crimped nut....in effect a locking nut.The imports have used those since before the Beetle days.
Agreed. I've put many of them in and they'll always have a friction or nylock nut. Like NHGUY said, they've been OE on many applications, so even if your OE app was a castle nut and pin, I wouldn't think twice about running this setup.
Should be nylon insert nut,or a crimped nut....in effect a locking nut.The imports have used those since before the Beetle days.
Agreed. I've put many of them in and they'll always have a friction or nylock nut. Like NHGUY said, they've been OE on many applications, so even if your OE app was a castle nut and pin, I wouldn't think twice about running this setup.
The only thing about nylocks is that you have to exert pressure on the joint to jam it to tighten the nylock. Keep the old castle nut, use it to pull the taper up. back it of quickly and run the nylock on.
When you see the square indentations on the sides of the nut like
this one, that's an indication of it being a locking type nut.
this one, that's an indication of it being a locking type nut.
Originally Posted By: Kool1
I've seen that happen on a few applications myself. Does it use a nylock nut to secure the ball joint? The ball joints without cotter pin holes that I've used always had nylock nuts with the ball joints.
yeah, they have nylock nuts but their kind of small where the stock bolt is more of a washer castle nut combo. I reused the stock bolt minus the cotter pin.
should i put some red thread locker on atleast?
I've seen that happen on a few applications myself. Does it use a nylock nut to secure the ball joint? The ball joints without cotter pin holes that I've used always had nylock nuts with the ball joints.
yeah, they have nylock nuts but their kind of small where the stock bolt is more of a washer castle nut combo. I reused the stock bolt minus the cotter pin.
should i put some red thread locker on atleast?
The ball joints I've worked on always had a tight fit into the steering knuckle. I've never seen a ball joint come out by removing the nut and not having to exert extreme force on the joint. A little threadlocker won't hurt anything.
Originally Posted By: jdmstr22
Originally Posted By: Kool1
I've seen that happen on a few applications myself. Does it use a nylock nut to secure the ball joint? The ball joints without cotter pin holes that I've used always had nylock nuts with the ball joints.
yeah, they have nylock nuts but their kind of small where the stock bolt is more of a washer castle nut combo. I reused the stock bolt minus the cotter pin.
should i put some red thread locker on atleast?
Use what's provided with confidence. The nut mainly serves to draw the stud into the taper. Once its there, its locked in place- that's what really keeps things together. The nut does provide retention too but the entire suspension load is not placed on it.
Originally Posted By: Kool1
I've seen that happen on a few applications myself. Does it use a nylock nut to secure the ball joint? The ball joints without cotter pin holes that I've used always had nylock nuts with the ball joints.
yeah, they have nylock nuts but their kind of small where the stock bolt is more of a washer castle nut combo. I reused the stock bolt minus the cotter pin.
should i put some red thread locker on atleast?
Use what's provided with confidence. The nut mainly serves to draw the stud into the taper. Once its there, its locked in place- that's what really keeps things together. The nut does provide retention too but the entire suspension load is not placed on it.
Originally Posted By: andyd
The only thing about nylocks is that you have to exert pressure on the joint to jam it to tighten the nylock. Keep the old castle nut, use it to pull the taper up. back it of quickly and run the nylock on.
Yeah that drives me crazy.
Did a sway bar end link on my wife's HHR. New part doesn't have the hex on the end of the studs so I can hold them from spinning, and came with those high-drag nuts.
The only thing about nylocks is that you have to exert pressure on the joint to jam it to tighten the nylock. Keep the old castle nut, use it to pull the taper up. back it of quickly and run the nylock on.
Yeah that drives me crazy.
Did a sway bar end link on my wife's HHR. New part doesn't have the hex on the end of the studs so I can hold them from spinning, and came with those high-drag nuts.
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