New Purolator techs

pcf

Joined
Jan 28, 2009
Messages
43
Location
DFW Texas
$2.40 filters from Amazon. TL14610 made in USA and TL14612 made in China.

I was really surprised by the Chinese filter it appears to be a dead ringer for Microgard/Pentius etc relabeled filters.

The 14612 had 66 sq in of media and the 146110 had 83 sq in. Both cellulose. The 14610 felt thicker but tore more easily. The extra pleating helped close the gap. 50% less height, 25% less media.

The 14610 looks like a decent jobber filter, and the 14612 looks like a step up from that.
 

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One more a TL14776, made in India.

Outward appearance is this is a nice filter, but it’s fatally flawed. Heavy can. Big holes in tapping plate. Metal core with holes and lots of pleats. Nice string coil spring.

84 sq in of media. It’s cellulose and there’s lots of it.

On closer inspection the ADBV is getting pressed into the tapping plate and those holes lose about half their area. I’m not confident that is going to stay open over time.

The bypass is a nice captured coil spring with a rubber plug. It’s sealed shut. The rubber is getting pushed into the hole and a raised edge is already etch into it.
 

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how's the ADBV?
If this in reference to possible cuts or indentions, at least for topic application Puro filters (14610-12,14477-76), never had that issue because the adbv central part doesn't rest on the inlet holes. Otoh, on some of the larger filters, the central part of adbv rest on the inlets, those are the applications where the indentions or worst case cuts have been seen.

As for "better than a real Purolator", at least for the TL14610, looks like typical Puro construction. Without seeing date code, looks like those made in Fayetteville, NC.

As for topic 14610/(7317) vs shorty 14612/(6607) where room permits, I always prefer to use the larger application. Here, also like still made in US. What I can see, for a jobber filter, TL14610 'looks' ok to me.
 
As for "better than a real Purolator", at least for the TL14610, looks like typical Puro construction. Without seeing date code, looks like those made in Fayetteville, NC.
It’s F09P21E2

If I was going to throw shade at a US Purolator it would be over sloppy glue like this. This one can go in the trash. Probably small enough to not clog an oil squirter, but I don’t think it would get through a Vtec/Vvt screen.
 

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It’s F09P21E2

If I was going to throw shade at a US Purolator it would be over sloppy glue like this. This one can go in the trash. Probably small enough to not clog an oil squirter, but I don’t think it would get through a Vtec/Vvt screen.
Is that the glue in the bottom of the can?
 
Cut apart the filter with sloppy glue and there’s a lot. The loose glue was what I could wipe off with my finger in one pass. I don’t know that it would get through the bypass.
That's horrible. Yes, there would be a chance some of that glue could come loose and go through the filter bypass valve. Nobody should be using those filters.
 
Rather than send the last three back to Amazon I cut them open.

Think I’ll backtrack previous statement about the US made filters being decent jobber filters.
 

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One more a TL14776, made in India.

Outward appearance is this is a nice filter, but it’s fatally flawed. Heavy can. Big holes in tapping plate. Metal core with holes and lots of pleats. Nice string coil spring.

84 sq in of media. It’s cellulose and there’s lots of it.

On closer inspection the ADBV is getting pressed into the tapping plate and those holes lose about half their area. I’m not confident that is going to stay open over time.

The bypass is a nice captured coil spring with a rubber plug. It’s sealed shut. The rubber is getting pushed into the hole and a raised edge is already etch into it.
I have three of these TL14776 on hand for my sister's Toyota they look decent. She runs her oil changes out to 10K easily I don't know if she will want to put her faith in them for that length of time.
 
I used The Champion-made Mobil1 filters for years with confidence, also trusted the Wix/NAPA filters as well, Purolator was always a cheap filter and Fram has gotten much better as of late, as Mann Hummel and others have bought up and changed/cheapened so many of the time trusted brands it's a constant crap-shoot anymore. I have decided to stop the endless process of finding a perfect filter, because it doesn't exist, so much has been outsourced to China, Vietnam and who knows where else. I've driven Hondas for many years and with Hondacare extended warranty, my dealership does most of my servicing (at 76, it ain't worth it to DIY) I still do intake & cabin filters, wipers, etc, but for oil change I just give my technician 4 quarts of Mobil1 0w20 EP and they provide a Honda 15400-PLM-A02 filter (the Fram in a blue can) For my 5000mi or less OCI's it will do just fine. Mobil1 made a stupid move replacing the Champion-made filter with a Purolator IMHO.
 
I have three of these TL14776 on hand for my sister's Toyota they look decent. She runs her oil changes out to 10K easily I don't know if she will want to put her faith in them for that length of time.
My big concern was the frozen bypass. Honestly I don’t think filters bypass all that often on Toyotas. I find soot in the cans, but rarely does even a spec of spot accumulate in the VVTI filter. If you need it to bypass it’s a critical feature.

It makes sense now. It’s usually a metal, fiber or plastic disc in a bypass. Rubber would seem like a good choice because it seals, but I hadn’t thought about getting pushed through the hole and seizing.
 
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