Motul 300V 5W40 - 7700 miles - '01 Audi S4
- Thread starter RallyJon
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Not to be a nay sayer, but at $15 a liter for 300V, it does not seem to be giving you any additional benefits that a lower cost synthetic would give you. I even suspect that at half the price Motul Excess 5W-40 would perform about the same.
RI, after searching RL street oils and Motul 300V comparable UOA's I have to agree with you the 300V is not much different in specs then RL. (Or Motul street oils)
Moly, Tin, Lead, Phosphorus etc.. are little different roughly looking at the same type of car and mileage but it's so little it doesn't justify the extra cost. You certainly will not notice better performance with 300V because I've tried them both. As for other variables such as engine temp etc... could have impact but I don't see any extra benefits in UOA's. I'd admit I'm little disappointed because of the cost and hype of the 300V.
I do like ester products and would like to see more companies go to poly ester basestock with an excellent additive package.
RI, after searching RL street oils and Motul 300V comparable UOA's I have to agree with you the 300V is not much different in specs then RL. (Or Motul street oils)
I do like ester products and would like to see more companies go to poly ester basestock with an excellent additive package.
IMO, the whole point of 300v is for people who go to the track and see some pretty high oil temps. I know that RI took his rs4 to the track with 300v and didnt have spectactular results (not many cars have the same fuel dilution problems).
I would imagine if you take 300v and put it against motul 8100 in a track setting, you would see enough of a difference to justify the cost.
As for normal driving, Motul 8100 should be more than plenty.
I will be running motul 8100 5w40 in the summer and will post my UOA next winter. Currently I am running elf and should have a UOA in the next month or 2 (cant decide how many km's to put on the oil)
I would imagine if you take 300v and put it against motul 8100 in a track setting, you would see enough of a difference to justify the cost.
As for normal driving, Motul 8100 should be more than plenty.
I will be running motul 8100 5w40 in the summer and will post my UOA next winter. Currently I am running elf and should have a UOA in the next month or 2 (cant decide how many km's to put on the oil)
Originally Posted By: Saab9-3
IMO, the whole point of 300v is for people who go to the track and see some pretty high oil temps. I know that RI took his rs4 to the track with 300v and didnt have spectactular results (not many cars have the same fuel dilution problems).
My recollection is that RI_RS4 knew someone that used 300V but didn't use it himself. In any case, the UOA he reported showed good results on every metal but tin. The tin was about 15ppm. I have a 300V VOA that showed about 19ppm tin in brand new oil. I don't know if it's an additive or it comes from the metal cans they ship it in, but it's not likely that it's from the engine.
On that basis 300V in the Audi RS-4 engine actually did quite well - the add pack is old-school but the base chemistry is modern (they don't market it as a bio-buzzword oil but they could if they wanted to).
If your engine and your usage of it are easy on oil, you won't notice a difference with 300V. If you have a highly loaded engine that's tough on oil and you spend hours on a race track, 300V will show better UOA wear metals than pretty much anything else. RLI may be better still (I haven't tried it yet) but 300V has an amazing capacity to handle abuse and fuel dilution.
IMO, the whole point of 300v is for people who go to the track and see some pretty high oil temps. I know that RI took his rs4 to the track with 300v and didnt have spectactular results (not many cars have the same fuel dilution problems).
My recollection is that RI_RS4 knew someone that used 300V but didn't use it himself. In any case, the UOA he reported showed good results on every metal but tin. The tin was about 15ppm. I have a 300V VOA that showed about 19ppm tin in brand new oil. I don't know if it's an additive or it comes from the metal cans they ship it in, but it's not likely that it's from the engine.
On that basis 300V in the Audi RS-4 engine actually did quite well - the add pack is old-school but the base chemistry is modern (they don't market it as a bio-buzzword oil but they could if they wanted to).
If your engine and your usage of it are easy on oil, you won't notice a difference with 300V. If you have a highly loaded engine that's tough on oil and you spend hours on a race track, 300V will show better UOA wear metals than pretty much anything else. RLI may be better still (I haven't tried it yet) but 300V has an amazing capacity to handle abuse and fuel dilution.
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Originally Posted By: JAG
The oil above has a lot of detergents (calcium and magnesium-based).
And diesel like package, as Terry has noticed once. Besides, gr.V base-stock itself has a good natural detergent-dispersive properties. The new version is little bit different from this one: aslo gr.V, but not BIO, and another additive package.
The only concern I have is a leak through a carter's joint. I would not be surprised if it's happened with PAO, but not with esters that are known for their seal swell properties. Quite strange. May be, bio grades has a little bit different behavior with time.
The oil above has a lot of detergents (calcium and magnesium-based).
And diesel like package, as Terry has noticed once. Besides, gr.V base-stock itself has a good natural detergent-dispersive properties. The new version is little bit different from this one: aslo gr.V, but not BIO, and another additive package.
The only concern I have is a leak through a carter's joint. I would not be surprised if it's happened with PAO, but not with esters that are known for their seal swell properties. Quite strange. May be, bio grades has a little bit different behavior with time.
Good to know, I might pick this oil up in the summer time as it is readily available to me. I know its pricey, but like to see how it handles my turbo.
Another UOA with 10000miles OCI.
What about color and condition of 300V after 10000miles?
What about color and condition of 300V after 10000miles?
Do you happen to recall what the viscosity measurements were for the first run of Mobil 1 Ow40 from 49k-55k? Looking at the numbers, I'm just wondering what value you've seen over the last 43k miles.
Cheers,
Jeff
Cheers,
Jeff
They all did good. I would say M1 0W40 just as well since it's only fault is 2 ppm of lead which is really insignifacant. So if you want a cheaper oil it would appear the M1 0W40 is up to the job in this application.
Wow this 300v 0w40 has a great level of zddp from that blackstone report.
Do you know if the 300v 15w50 has the same levels?
Do you know if the 300v 15w50 has the same levels?
Is this true data? Does the 15w50 have less zddp (significantly)?
Motul 300V Competition 5w40
P (ppm) :1317
Zn (ppm): 1409
Motul 300V Competition 15w50
P (ppm) : 1139
Zn (ppm): 1130
Motul 300V Competition 5w40
P (ppm) :1317
Zn (ppm): 1409
Motul 300V Competition 15w50
P (ppm) : 1139
Zn (ppm): 1130
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
All 300V has been reformulated since this uoa. I would contact Motul or Melimauri.
-Dennis
We still have the old stock here. Benefits of living in the third world. Lol
All 300V has been reformulated since this uoa. I would contact Motul or Melimauri.
-Dennis
We still have the old stock here. Benefits of living in the third world. Lol
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