Most aggressive wheel cleaner for painted alloy wheels? (Or DIY formula?)

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I am cleaning up a used car that has been sitting for I think almost three years. It will clean up well in the end but one problem is hardened brake dust on the rims.

It has painted alloy wheels (Volvo) and the dust is from semi-metallic pads. It is in a very hard coat in the flats of the rim circumference, the rest of the wheels clean up very nicely. I tried some Turtle Wax Tire and Wheel cleaning and scrubbing and it was useless. As mentioned, I think this dust has been sitting in place and baking on for three years or more.

What cleaner or DIY formula, or other cleaner/technique, would be smart to use here?

I was wondering if something like Evapo-Rust might be good here.
 
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Something similar to this:

Find a local detail supplies distributor and ask for a generic product that is similar.
 
I have an '05 Hyundai as my 'winter beater' and around town car where about nothing worked to fully clean them. Argent color paint was a perfect match to the OE and worked great.
 
Wife's Honda had really baked-in brake dust on the alloys... granted they were kind of beat (clear peeling and curbed). Tried a few cleaners before (Megs Ultimate All-Wheel, Hot Rims, E1 All Wheel) with little success on those difficult spots and finally Meguiars Hot Rims Chrome wheel cleaner (acid) was up to the task... let it dwell for 10-20 seconds and agitate. Took multiple applications and it worked better when applied to dry wheel (as water dilutes solution a bit).

Supposedly Meguiars Wheel Brightener can really attack difficult wheels (concentrated, strength can be adjusted) and I want to try P&S Brake Buster.
 
My buddy showed me a bottle of some special $30 / 6 Oz. wheel cleaner he got from anLincoln dealer. i smelled it and looked at it thinking it reminded me of the same cheap Painters phosphoric acid that I use on rusty steel. I went and got my spray bottle and sprayed mine on another spot. Sure enough it worked like a charm. Spray on rinse off. Nothing but cheap Parks phosphoric acid You can get at Home Depot in the paint department. Works like a charm and I cant see why it could hurt paint using it like this since you eat and drink it every day. It’s also a great paint prep for rusty steel and aluminum that is pitted. That’s my nickels worth.
 

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Supposedly Meguiars Wheel Brightener can really attack difficult wheels (concentrated, strength can be adjusted) and I want to try P&S Brake Buster.
Meguiars Wheel Brightener is fairly weak compared to the commercial strength "wire wheel cleaners" that contain actual hydrofluoric acid. I used the wire wheel cleaner at full strength vs the recommended 1:1, it works well. Any local detail supply place should have a similar product.

P&S Brake Buster is pretty weak in my experience. But their Acid Based wire wheel cleaner is excellent.
 
Don't use acid based products on a painted wheel. It will stain them. The Iron X is a good product. That and a brush will produce good results. It is made for painted surfaces.
 
Acid ok on a beater but not for any wheels you care about.
Acid can be used safely on wheels with a factory finish if you take the proper precautions. It is faster and equally effective. But the acid must be used properly and neutralized afterwards.
 
This is all I've been using for years with great success:


I used this today and am somewhat disappointed with the results. I bought two bottles and followed the directions exactly. While there was a "red" runoff, the wheels still look very stained with almost no change.

I applied the spray on cool, dry, clean wheels (not in the sun). The spray went on kinda green colored. I waited the five minutes per the instructions, and agitated the surfaces with a brush.

I used a water hose to rinse off the chemicals, under normal household pressure. The runoff was "red" but it seems like this is a very mild cleaner made for wheels without severe buildup or staining.

Thoughts?
 
Well, I compared the SDS sheets for Sonnax and Car-Pro products (the ones recommended above). Both use ammonium mercaptoacetate (thioglycolic acid) as the active agent. So, unless the concentration is higher in one over the other, neither one is going to work better than the other.

Time to try the other suggestions above...
 
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