This oil is going to be ran in a gas engine and obviously the Rotella is diesel and the M1 and castrol are gas engine oils but I won't to know the honest differences between them. I also know that Rotella uses primarily magnesium as a detergent and M1 uses calcium as a detergent, what are the difference between them 2 types of detergents? TIA
Mobil one 0w40 vs Rotella T6 5w40 vs Castrol 0w40
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Originally Posted By: Nick1996
This oil is going to be ran in a gas engine
Which engine?
This oil is going to be ran in a gas engine
Which engine?
Not sure what your actual question is here, but the T6 might be problematic over the long term due to its higher levels of phosphorus and the impact of that element on your catalytic converter.
Originally Posted By: Astro_Guy
Not sure what your actual question is here, but the T6 might be problematic over the long term due to its higher levels of phosphorus and the impact of that element on your catalytic converter.
It's API SM rated. How problematic can it really be?
All in all, unless it's a Euro engine that calls for a specific Euro spec, I'd just use whatever is cheaper and/or easier to obtain.
Not sure what your actual question is here, but the T6 might be problematic over the long term due to its higher levels of phosphorus and the impact of that element on your catalytic converter.
It's API SM rated. How problematic can it really be?
All in all, unless it's a Euro engine that calls for a specific Euro spec, I'd just use whatever is cheaper and/or easier to obtain.
Engines in question are a 2002 civic d17 and 1998 Tacoma 3.4, both are currently running T6, but I'm happy with the Rotella I am just curious of the actual differences of the three
I think different detergents will have impact ovrr tbn retention. Like RT6 with Mg, having a better retention in spire of a lower initial number than a Ca based like the others. Too much Ca are giving lspi in new tdi engines, for example.
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Astro_Guy
Not sure what your actual question is here, but the T6 might be problematic over the long term due to its higher levels of phosphorus and the impact of that element on your catalytic converter.
It's API SM rated. How problematic can it really be?
All in all, unless it's a Euro engine that calls for a specific Euro spec, I'd just use whatever is cheaper and/or easier to obtain.
He said might be. Which means he has no idea, he's just thinking out loud.
I'd use the cheaper, most readily available of the three.
Originally Posted By: Astro_Guy
Not sure what your actual question is here, but the T6 might be problematic over the long term due to its higher levels of phosphorus and the impact of that element on your catalytic converter.
It's API SM rated. How problematic can it really be?
All in all, unless it's a Euro engine that calls for a specific Euro spec, I'd just use whatever is cheaper and/or easier to obtain.
He said might be. Which means he has no idea, he's just thinking out loud.
I'd use the cheaper, most readily available of the three.
Originally Posted By: Nick1996
Engines in question are a 2002 civic d17 and 1998 Tacoma 3.4, both are currently running T6, but I'm happy with the Rotella I am just curious of the actual differences of the three
What you run is your choice, but I'm curious why a 40 weight oil in either of those engines?
Engines in question are a 2002 civic d17 and 1998 Tacoma 3.4, both are currently running T6, but I'm happy with the Rotella I am just curious of the actual differences of the three
What you run is your choice, but I'm curious why a 40 weight oil in either of those engines?
Originally Posted By: Nick1996
Engines in question are a 2002 civic d17 and 1998 Tacoma 3.4, both are currently running T6, but I'm happy with the Rotella I am just curious of the actual differences of the three
Not sure why you using W40 weight in those engines. But my choice would be M1 or Castrol. T6 is not on par with them as it has higher NOACK number and it is heavier too. Castrol 0W40 also has very good HTHS and it is among them only real full synthetic oil. Still, all three bit too heave for your application.
Engines in question are a 2002 civic d17 and 1998 Tacoma 3.4, both are currently running T6, but I'm happy with the Rotella I am just curious of the actual differences of the three
Not sure why you using W40 weight in those engines. But my choice would be M1 or Castrol. T6 is not on par with them as it has higher NOACK number and it is heavier too. Castrol 0W40 also has very good HTHS and it is among them only real full synthetic oil. Still, all three bit too heave for your application.
I like quiter engines, and my hinda commutes 100 miles a day on interstate at high rpms and I want a 10k drain interval so I like the added protection of the 40wt and it brought my engine noise from a loud sewing machine to as quite as a mouse. My Honda is still burning about .5 or a quart every 2k miles with the Rotella, do you think that's mostly due to its poor Noack numbers?
Originally Posted By: Nick1996
I like quiter engines, and my hinda commutes 100 miles a day on interstate at high rpms and I want a 10k drain interval so I like the added protection of the 40wt and it brought my engine noise from a loud sewing machine to as quite as a mouse. My Honda is still burning about .5 or a quart every 2k miles with the Rotella, do you think that's mostly due to its poor Noack numbers?
I'd say it has little, to nothing to do with the NOACK numbers, likely has more to do with the age and mileage of the car and perhaps more to do with the inability of your worn low tension rings ability to co troll the heavier oil. The consumption isn't at an alarming rate by any means, just keep it topped off and motor on.
I like quiter engines, and my hinda commutes 100 miles a day on interstate at high rpms and I want a 10k drain interval so I like the added protection of the 40wt and it brought my engine noise from a loud sewing machine to as quite as a mouse. My Honda is still burning about .5 or a quart every 2k miles with the Rotella, do you think that's mostly due to its poor Noack numbers?
I'd say it has little, to nothing to do with the NOACK numbers, likely has more to do with the age and mileage of the car and perhaps more to do with the inability of your worn low tension rings ability to co troll the heavier oil. The consumption isn't at an alarming rate by any means, just keep it topped off and motor on.
Originally Posted By: Astro_Guy
Not sure what your actual question is here, but the T6 might be problematic over the long term due to its higher levels of phosphorus and the impact of that element on your catalytic converter.
Does the T6 have higher levels of phosphorous over the Mobil 1 and Castrol? Did you check there levels before posting? Remember 40 weight oil are not required to reduce there zinc and phosphorous levels for API SM or SN.
Not sure what your actual question is here, but the T6 might be problematic over the long term due to its higher levels of phosphorus and the impact of that element on your catalytic converter.
Does the T6 have higher levels of phosphorous over the Mobil 1 and Castrol? Did you check there levels before posting? Remember 40 weight oil are not required to reduce there zinc and phosphorous levels for API SM or SN.
Mobil 1 has just as much zinc and phosphorus as Rotella does, look at the VOA's, and my care used to burn a quart every 1k miles with 5w20 so I think the 40wt is saving it not killing it. So the Castrol edge 0w40 has better HTHS? I haven't heard much about this oil but have been wanting to try it, I'm more of a castrol guy than Mobil 1 anyways
I really don't understand why you think you need a xw40 oil in a Honda Civic. My 2005 Civic with the 1.7L four ran 159K miles on Mobil1 5w20 and 0w20, and was running strong when it encountered a Ford Excursion SUV head on. I think that you are asking for trouble with the Catalytic converter if you continue to run these oils with their elevated levels of Phosphorus. My 2001 Civic had all of its original exhaust system in place as of January 2016.
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Originally Posted By: Astro_Guy
I really don't understand why you think you need a xw40 oil in a Honda Civic. My 2001 Civic with the 1.7L four ran 159K miles on Mobil1 5w20 and 0w20, and was running strong when it encountered a Ford Excursion SUV head on. I think that you are asking for trouble with the Catalytic converter if you continue to run these oils with their elevated levels of Phosphorus. My 2001 Civic had all of its original exhaust system in place as of January 2016.
Sounds like [censored] with 20wt oil and burns a ton, almost non existent engine noise and very little oil burning with 40wt, and literally 0 mpg change between the 2
I really don't understand why you think you need a xw40 oil in a Honda Civic. My 2001 Civic with the 1.7L four ran 159K miles on Mobil1 5w20 and 0w20, and was running strong when it encountered a Ford Excursion SUV head on. I think that you are asking for trouble with the Catalytic converter if you continue to run these oils with their elevated levels of Phosphorus. My 2001 Civic had all of its original exhaust system in place as of January 2016.
Sounds like [censored] with 20wt oil and burns a ton, almost non existent engine noise and very little oil burning with 40wt, and literally 0 mpg change between the 2
If it's a potential burner, Rotella T6 5W-40 is about as cheap as it gets for a syn
Originally Posted By: Nick1996
Sounds like [censored] with 20wt oil and burns a ton, almost non existent engine noise and very little oil burning with 40wt, and literally 0 mpg change between the 2
Hi Nick, it makes sense to me that you are running a 40 weight oil in your Honda.
If I read the above posts on oil consumption correctly:
5W40 burns 0.5 Qt per 2k miles
5W20 burns 1.0 Qt per 1k miles
That's a 400% increase in oil consumption using the 20 grade oil !!
Even if the 20 grade has less Phos than the 40 grade, say 700 ppm Vs 1100 ppm, interms of Phos ppm per mile you are doing less damage to the cat on the 40 weight than using the ILSAC 20 weight.
Factor in less noise and no measurable MPG hit on the 40 weight, and it all makes good sense to me.
Sounds like [censored] with 20wt oil and burns a ton, almost non existent engine noise and very little oil burning with 40wt, and literally 0 mpg change between the 2
Hi Nick, it makes sense to me that you are running a 40 weight oil in your Honda.
If I read the above posts on oil consumption correctly:
5W40 burns 0.5 Qt per 2k miles
5W20 burns 1.0 Qt per 1k miles
That's a 400% increase in oil consumption using the 20 grade oil !!
Even if the 20 grade has less Phos than the 40 grade, say 700 ppm Vs 1100 ppm, interms of Phos ppm per mile you are doing less damage to the cat on the 40 weight than using the ILSAC 20 weight.
Factor in less noise and no measurable MPG hit on the 40 weight, and it all makes good sense to me.
Rotella seems to be working for you. I see no use to change what you are doing.
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