Mobil 15w40 Delvac
- Thread starter Ruby
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Delvac 15W40, Delo 15W40, Motorcraft 15W40, and Schaeffers 15W40 will all perform great in a 7.3 PSD. I'd give the slight nod to Schaeffer's, although all of those that I mentioned will perform well.
If you want something available locally I'd go with Delo and enjoy a great oil protecting your engine. Haven't you asked this question a time or two in the past
If you want something available locally I'd go with Delo and enjoy a great oil protecting your engine. Haven't you asked this question a time or two in the past
I just picked up an old book "How to keep your car forever" at a Buck A Book store. It used the anology of oil to major league baseball teams.
All the diesel rated oils are in the same league and are qualified to play in that league. On a given day under a certain curcumstance one oil might be better than another. Just as in baseball, some teams are better than others, but at the end of the day they're all in the same league.
Some day if you ever get the magic response you are looking for to your perpetual question, would you please let us all know.
All the diesel rated oils are in the same league and are qualified to play in that league. On a given day under a certain curcumstance one oil might be better than another. Just as in baseball, some teams are better than others, but at the end of the day they're all in the same league.
Some day if you ever get the magic response you are looking for to your perpetual question, would you please let us all know.
I use a blend and pefer to use the same type of oil so I use Mobil 1 T&S and Delvac 1300. Rotella dino and synthetic would work per that criteria too but Mobil seems to be the better oil. If I didn't use a blend I'd probably use Delo as it's at least a leading candidiate for the best dino HDEO, and is offered in more locations.
"I was just wondering why you would think you would get something better by blending your own oil?"
Better viscosity for start up, a bit less noise. I have a 'city truck' so it will see a lot of cold starts, and an oil with a wider vicosity range will do better for that. I noticed that the truck ran a bit quiter with Exxon XD3 Elite, a synthetic blend, but when it became unavailable I started doing my own. For warranty I need a fairly short oil change interval so I can't afford to be dumping 3 gal of Delvac 1 or Mobil 1 T&S on a regular basis.
Better viscosity for start up, a bit less noise. I have a 'city truck' so it will see a lot of cold starts, and an oil with a wider vicosity range will do better for that. I noticed that the truck ran a bit quiter with Exxon XD3 Elite, a synthetic blend, but when it became unavailable I started doing my own. For warranty I need a fairly short oil change interval so I can't afford to be dumping 3 gal of Delvac 1 or Mobil 1 T&S on a regular basis.
Both my 2.5L Jeep and LS1 SS have shown best wear results with a thick almost 40W oil. Blending 3qts M5000 @ 2qts Delvac 15W-40 meets this spec and has provided great results. Same with the SS except it holds more oil.
You know there are other semi sythetics on the market. I think Shell has a couple but not sure maybe a 10W40. I would be a little nervous mixing a true group 5 baseoil and a group 2 base oil motor oil because of the additive chemistry in each. It probably works for you but I don't think any oil company or engine manufacturer would recommend it and it could end up voiding your warranty in the long run. Just my thoughts..
"...It probably works for you but I don't think any oil company or engine manufacturer would recommend it and it could end up voiding your warranty in the long run."
If I switch from 100% 15w40 dino to 100% 5w40 synthetic I end up with a blend due to the amount left in the engine. If the oils are so incompatible they should state that one needs to do flush with the intended oil, dump it, and put fresh oil in before using it in service. If one is low on oil but none of the oil is available then one will need to park the vehicle until the correct oil can be found for topping off.
If I switch from 100% 15w40 dino to 100% 5w40 synthetic I end up with a blend due to the amount left in the engine. If the oils are so incompatible they should state that one needs to do flush with the intended oil, dump it, and put fresh oil in before using it in service. If one is low on oil but none of the oil is available then one will need to park the vehicle until the correct oil can be found for topping off.
I see your point, I was just not sure if the chemisty between the two are different. I have always been told its ok to top off and that the products are compatable but the oil companys make the products how the OEM's want them and trying to modify them actually takes away from performance rather than adds to it.
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