Thanks for the advice. The vehicle is an 04 dodge ram w/ the 3.7 v6. I'm trying to avoid dropping the pan or pulling the valve covers and plan on doing a UAO on my current run once I hit 5k miles. I'm thinking the previous owner used it mostly for short trips as it was his work truck maintaining a local rental property. The vehicle isn't showing any signs of severe sludge like oil pressure drops or anything, but the fact that the oil fill is more than 1/2 qt off scares me.
Mobil 1 better cleaner than AutoRx?
- Thread starter buster
- Start date
- Status
My car reads way high (3/4 quart or so) on the dipstick when I put a full 5 quarts (the stated capacity) into the sump. I don't think I would worry about it.
Originally Posted By: chambers
Thanks for the advice. The vehicle is an 04 dodge ram w/ the 3.7 v6. I'm trying to avoid dropping the pan or pulling the valve covers and plan on doing a UAO on my current run once I hit 5k miles. I'm thinking the previous owner used it mostly for short trips as it was his work truck maintaining a local rental property. The vehicle isn't showing any signs of severe sludge like oil pressure drops or anything, but the fact that the oil fill is more than 1/2 qt off scares me.
Given the situation, I'd just use synthetic for a few OCIs. Maybe add a pint of MMO for the last 500-1000 miles if you really want to dump something in there, but even that is probably going to prove unnecessary.
Thanks for the advice. The vehicle is an 04 dodge ram w/ the 3.7 v6. I'm trying to avoid dropping the pan or pulling the valve covers and plan on doing a UAO on my current run once I hit 5k miles. I'm thinking the previous owner used it mostly for short trips as it was his work truck maintaining a local rental property. The vehicle isn't showing any signs of severe sludge like oil pressure drops or anything, but the fact that the oil fill is more than 1/2 qt off scares me.
Given the situation, I'd just use synthetic for a few OCIs. Maybe add a pint of MMO for the last 500-1000 miles if you really want to dump something in there, but even that is probably going to prove unnecessary.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
I'd run a few short OCIs of synthetic before formulating a game plan. See what drains out. It might be much ado about nothing. Have you considered dropping the pan and seeing what's in there or removing the valve covers to see what's up? Or perhaps a UOA on the synthetic to see how things are wearing? Honestly, I'd doubt there's much wrong with just 22K on the clock, even if the OCIs were 7K.
Here's where some things look a little different between one person and another.
How much more will it cost to use a synthetic over a few short OCI's? When will he "know" that it's time to go back to "whatever"? How much labor involved with a pan and valve cover removal ..even under the assumption that he's doing it?
I'd run a few short OCIs of synthetic before formulating a game plan. See what drains out. It might be much ado about nothing. Have you considered dropping the pan and seeing what's in there or removing the valve covers to see what's up? Or perhaps a UOA on the synthetic to see how things are wearing? Honestly, I'd doubt there's much wrong with just 22K on the clock, even if the OCIs were 7K.
Here's where some things look a little different between one person and another.
How much more will it cost to use a synthetic over a few short OCI's? When will he "know" that it's time to go back to "whatever"? How much labor involved with a pan and valve cover removal ..even under the assumption that he's doing it?
Quite so. That's why I prefaced my statement with the "what I'd do" clause.
Presumably he'd know to go back to 'whatever' when the oil capacity went back up toward normal. If it were me, I'd just whatever synthetic is on sale right now so hopefully the cost wouldn't be too very different. As far as the pan removal, that's probably not too bad, but I don't know what's involved in taking off the covers from a 3.7. Of course, when I said that, I didn't know what the model engine we were talking about at all.
Presumably he'd know to go back to 'whatever' when the oil capacity went back up toward normal. If it were me, I'd just whatever synthetic is on sale right now so hopefully the cost wouldn't be too very different. As far as the pan removal, that's probably not too bad, but I don't know what's involved in taking off the covers from a 3.7. Of course, when I said that, I didn't know what the model engine we were talking about at all.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
Well, it's not just that. I'm way to lazy to engage in that elective labor. I've got too much on the mandatory end of things. Full plate and my cup runneth over.
Then again, I guess I could ration my screwing off time down a tick.
Then again, I guess I could ration my screwing off time down a tick.
Well if synthetics like Pennzoil platinum, mobil 1 HM, and others clean as well as they claim then a couple oil changes should show me if there is some sludge in there. I'm just a kind of fix it now type of person, so when I suspect a problem I want to quickly remedy it and AutoRX seemed like the fastest way. Thanks for your input guys.
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2003
- Messages
- 23,591
Originally Posted By: chambers
AutoRX seemed like the fastest way.
AutoRX seemed like the fastest way.
chambers experience shows RX is NOT the fastest way. If you want quick, keep your money in your pocket.
I'd be more concerned with the safest way to correct the problem, not necessarily the fastest.
I agree so someone correct me if I'm off, but it seems running a good synthetic for a couple shorter OCI's will be safer than the quick clean of autoRX. Then after seeing what drains out and a couple UAO's begin extending the interval accordingly.
Last edited:
You're right. Using a good oil by itself is always the safest option.
My BMW had the 'good oil' changed at 1/3 rd normal OCI. RX improved it immeasurably. Oils lube, RX cleans, use the right tool for the job.
Originally Posted By: chambers
I agree so someone correct me if I'm off, but it seems running a good synthetic for a couple shorter OCI's will be safer than the quick clean of autoRX. Then after seeing what drains out and a couple UAO's begin extending the interval accordingly.
I have to disagree. In my own experience w/ both products Mobil1 does not even come close to the cleaning ability of A-Rx.A-Rx is not a quick cleaner! Not a solvent flush, thats a quick clean. A-Rx has removed the varnish from my valve train in 2.5k. Mobil1 never even changed the color of the valve train after 4 oci's of 3k in my 99 civic. A- rx has done more in 2.5k than M1 did in 12k. I am not bashing M1 it's a great lubricant but i did not see any cleaning. My .02 for what it's worth!
Joe
I agree so someone correct me if I'm off, but it seems running a good synthetic for a couple shorter OCI's will be safer than the quick clean of autoRX. Then after seeing what drains out and a couple UAO's begin extending the interval accordingly.
I have to disagree. In my own experience w/ both products Mobil1 does not even come close to the cleaning ability of A-Rx.A-Rx is not a quick cleaner! Not a solvent flush, thats a quick clean. A-Rx has removed the varnish from my valve train in 2.5k. Mobil1 never even changed the color of the valve train after 4 oci's of 3k in my 99 civic. A- rx has done more in 2.5k than M1 did in 12k. I am not bashing M1 it's a great lubricant but i did not see any cleaning. My .02 for what it's worth!
Joe
After looking over the AutoRX site and seeing the before and after pictures of that guys 240sx, I have to say I misunderstood how quickly autorx works. Since there is a money back guarantee there isn't anything to lose except shipping costs. I have read the instructions for application on the autorx site and have a couple questions. It says you can run it w/ group 3 oils so I can run it w/ PP or mobil 1 as these are group 3, correct? Is it better to run it w/ something like PP or should I just run conventional on both the clean and rinse cycles? Thanks for your help.
Originally Posted By: chambers
After looking over the AutoRX site and seeing the before and after pictures of that guys 240sx, I have to say I misunderstood how quickly autorx works. Since there is a money back guarantee there isn't anything to lose except shipping costs. I have read the instructions for application on the autorx site and have a couple questions. It says you can run it w/ group 3 oils so I can run it w/ PP or mobil 1 as these are group 3, correct? Is it better to run it w/ something like PP or should I just run conventional on both the clean and rinse cycles? Thanks for your help.
Yes PP would be a good choice or YB, I am 2.5k into a clean phase that i am going to push out to 5k, then rinse. I am using Pennzoil YB for my clean phase and have PP for the rinse phase!I would not use the M1 for either phase as it might have some GroupIV in it! You can use the cheapest conventional oil you can find A-Rx recomends WM St oil or Coastal brand on there website. I chose the YB & PP for there extra cleaning abilities!I have read on here they both work really well w/ A-Rx!
Joe
After looking over the AutoRX site and seeing the before and after pictures of that guys 240sx, I have to say I misunderstood how quickly autorx works. Since there is a money back guarantee there isn't anything to lose except shipping costs. I have read the instructions for application on the autorx site and have a couple questions. It says you can run it w/ group 3 oils so I can run it w/ PP or mobil 1 as these are group 3, correct? Is it better to run it w/ something like PP or should I just run conventional on both the clean and rinse cycles? Thanks for your help.
Yes PP would be a good choice or YB, I am 2.5k into a clean phase that i am going to push out to 5k, then rinse. I am using Pennzoil YB for my clean phase and have PP for the rinse phase!I would not use the M1 for either phase as it might have some GroupIV in it! You can use the cheapest conventional oil you can find A-Rx recomends WM St oil or Coastal brand on there website. I chose the YB & PP for there extra cleaning abilities!I have read on here they both work really well w/ A-Rx!
Joe
Originally Posted By: chambers
Alright, thanks for the info. I probably should have searched a bit more before asking.
No problem! Sharing is what this place is all about, and some really good battles over thick and thin oils!
joe
Alright, thanks for the info. I probably should have searched a bit more before asking.
No problem! Sharing is what this place is all about, and some really good battles over thick and thin oils!
joe
Mobil 1 is Group III? I'd really like to see the data on that.
Originally Posted By: sprintman
Mobil 1 is Group III? I'd really like to see the data on that.
Hey Sprintman, How's it going down under? Yes M1 here in the states been partially gruop III for a few years now.
Joe
Mobil 1 is Group III? I'd really like to see the data on that.
Hey Sprintman, How's it going down under? Yes M1 here in the states been partially gruop III for a few years now.
Joe
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
