Mobil 1 5W-30, 5022 Miles, '04 Toyota Tundra 4.7L V8

[Shmeefer]

First UOA on my Tundra. It's had a steady diet of M1 since the beginning (I changed the OEM fill at about 2500 and then but M1 in at 5000). This UOA is from the summer months, 16 mile daily commute and a few 200-300 mile trips. Truck is not driven very hard. I'd been changing the oil at 5k per the manual, knowing the oil was probably not used up. Now I can get a baseline and experiment with longer intervals as well as different fills (went with M1 Truck/SUV at this change). I will probably do the next change at 5000 again because I'm interested to see how the harsh Michigan winters/winter driving treats the oil.


Engine: Toyota 4.7L V8 (Tundra DC 4X4)
Miles on Engine: 20,122
Oil: Mobil 1 5W-30
Miles on Oil: 5,022
Additional Info: Mobil 1 oil filter, 16 mile daily commute, occasional 200-300 mile trips

Aluminum: 2
Chromium: 0
Iron: 7
Copper: 2
Lead: 2
Tin: 0
Moly: 68
Nickel: 0
Manganese: 0
Silver: 0
Titanium: 0
Potassium: 1
Boron: 39
Silicon: 14
Sodium: 5
Calcium: 2066
Magnesium: 10
Phosphorus: 530
Zinc: 649

Viscosity: 58.1
Flashpoint: 385 F
Fuel %: Antifreeze %: 0.0
Water %: 0.0
Insolubles %: 0.4
TBN: 3.9

Comments: Your Toyota is looking good. All wear read at or below averages for this type of engine, which is a very good indication of normal wearing parts and that you’re operating the engine carefully. The universal averages show normal wear after 4800 miles on the oil. Insolubles were low at 0.4%, showing good oil filtration. No fuel dilution or anti-freeze was found. Silicon was mildly high and it may be from lingering wear-in or a dirty air filter. The TBN read 3.9, still active additives remaining. Try 5500 miles.

 

[The Critic]

Looks good. You could've have had the same results using any 10w-30 API SM conventional at about 1/3 the cost of M1.

The T/SUV will do fine...but is too thick. Anything more than a xw-30 for this engine is unneeded and you're needlessly causing a negative impact on your fuel economy by using it.

Same with the filter...M1 Oil Filters are overkill for 5K intervals, a $2 Supertech filter could've done the job just as well.

 

[Shmeefer]

quote:

---

Looks good. You could've have had the same results using any 10w-30 API SM conventional at about 1/3 the cost of M1.

The T/SUV will do fine...but is too thick. Anything more than a xw-30 for this engine is unneeded and you're needlessly causing a negative impact on your fuel economy by using it.

Same with the filter...M1 Oil Filters are overkill for 5K intervals, a $2 Supertech filter could've done the job just as well.

---

Agreed, so previous to the UOA I spent an extra $28 on piece of mind. Now I can extend the OCI's to maximize the oil life. Also, I typically buy PureONE filters but my local Meijers recently switched to all-FRAM and so I ended up getting the M1 filter from a Pep Boys that I thought carried Purolator.

As for the decreased mileage with the 5W-40 T/SUV, haven't noticed any change so far.

 

[Boaz]

another outstanding UOA from a Toyota engine..

Double the oil change interval bro..

 

[Steve S]

What kind of peace of mind will syn oil get you ?

 

[Shmeefer]

The piece of mind comes from using a quality synthetic, that has been shown on this forum to work well with this engine, and changing it at the manufacturers recommended interval, which is conservative for a synthetic oil.

 

[Amkeer]

Nice report shmeef! I would stick with the 5w30 Mobil1 since it has shown us some great UOA's.

Daily Drives:
-2003 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner,2.7 liter, 4 cylinder, Mobil1 5w30 ODO 22800
-1995 Toyota 4-Runner,3.0 liter,6 cylinder, Mobil1 5w40 tsuv ODO 102100
http://community.webshots.com/user/amkeer

 

[JohnBrowning]

My mothers Tundra gets M1 10W30 in the winter and M1 15W50 in the warm months. Her Tundra is DC TRD Off Road Package etc..... It is going to be paid off next month.We live in Mid-Michigan and have not had any problem with cold starts or poor milage. Dad just changed her oil and I do not know if he decided to stick with M1 10W30 or if he decided to try TSUV or 0W40.

I have 2 quarts of M1 TSUV 5W40 and 2 quarts of M1 0W40 in my 2003 Camry. I did not do this on purpose the TSUV was simply on sale at the time and I already had two quarts of 0W40 on hand.

I have also ran Redline 5W40 dureing winter down to -18°F at the time of start up.

I think that any oil M1 makes from 5W30-5W40 will do just fine in this engine dureing winter. I think M1 0W40 and 5W40 will do great for year round use.

 

[ekpolk]

Search through this section using terms such as "2UZ-FE", or the various vehicles in which this outstanding engine is installed, and look at the results. This is probably the most oil-friedly engine known to man. We have an early one in our 01 Sequoia, and I've yet to see anything but great results, both from M1 and GC. Don't bother with the TSUV again. It's a great oil, but the 40 wt is simply not a match for this engine, at least it's not needed. We've run 30 wts in our very hot summer climate, and I get the same great numbers. You'll just be wasting gas and getting zero in return with the TSUV.

Thanks for the info; enjoy your 4.7, it's a great engine in all respects (except perhaps for thirst...).

 

[Amkeer]

Ek,

I agree! I will be moving back to Mobil 1 10w30 once this interval is done with the TSUV.

 

[chinee]

Another boring Toyota 4.7L V8 UOA... yawn...

ho-hum...

Although M1 10W30 works well, I'm tempted to try something else, just for curiousity's sake. Yeah, I think I'll try one of the "lesser" (cheaper) synthetics next fill, just to make these UOAs a little more interesting. I wonder what that'll be...

 

[caprice_2nv]

Let's try some crappier oil, to see if it causes higher wear numbers? Hmmm, I really wonder about the intentions of some of the people on here. What is the point of spending hours reading on this site, if not to learn the best way to keep our engines running forever? I run synthetic even in my old style 305 Chevy's that are known to run over 400k miles easily on non-synthetic, just for piece of mind since I run them extremely hard at times. Nobody wants to have to do an engine swap outside in the snow when its -20c and you need to get to work the next day and only have one vehicle on the road.