Mobil 1 0w30 racing oil
- Thread starter michaelh
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IDK if racing oils have all of the proper(enough) additives as non-racing oils(for longevity). Which is why we wouldn't want to use racing oils in our DD's or OPE's.
Others will chime in on this subject
Others will chime in on this subject
I have to wonder about "racing oils" that may not contain typical levels of detergents, anti corrosive and acid combating additives for typical uses.
Camguard, a product marketed for aviation use (and other uses) is designed to reduce corrosion in aircraft engines. From my experience, it does fully eliminate the cylinder pitting corrosion I was seeing in my fleet. I mention this, because a properly engineered oil contains additives necessary to combat all sorts of common and long term issues. (piston aircraft oils are not similar to modern automotive oils and don't benefit from the advances we see in modern oils, mostly due to aviation's specific needs)
The oils I like for generator use are Mobil 1, 15W-50 (a robust oil with a slightly better than normal add pack) for "Florida" type use, after hurricanes during very hot and humid weather. Hard working generators will be asked to heat water (4500W load) and run air conditioners. That's tough on them. And, I like Mobil 1, 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck, it has a robust additive package, plenty of ZDDP and being a 5W synthetic, performs well in cool temperatures. However, after putting some in my -10F freezer, it's thick at that temp. So, if you need good flow at extremely low temps, something designed for that will be necessary.
Also, Rotella T6 seems to work out very well for everyone who uses it. Since I can't find T6 any cheaper than the M1 I listed, I don't purchase it.
Camguard, a product marketed for aviation use (and other uses) is designed to reduce corrosion in aircraft engines. From my experience, it does fully eliminate the cylinder pitting corrosion I was seeing in my fleet. I mention this, because a properly engineered oil contains additives necessary to combat all sorts of common and long term issues. (piston aircraft oils are not similar to modern automotive oils and don't benefit from the advances we see in modern oils, mostly due to aviation's specific needs)
The oils I like for generator use are Mobil 1, 15W-50 (a robust oil with a slightly better than normal add pack) for "Florida" type use, after hurricanes during very hot and humid weather. Hard working generators will be asked to heat water (4500W load) and run air conditioners. That's tough on them. And, I like Mobil 1, 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck, it has a robust additive package, plenty of ZDDP and being a 5W synthetic, performs well in cool temperatures. However, after putting some in my -10F freezer, it's thick at that temp. So, if you need good flow at extremely low temps, something designed for that will be necessary.
Also, Rotella T6 seems to work out very well for everyone who uses it. Since I can't find T6 any cheaper than the M1 I listed, I don't purchase it.
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If I wanted to use an M1 product in an air-cooled OPE, I think I'd select 0W-40.
If I wanted to use a 0W-30, I think I'd select GC.
As it is, my OPEs are happy to be fed whatever I have laying around that I picked up cheaply on clearance.
They spent years running Maxlife 20W-50 (.45/qt on clearance IIRC) and then spent a couple of years on some GTX 20W-50 I had left over from an old German car I had used it in before I knew any better.
If you check M1R out on the M1 site, you'll see that they specifically recommend against its use in street cars and there was no API spec I could find. The PDS is not sufficiently detailed to learn much about the oil's formulation, although HTHS is much higher than it is for M1 0W-30 AFE and almost as high as the HTHS of GC.
I see no reason to spend the insane amount of money this oil would cost to run it in an OPE, since it may not even be suited to that use, much less offer any advantage.
If I wanted to use a 0W-30, I think I'd select GC.
As it is, my OPEs are happy to be fed whatever I have laying around that I picked up cheaply on clearance.
They spent years running Maxlife 20W-50 (.45/qt on clearance IIRC) and then spent a couple of years on some GTX 20W-50 I had left over from an old German car I had used it in before I knew any better.
If you check M1R out on the M1 site, you'll see that they specifically recommend against its use in street cars and there was no API spec I could find. The PDS is not sufficiently detailed to learn much about the oil's formulation, although HTHS is much higher than it is for M1 0W-30 AFE and almost as high as the HTHS of GC.
I see no reason to spend the insane amount of money this oil would cost to run it in an OPE, since it may not even be suited to that use, much less offer any advantage.
"I see no reason to spend the insane amount of money this oil would cost to run it in an OPE, since it may not even be suited to that use, much less offer any advantage."
Some people just make too much sense sometimes. Might be blasphemy to the fan-boys of high tech lubricants, however, it's hard to ague against the truth.
I guess, when presented with harsh realities, they can always resort to Adam Savage's mantra:
"I reject your reality and substitute it with my own." Something along that line.....
Some people just make too much sense sometimes. Might be blasphemy to the fan-boys of high tech lubricants, however, it's hard to ague against the truth.
I guess, when presented with harsh realities, they can always resort to Adam Savage's mantra:
"I reject your reality and substitute it with my own." Something along that line.....
I dont think there is any factual or anecdotal proof out there that proves or disproves that exotic synthetics have any benefit in small engine. Lots of small engines have been run for a long time on conventional oil. Same for franken brews and exitic synthetic.
I think it more come down to the cost and feel good factor. How much do you want to pay for what gives you piece of mind.
Run it if you want and give us the butt dyno ear tunner report.
I think it more come down to the cost and feel good factor. How much do you want to pay for what gives you piece of mind.
Run it if you want and give us the butt dyno ear tunner report.
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I'm using quarts of the previous generation Mobil 1 Racing 0W30 in just the applications you are considering. No drawbacks that I could find.
ZDDP is more than car oil in that one. 1800 ppm of phosphorus. TBN in the 12 to 13 range. I used it in a Generac 15K air cooled generator. Am using it in a 10K Subaru Robin air cooled generator, a Cub Cadet riding mower with a Kawasaki engine and a 3 wheeled, Cushman Police Truckster (meter maid vehicle). It gets my recommendation for any engine that recommends using a 30 wt oil. The stuff I bought was only $2/qt at a Autoparts clearance. The current Mobil 1 Racing 0W30 costs in the $10/ qt range.
ZDDP is more than car oil in that one. 1800 ppm of phosphorus. TBN in the 12 to 13 range. I used it in a Generac 15K air cooled generator. Am using it in a 10K Subaru Robin air cooled generator, a Cub Cadet riding mower with a Kawasaki engine and a 3 wheeled, Cushman Police Truckster (meter maid vehicle). It gets my recommendation for any engine that recommends using a 30 wt oil. The stuff I bought was only $2/qt at a Autoparts clearance. The current Mobil 1 Racing 0W30 costs in the $10/ qt range.
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Your OPE will run forever on Rotella or DELO 10W30. If you expect sudden ultra-hardcore use like the Florida scenario mentioned above, use Rotella, DELO, or Delvac 5/15W-40.
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